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When i line up the mark at BTDC (half arrow) the cam lobes on cylinder 1 don't point away from each other. The punch marks on cylinder 2 cam lobes line up though. Can i remove and reinstall it the same way it is now? Thank you!
I realize I'm replying to a 6mo old comment but in case anyone else comes across this thread... That half arrow mark is for BTDC - and yeah, you'll see the punch marks on the cams as well and know you're good.
 

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Video documenting the process in case I forget how to put anything back together, and thought I'd throw it up on youtube and share here in case anyone is interested in the process. I wasn't planning on uploading so it's definitely very amateur, but might help someone. :D

 

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Can I get a sanity check to make sure I'm doing this correctly, and should I bother touching the intake since it's technically still in spec (but on the tight end)?

Yamaha Spec .26-.30
Exhaust Clearance
0.18​
0.20​
0.19​
0.20​
0.23​
0.23​
Exhaust Shim
180​
179​
181​
182​
181​
181​
New Shim
170​
170​
170​
170​
175​
175​
Expected Clearance
0.28​
0.29​
0.28​
0.26​
0.29​
0.29​

Yamaha Spec .11-.20
Intake Clearance
0.11​
0.13​
0.11​
0.13​
0.12​
0.12​
Intake Shim
196​
195​
195​
194​
196​
195​
New Shim
190​
190​
190​
190​
190​
190​
Expected Clearance
0.18​
0.17​
0.19​
0.18​
0.17​
0.18​

*Update - I finished up with these shims and I'm pretty sure a couple were off (didn't have a micrometer to double check) so after I got everything back together and re-checked clearances, a couple of the intakes were even tighter, so I went one size smaller for each and when I reassembled for the 2nd time everything checked out. Got the motor back together, flushed my rad fluid, and went for a test rip in 4°C and had the most giant smile on my face when I got back.

 

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Question here ... Why you can not just retract the CCT and leave it connected to the motor ? I'm I missing something ?
Ya unfortunately for the stock cct to get it to retract you need to push against the spring loaded part with your hand while turning it with the hex to get it to retract. Just turning the hex key without pushing just free spins it.
 

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Just got my bike and am a long way from needing to check valves, just in here familiarizing myself with things. Is it required to remove the cams to access the shims, or is it possible to get at them using a shim tool to depress the buckets?

Sure would save a lot of grief with not having to pull the cct or having to re-time the cams.

Office supplies Eyewear Bicycle part Font Auto part
 

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Hey Shinyribs, this method sounds like Heaven on a stick to me, my current ride is a 2015 Ducati Multistrada with the DVT and Desmo valves, that is a bit of a challenge to do the shims for the first time. The shims under buckets is not a new idea, I have a 1973 Kawasaki KZ 650 with the shims under the buckets. The theory being that it is very hard to spit a shim out at high revs with them being under the buckets, (well that's what I was told). Just make sure of your measurements, like measure several times before removing the cam-shafts. Another tip I have been taught was to actually measure the old shims with a micrometer to make sure that they are exactly what they are stamped.
 

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unsure whether to ask here or make a new thread.

I marked my chain/sprocket to be sure.

I removed the CCT, and the exhaust cam moved slightly no longer on the marking, 1 tooth past to be precise. The intake was still fine.

Checked all the shim sizes etc etc, just waiting on them to arrive.

Had a good at re-installing but the camshaft doesn't seem to want to adhere to the markings between intake and exhaust. ie the chain seems too tight for it, is that just because it was the CCT that was holding it in place before? I can make them both fit just about but if I let go then they escape out the sprocket.

I double checked the generator cover, still BTDC.

Or realistically does where the chain go back not really matter as long as it's under the correct tension? The manual doesn't seem to mention the camchain position at all.

I know it mattered when I did the Ducati belts.

edit:

Saw this, FZ09 valve clearance – Ramiro

CRITICAL PART section seems to state basically hold it all into place with zip ties.

edit2:

hmm no matter what I did it just wouldn't fit, ended up removing the lower timing cover and just turned out the chain needed moving along slight(DO NOT MOVE THE CRANK), all fitted in the end and retensioned.

funnily enough I havent even replaced the shims yet since am still waiting, just wanted to get the practice in.
 

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I recall having to loosen the camshaft caps just a bit in order to properly align the cams back on the correct spot on the chain, then popped the tensioner, and then tightened the caps. This was almost 2 years ago though so I don't know if I'm remembering correctly, but there was some kind of trick like that.
 

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hmm putting everything back together, and then rotating the engine several times, thankfully no contact between valves and pistons. I take it if I rotate the engine manually, when it comes to running it, as long as tension is decent, it'll run fine?

but when on the triangle generator sign. the exhaust cam is out by a little bit, i'd hazard a guess by 1 tooth. so probably just need to move it forward 1 tooth.
 

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unsure whether to ask here or make a new thread.

I marked my chain/sprocket to be sure.

I removed the CCT, and the exhaust cam moved slightly no longer on the marking, 1 tooth past to be precise. The intake was still fine.

Checked all the shim sizes etc etc, just waiting on them to arrive.

Had a good at re-installing but the camshaft doesn't seem to want to adhere to the markings between intake and exhaust. ie the chain seems too tight for it, is that just because it was the CCT that was holding it in place before? I can make them both fit just about but if I let go then they escape out the sprocket.

I double checked the generator cover, still BTDC.

Or realistically does where the chain go back not really matter as long as it's under the correct tension? The manual doesn't seem to mention the camchain position at all.

I know it mattered when I did the Ducati belts.

edit:

Saw this, FZ09 valve clearance – Ramiro

CRITICAL PART section seems to state basically hold it all into place with zip ties.

edit2:

hmm no matter what I did it just wouldn't fit, ended up removing the lower timing cover and just turned out the chain needed moving along slight(DO NOT MOVE THE CRANK), all fitted in the end and retensioned.

funnily enough I havent even replaced the shims yet since am still waiting, just wanted to get the practice in.
I have found it's best to have the lower cover off so that you can see there is no slack in the timing chain on the front side. If you do have chain slack on the front it is NOT positioned correctly . And yes zip ties are a must !
 

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hmm putting everything back together, and then rotating the engine several times, thankfully no contact between valves and pistons. I take it if I rotate the engine manually, when it comes to running it, as long as tension is decent, it'll run fine?

but when on the triangle generator sign. the exhaust cam is out by a little bit, i'd hazard a guess by 1 tooth. so probably just need to move it forward 1 tooth.
I would confirm that your timing is correct by checking the timing marks and the cam lobe locations.

*disclaimer, I am not a mechanic
 
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