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Thanks. I'm securing the camchain with zip ties to maintain timing and i think that's the reason the caps don't seat properly. I am afraid to force them by tightening the bolts... Should i tight everything and then put the cam chain?
Nope...if the cam chain tensioner not installed yet you lay the chain with the slack towards the the rear of the motor towards the tensioner...tighten everything down making sure the chain does not move so the timing would be off ..then the last thing is to reinstall the tensioner ....
 

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I know this is an old thread, good job on the DYI, but the one thing I disagree with is using a magnet to remove the buckets. You can magnitize the buckets, the exact spot you don't want metal filings to be attracted to. Between the cam lobe and bucket. The manual tells you to use a suction cup for that reason.
 

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For those that do not want to look up the part numbers here they are :
Valve cover gasket : 1RC-11193-00-00
Tentsioner Gasket : 1RC-12213-00-00
Coolant drain bolt washer : 90430-06014-00
And for those that want to see the cam chain to be sure its tight ( I would recommend this )oil pump cover gasket : 1RC-15456-00-00..now if you do this and the bike is sitting upright there will be a bit of oil on this side...when reinstalling the gasket ..even though I had mine completely clean it still leaked oil ..so I removed the cover and put some Honda liquid gasket sealer (That I had laying around) on both engine side and cover side and no more leak .Then wipe off what squeezed out with a rag B4 it sets up.. Just a heads up here...
Also would be a good time for new coolant.....
 

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I myself used a new one and applied some gorilla glue in spots to keep it attached to the valve cover .. cheep insurance getting a new one ! The old may or may not seal its a 50/50 kinda thing !
 

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I myself used a new one and applied some gorilla glue in spots to keep it attached to the valve cover .. cheep insurance getting a new one ! The old may or may not seal its a 50/50 kinda thing !
Gorrila glue? How do you intend to get that off next time you need to change the gasket? A little wheel grease is usually more than enough to hold a gasket in place, but I don't have any experience with this specific one yet.
 

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Gorrila glue? How do you intend to get that off next time you need to change the gasket? A little wheel grease is usually more than enough to hold a gasket in place, but I don't have any experience with this specific one yet.
Just in spots not around the whole gasket ! Lol ..But I do not know what the factory used because it was hell getting the old one off !!
 

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Just in spots not around the whole gasket ! Lol ..But I do not know what the factory used because it was hell getting the old one off !!
I've been working on engines since I was a kid, and I can say from my personal experience that even if you put nothing on the gasket next time it could be stuck like it was glued on. I've never found anything (besides the nice silicon rubber gaskets) that will reliably result in an easy gasket removal next time the parts have to come off.
 

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I don't know if it works on rubber gaskets that sit for years, but a thin film of engine oil on the orings and paper gaskets on my old TZ let them come off with no drama during maintenance checks.
 

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Just did my check (at 39k kms). All exhaust valves out of spec, intake is getting tight... glad I checked now. I would suggest doing this sooner rather than later.

Specs should be E .26-.30 I .11-.20, mine were:

Cyl 1
E .18 / .20
I .11 / .13

Cyl 2
E .19/.20
I .11/.13

Cyl 3
E .23/.23
I .12/.12
 

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Just did my check (at 39k kms). All exhaust valves out of spec, intake is getting tight... glad I checked now. I would suggest doing this sooner rather than later.

Specs should be E .26-.30 I .11-.20, mine were:

Cyl 1
E .18 / .20
I .11 / .13

Cyl 2
E .19/.20
I .11/.13

Cyl 3
E .23/.23
I .12/.12
Was this your first check ?
 
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