I need to get one, mine is real loud when I start it and gets quiet like it should, but it's way louder than it was and I don't trust it. Almost at 6k miles and it was a leftover 14. Gonna get a clutch cable at the same time to cover all possible issues.

 

Hey guys, quick question...

I installed my APE manual CCT tonight and I was able to get rid of that terrible ticking sound around 4k RPM that I previously had. However, I now have a faint version of that chattering around 3500-3600 RPM. I believe I have my tension set correctly but I'm not sure if I may have gone too tight or not tight enough? It's also possible that it's fine and I'm just hearing things in the process of trying to get it exactly right. Any feedback is appreciated.

Also a special thank you to Marthy for putting together this DIY... without it, I know I would not have attempted to do this install. Great thread and a great community member!

 

Is it clutch rattle you can now hear? Pull the clutch and if the noises changes or goes away its clutch rattle you can now hear. Seems pretty common and nothing to worry about.
What's the go with the clutch cable as mentioned above? Never heard any problems with them myself

 

That's possible... I'll double check later today when I get back home. I will add... it sounds fine from idle/neutral when I rev it up, I don't really hear it, but when I'm cruising along and the engine is under load, I notice the sound more.

 

I am going to be attempting this install tonight but I have a few questions. My first question is: Can anyone confirm whether or not you have to drain the engine oil first before this install? Also, to minimize on room for error has anyone just zip tied the Cam chain together so it can't skip a tooth during the removal of the oem CCT and install of the APE? Lastly, if I make sure that the cam chain doesn't skip a tooth is it still a requirement to spin the engine with the 19mm socket? Or can I just feel the slack of the oem tensioner and match it with the APE before starting the bike back up. I've only got 2100 miles on this bike and the chain is slapping pretty hard, and I understand this is a pretty simple install but I just want to make sure I have everything in order before I start it.
I really appreciate any info that might help. Thanks so much!!!!

 

You don't need to drain the oil. Do the job on the kick-stand and none will leak out. put it on a track stand, and you will get some dripping out.

You don't need to zip-tie the chain, marthy's method works fine. (I think i used a small socket wrapped in a shop towel).

If you match the slack up with the stock tensioner, you'll probably need to adjust it slightly tighter for a couple of reasons. 1), your chain is slapping now, so logic says it would slap if you tensioned it exactly the same. 2) the stock tensioner uses oil pressure for the "fine tuning" adjustment, and when you are feeling the current tension there is no oil pressure.

You will probably notice the stock bolts come out hard, this is due to locktite on them. Reuse the stock bolts, as the ones I got with my APE tensioner seemed like they weren't an exact fit. ymmv

 

Thank you so much. With Marthy's diy and this extra information I think this install will be a breeze. Thanks again!

 

Ok so I got the APE tensioner in but I still have about an inch or more of the adjuster sticking out of the top and I'm having a hell of a time trying to get it screwed most of the way in. Does anyone have a guesstimate of how many threads you should be able to see just as a starting point before you start the bike up?

 

In order to be able to put in you need to unscrew the adjuster all the way, bolt it to the engine and then put tension on the chain. If you do it like I did and check the tension on the chain you should be fine.

 

I really appreciate all the help! I got the APE installed finally. At first I think it was a little bit too tight then I backed it out a bit and it wanted to stall pretty easily in 1st. I tightened it back up a little bit and it seems to be working!

 

Hey guys I just installed the ape cct following marthys instructions. I have a question thought, how would you know if the timing chain skipped teeth?
I started the bike after installation and everything sounds good test drove it and it's powerful us usual but when I rev the engine one out of ten times on initial throttle twist I hear one metallic knocking sound and it's only once it doesn't repeat or anything. So I'm not sure if is my mind playing games with me or what? Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you Loukas The Greek

 

Missing any tools? [emoji23]

You should be fine

 

Lol no all tools are on my tool kit[emoji1]

 

So if you jam a plier between the tensioner and the motor casing, that mean that you don't need to put on the engine on tdc since the tension is never removed from the chain?

 

I found that if you put a little oil on the APE tensioner shaft (i.e. the threaded/shouldered part that goes through the body of the tensioner) it helps make it a lot easier to turn the tensioner with my fingers. There appears to be a large rubber gasket around shaft. When dry that rubber gasket creates a lot of drag.

 

right, you don't HAVE to find TDC. I do recall seeing somewhere in here that there is a certain point in rotation where you'll have the MOST slack in the cam chain. That's the point where you need to adjust the tension at. I had a 2nd set of hands so i had the helper spin the engine slowly as i checked tension all the way thru

 

I think that the setup on the FZ-09 is very similar to that found on the SuperTenere (another CrossPlane crank with the ill fated, stroke of genius failing CCT). I replaced the CCT with an APE on the Tenere when I adjusted the valves. I seems that it would be hard to get it out of time with any tension at all on the cam chain. On the Tenere, when you tighten the cams down, they tell you to zip tie the cam gear to the chain in two places as there is spring tension from the valves on the cams as a result of the cross plane design. Even so, my chain jumped a tooth with the CCT out of the bike. With the cams buttoned down and the CCT off, I really doubt that I could have made it skip out of time (which is also why it was such fun to get the chain back onto the cam gears in time in the first place...very little extra play. Anyway...I'm pissed at Mother Yamaha for making me spend the money on the APE, but now that it's done, I'm more comfortable.

My FZ-09 was fine for 9151 miles. Then, yesterday I left work early on an absolutely beautiful blue sky day. I was really, really needing a decompression ride but when I started the bike I heard CCT noise. It didn't go away and got worse as I rode. I gingerly rode home and today installed the APE that I had bought for this predicted occasion. A bit over an hour and 15 min taking my time.

The only tip that I'd add is that once I got the CCT adjustment right using Marthy's method (make it tight, back it off a half turn), fine tuning was really easy with the engine running. At the 1/2 turn mark, I could begin to hear a rattle, a tiny bit further and I could feel it nastily through the allen key, tighten until it felt smooth (1/8 turn tight from the original 1/2 turn back off). I did the same thing on my Tenere (tighten just until the noise goes away). I did also add a screwdriver wedged under the lower/bottom right chain guard just for kicks.

 

Used the guide to install my ape cct today, thanks marthy!

 

i just really don't want to remove the damn cover. annoying we even have to deal with this BS.

 

It's a piece of cake. Just make sure you pull the dowel out of the cover and stick it in the guide (you'll know what I mean when you see it) and wedge something between the guide and the case to keep the chain from slipping. Torque the cover bolts to 8.7 ft-lbs when done. I didn't mess with lining up the timing marks.

 

Mine came off in one piece with the cover. I reused it and it's fine.

 

Can anyone confirm what size the jam nut is? Is it an 18mm or 11/16"? My 17mm wrenches didn't fit and my 19mm was too big.

 

11/16"

 

Thanks, I had a sneaking suspicion it was a mixed bag of metric and standard.

 

Here's the gasket part #

 

I don't think my bike even makes noise due to the cct, but after reading this entire thread one comment at a time, I ended up buying one for $80 on fleeBay since Stoltec is out of stock. Seems like it might be a good thing to have for the "inevitable" situation that will arise ... only around 700 miles on the clock right now, I'm sure the stock cct will fault eventually. Seems easy enough to install. Although I do feel like Yamaha should be paying for it!

 

It is well worth the small financial investment and easy to install but please review Marthys' instructional post before you start turning wrenches!
I had no problem spending a lot of money on my suspension but forking out a few bucks for the CCT really annoyed me!

 

I have 6000 miles on mine and still no problem....

 

I doubt there's anything wrong with mine now, the other thing is the loud exhaust I have, so I don't even know if I could hear it if it was rattling/making noise. The paranoia of what could happen got to me a little I guess. I figure oh well ... might put it on this winter or something when I have some time.

 

I couldn't hear mine failing while riding, only when free revving it...what was noticeable while riding were the increased vibrations between 3-5k RPM.

It's amazing how much smoother the bike feels once you get the APE adjusted correctly.

 

Just installed this today ... thanks Marthy for your write-up, definitely made things easier not having to guess and struggle. I had not yet noticed any unusual noise coming from my stock cct - 2015 model - but I bought the APE cct as a precautionary measure and figured since I had some time today and it's cold out, might as well warm up the bike and then install the APE one. The problem I had was that I couldn't notice much of a change in noise despite how much I would turn the adjuster screw in or out while the bike was running. I kept waiting to hear a rattling noise while I was turning it counter-clockwise, but never did ... all I noticed when I would tighten the adjuster down a lot was it would kind of change the idle of the bike just a bit, like it was putting more pressure on the motor or something.

Anyway, basically ended up making it loose, making sure there was play in the chain, then turning the adjuster screw down 1/4 turn at a time, until I couldn't move the chain side to side anymore, then backed it off 1/2 turn and called it good. The bike sounds normal from what I can hear, and I took it for a ride and everything seems okay. So in the end I don't know if it's perfect, but I'm sure it's close. I had to put the silencer in my Akro TI and hold the clutch in so I could really listen to the cct on the bike ... there are lots of noises in that engine that can make what appear to "ticking" noises - the clutch being one of them.

So hopefully it's okay, I will just keep an eye on things and keep my ear peeled for sound changes down there.

Thanks again Marthy and for all who provided helpful tips along the way. Cheers -

I was able to use the screws that came with the APE cct, althought it definitely was a snug fit getting them turned in all the way .. so I would probably use the stock screws if I did it again. I replaced the side cover gasket and used the APE gasket that came with the cct, although I don't think I needed to use either one, the stock ones were in fine shape. I actually did more harm than good trying to get the stock side cover gasket off. Had to pull out a scraper and some sandpaper to get it all off and make the surface smooth. And the cover itself came off smoothly, so I would say just leave the stock one on there. Same with the stock cct gasket.

And I didn't mess with the timing marks and stuff on the left side of the motor ... just wedged some pliers between the chain guide and case to keep some tension on it. But I don't think it's a waste of time lining up the marks. I could definitely see how a tooth could get skipped pretty easily if you didn't keep enough tension on it while swapping the cct.

Here is a picture showing the APE installed. This is locked down after I tightened the adjuster until the chain was immobile, then backed it off 1/2 turn ... so this is the height it ended up at.

 

all I noticed when I would tighten the adjuster down a lot was it would kind of change the idle of the bike just a bit, like it was putting more pressure on the motor or something.

were you using an allen key to turn the adjuster? if the idle changes, it's too tight. i turn the adjuster with my fingers only - reason being, you can only turn it in so far with your fingers before it simply stops. an allen key gives you the leverage to turn it in too far.

i put a dot on the adjuster with a paint pen for easy visual reference, and with the engine idling turn it ~1/4 turn out from where it stops (bare fingers). if i turn it out another ~1/16, i can hear the cam chain start to make noise, so i leave it at ~1/4 turn out from 'full in'.

about 14k miles on the ape, no issues.

 

Oh, and before I forget to ask ... is there a right/wrong position to install the ape cct? As in the letters "ape" stamped on the cct, does it matter if those are toward the top of the bike or toward the ground when it's installed?? I didn't even think about that, I just installed it with the letters facing up (top of the cct) but I guess it's possible there could have been an oil hole in the shaft or something that needs to point a certain way ... :/

 

it makes no difference

 

Welcome Mate!

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