Yamaha FZ-09 Forum banner

Replacing left hand controls with tracer gt control.

8.2K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  psycoreefer  
#1 · (Edited)
So this is going to be a breif and poorly organized write up of what I did to get a tracer GT (2019) left control switch wired up and working on my 2016 XSR 900. At the same time I also replaced my headlight with an aftermarket one, added in a Smart Turn Signal unit, and added a relay for the headlight, so understand you may not need to follow all the same steps I did.

I went this route for a couple of reasons:
1. After 10k miles I was still hitting the horn button by accident
2. I want to add cruise control eventually in the future, and I wanted factory looking buttons rather than an add-on block of buttons.
3. My stock controls got full of dirt and even after disassembly and cleaning they simply didn't work very well anymore. Gritty and sticky instead of smooth so new switches were in order anyways.

Upfront I'll say that if I had to do it over again I might not use tracer GT switches. The Tracer GT has LED headlights and a 'headlight control' module which means that the headlight switch is designed for low amperage (to trigger a relay) rather than to feed a 60 Watt headlight directly. The switches off of a Super Tenere or some other bike with 'regular' headlights might be simpler, if you don't want the cruise buttons then the switches off of a regular Tracer (or basically any other bike) would work too. To work around the headlight switch issue I added a standard automotive relay.

Furthermore I'll state that after spending the first 15 years of my motorcycle ownership life working on a variety of older used bikes I absolutly despise anyone who modifies the main factory wire harness. With that in mind you'll notice that all my modifications were done on the 'switch' side of the wiring, so going back to stock for myself or anyone in the future should be as simple as unplugging my mod'd out switches and plugging in the correct 2016 XSR units from yamaha.

Preview of the finished product.
Image
 
#2 · (Edited)
So step one was to map out which wires did what things. Pictures of my hand written notes below, but an easier to read typed summary will go here:

I started by cutting the 'plug' off of the old switch leaving several inches of wire so that I could attach the wires from the new switch. Do not cut the wires that lead up to the clutch safety switch, you'll need to leave these intact.
Image


Old Switch

Image


New Switch:

Image


And then finally writing down what I believe the proper connections would be based on the information gathered. Notice at this point I'd realized my mistake - that the headlight was going to require a relay and so the headlight wires are mapped to the standard poles on a relay.
Image
 
#3 · (Edited)
I personally prefer to verify my work, so here is a picture showing how I simply 'strip and twist' the wires for each particular function. In the picture below I'm testing the 'mode' and 'TCS' buttons.
Notice that I didn't cut or modify the factory plug on the 'bike' side. I've plugged into that using factory plug that was cut off from the old switch block.
You can see that I've twisted together the 'old plug' pink wire to the 'new plug' white with green stripe wire.
The blue tape is painters tape that i used to mark wires based on their function - all the TCS wires are taped together and labeled 'TCS'.
I did this same thing for all the buttons (headlight, horn, turn signals).

After function was verified then the wires were soldered and heat-shink wrapped to make the final connections. I don't have any pictures of this because I'm lazy and forgetful. This isn't my preferred method, so I may revisit this in the future. I generally like to solder on terminals that will 'fit' in the factory plugs for a very 'factory' fit and finish.

Image
 
#4 · (Edited)
I had to add some wiring because:
1. I wanted to put the Smart turn signal unit in the 'storage tray' area at the back of the bike
2. I needed to put in a relay to run the headlight for reasons already mentioned.

I keep a few spools of different color wire around. I kept the factory colors where possible to make it easier to keep track of what wires were for what purpose. I also grouped the wires into bundles by twisting them together. One bundle is for the headlight relay, one for the connections from the STS module to the controls and the other for the connections from the STS module to the signals themselves. All of this could have maybe been cramed into the headlight shell, or possibly into the frame under/around the airbox, but I wanted to be able to access the relay and STS module more easily in case of future issues.

I purchased looming supplies on amazon, some 'expandable' plastic type loom, and some heavy duty nylon solid loom. The heavy duty nylon stuff was to try and match what the factory used for the 'open' section between the frame and headlight shell.

Wires cut to length twisted and ready for looming:
Image


Expandable loom terminated with some heat shrink to keep thing neat and tidy.
Image


Final location of the headlight relay and STS module in the underseat storage tray.
Image


New wires with heavy duty nylon loom in the neck area. Factory loom is on top, new loom underneath it.
Image


New loom routed along the same path as the factory loom, under the airbox along side the right frame.
Image
 
#8 ·
I had to add some wiring because:
1. I wanted to put the Smart turn signal unit in the 'storage tray' area at the back of the bike
I have the Smart Turn module on my bike and I love it. I wasn't enthusiastic about cutting into the wiring but I've done enough general electrical and wiring that I felt comfortable. I used the clips because I wanted to make sure the Smart Turn worked reliably before I soldered it in and shrink wrapped it. I'm a few months in now and it's worked flawlessly. It's a big safety item for me as I've not turned the signal off a few times and other vehicles assumed I was going to turn. This fixes that. Give us your review on it.
 
#9 ·
I promised to post these tracer diagrams, couldn't find them anywhere online myself.
 

Attachments