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Thats awesome that you actually got a bracket from him! Last time worked out a parts order with him it took 14 months to get most of my parts and he still didn't send all of of them at that not to mention they didn't fit properly. Live and learn.
It was extremely hard to get a hold of him and it took 3 weeks but as far as fitment, it fit pretty good. That's a bummer it took so long for you to get your parts. What route are you gunna go with as far as the rear handbrake setup? As far as that triple clamp your making is that just for your bike or would you be possibly making a couple to sell?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
So the drain plug cracking the oil pan all the time is a no go for me. I will eventually make a custom oil pan for the bike with a different location of the oil drain. I have to start testing the bike soon so I cant take the engine down for this long at the time.

Here is the drain plug that i found with the same specs as the FZ but a nice flush mount allen head instead.



I don't want to drop the OEM oil till I hit 200 miles so I laid the bike on the side almost until the rear brake pedal was touching the ground and rested the handlebar end on a PA speaker.



With little blood spared out with the old in with the new.



I shaved the fin with the die grinder down until just above flush and polished up with a flap disk extending the radius further forward to keep a sleek angle.



Finally found a Vision LED headlight to replace the OEM one.



Wow... It looks mean. Will work great as a front number plate as well.



Ferocious... but I didn't like the clear lenses on the headlight so I pulled it and went to the store to grab some Rid Dye.



I had done this on a model airplane windshield one time but I am not quite sure how this will work out on a thicker plastic but I figured I would give it a try. I got the water to a rolling boil and poured the hot water into a new drain pain. I put the full bottle of Blue Dye into the hot water and once it hit 200 degrees I put the head light lens in the pan. I covered it with foil and I will let it sit overnight. I will see how much the color takes in the morning.

 
Super sick build! Giving me alot of ideas here man
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
After removing all of the smog junk I had to tie up a few loose ends. I could of just capped the T's but decided to go direct to the vacuums on the throttle bodies. I decided to use clear at the moment over black just out of curiosity to see if I would see any fuel residue of any kind.



While I had the tank off and was looking at some of the routing and spacing I decided that instead of ditching the horn I would just run it on a momentary button on the bar and tuck the horn inside the left cowl. Wiring to come but it need to go pick up the right ID heat shrink.


I will be making a separate thread on "How to" disable the tip over sensor/Bank angle sensor but that was also on the to do list today.

First Removing the Tip over sensor


The weighted for the sensor that needs to be disabled is inside this little box. After pushing in both tabs the connector slides out of the sensor body quite nicely.



After looking at the inner workings of it it was a very simple design. Instead of trying to find the proper resistance to jumper the connector and completely remove the sensor I decided to glue it. I know it seems pretty half ass but I have done it before and it works great.


This is what the actual moving magnet looks like.


While placing the sensor assembly on the flat workbench and leveling out the sensor to the riding upright position I glued the little guy in place.


Flipped it over and did the same.


After I let it dry for a half hour I slid it back into its outer body and click it went.


Installing it back in the factory position for now but I will no longer be mouse trapping wheelies when the sensor makes the bike shut off!!!


Turned the key started the beast up and all systems go. No dummy lights to be seen.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
After I took care of of the tip over sensor I felt that the mis match tires where not cutting it.

I grabbed a new Bridgestone R10 to mount up but realized that I don't own a 14mm allen socket. Improvisation set in and I made my own out of an old F4i subframe bolt.



While the front wheel was off this little guy decided to jump on the fork.

 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I'm loving watching this build progress. How did the headlight lense turn out?
It didn't turn out quite as I had hoped. It barely took any color. So I looked around and found that Testors makes a translucent blue spray paint. I will be painting the inside of the lens with that this week.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Please excuse my ignorance but what's the reason for disabling the bank angle sensor ?
On most model bikes with a bank angle sensors they can cause problems and make the bike shit off when in wheelies at high angles. It has sent me over the bars pretty visicously before so I disable all of them now.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Went riding all day yesterday on a Scrambler test ride and ended up getting a later start today but got quite a few parts that where on the bench all buttoned up.

GPR Stabilizer and Clamp assembly without the new bars yet. I ran into a bar length control mounting problem so until I find another set with the proper length 7/8 area I will still be running the OE Bars.



Some think that all freestyle bikes need a crash cage but those giant bird cages add a lot of weight and often hinder the available lead angle. This is going to be my tip over solution for this season. T-Rex Frame sliders combined with the GBRacing Engine case cover protectors.





Here is the side profile.


Also swapped out the boat anchor bar ends with the T-Rex Aluminum bar ends.


The brakes on this thing are going to be so on point. Just got a set of the new EBC Vee Rotors in 10mm larger than OEM.


When I was putting the new rotors and caliper spacers on I couldn't get over the fact that the FZ has steel wheel spacers. I will measure them out and will cut some new aluminum ones in the Lathe this week.
 
So with the GPR looks like it only raises the bars 1/4 inch ! great pick of it , by the way the talk on this went I was thinking it raised it a lot higher... great stuff on the bike you are doing..
 
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