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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
There's is probably more than one way to install your APE CCT but this is the way I think it would be the safest to get the job done.

First thing to do is to unwrap your APE CCT and make sure the adjuster goes in and out freely (4mm allen). Then unwind the adjuster all the way to allow it to go in the engine and clear the frame.

1. Remove the LH side engine case cap using a 14mm allen socket (same as front wheel) and remove the 6mm bolt with a 5mm allen. A 19mm socket is required to turn the engine over CCW. Turn until the timing marks line up inside the small hole




2. Use some tape to protect the frame over the CCT. First remove the inner bolt, toward the middle of the engine.



3. Here I will suggest you to go an extra step. Removing the RH side cover will make sure the chain doesn't skip a tooth and it will make it much easier to adjust the chain. I use my plier and some duct tape on the tip of the pliers to gently wedge between the engine case and the CCT slider.




4. You can now remove the last bolt from the CCT.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
5. It is now time to slide your APE CCT in. Make sure the adjuster is all the way out. It won't go it if not all the way out. You can use the 2 bolts to hold the gasket in place then make sure the adjuster sit against the engine properly and start the bolts by hand and tight them up.




Now here's the most critical part. There's a fair amount of drag on the CCT thread and getting a feel of when it touch is a bit tricky. The way I did it was by moving the timing chain on the slider until it get tight (you can now remove the pliers from holding the slider). When you get to that point stop and spin the engine with the ratchet keeping track of the chain play.




Our bike are relatively new now so the chain should not be stretch too much with a lot of variation. Once you feel happy with it back up the adjuster 1/2 turn as APE instruction says. If you move the adjuster and not the nut... 3 flat = 1/2 turn.

All you have left is to bring the jam nut against the adjuster and tight it up. Make sure the adjuster do not move. Keep holding the adjuster with the allen key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
All pretty much done now. Install the cover back on and don't forget to reinstall the end cap and timing mark bolt on the other side... nothing worse than hitting the starter button with the ratchet still in place!

Start the bike and pay attention to the cam chain noise... shouldn't have any by now

Hope it help. Like I said at the beginning, there's more than one way to do it.
 

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Should have mine in a few days. Thanks for the write-up Marthy. I'm sure it'll be invaluable in getting this thing installed. I'll post up progress if I have any experiences different than yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A new engne cover gasket came with the CCT? Wow, them's some good folk at APE!
It comes with the CCT gasket only, not the side case. Might be a good thing to get one while you wait to get your CCT. Mine didn't break and I reused it.
 

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Thanks Marthy!

Pretty easy and straight forward, I would add that it would be good to have of stubby allens to make accessing the #5 allen that hold down the cct easier.

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes XJ, I had to cut one off a bit to have better access to the adjuster.

The Fizzer kit does a great job on keeping the hydraulic adjuster to back off, good band aid on a poor design.

The APE CCT is a good old school adjuster that will never fail. Just a long bolt that rest on the cam chain guide and it never move unless you decide otherwise. LOL

Just to do the math here, I change mine on my FZ6R 3 time now in its 46K miles life. Once it start to get noisy, it goes out and get replace by a new one. At $75.00 a pop is quite a lot of money for something I shouldn't have to replace in the first place. Time will tell how good the Fizzer kit will be but for about $90.00 you can fix the problem once and for all. Some here have to park their bike for weeks if not months because they are waiting on Yamaha to bring an upgrade... I rather spend the $$$ and ride.

YAMAHAZONE...
 

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Yes XJ, I had to cut one off a bit to have better access to the adjuster.

The Fizzer kit does a great job on keeping the hydraulic adjuster to back off, good band aid on a poor design.

The APE CCT is a good old school adjuster that will never fail. Just a long bolt that rest on the cam chain guide and it never move unless you decide otherwise. LOL

Just to do the math here, I change mine on my FZ6R 3 time now in its 46K miles life. Once it start to get noisy, it goes out and get replace by a new one. At $75.00 a pop is quite a lot of money for something I shouldn't have to replace in the first place. Time will tell how good the Fizzer kit will be but for about $90.00 you can fix the problem once and for all. Some here have to park their bike for weeks if not months because they are waiting on Yamaha to bring an upgrade... I rather spend the $$$ and ride.

YAMAHAZONE...

What is this bit about???

IMPORTANT: WHEN REPLACING ANY HYDRAULIC OEM TENSIONER WITH A MANUAL TENSIONER, IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE OIL PASSAGE THAT SUPPLIED THE OEM TENSIONER IS BLOCKED OFF. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN A LOW OIL PRESSURE SITUATION.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Some bike have CCT issues, timming chain bouncing around until the oil psi load the cam chain tensionner. Yam are on their 3rd version already... The fizzer kit is simply a M6 set screw, nut and plastic washer that keep the adkuster from backing off. Work well but doesn't fix a defective CCT.

What happen is the screw that preload inside the oem cct back off and the tensionner loose his tention at start up. And some get worst than others. Was the same with some FZ6 back in the days from what I heard.

The APE adjuster is a manual adjuster. You need to keep an eye on it but if the chain start to be noisy at start up all you need to do is had a little bit of preload and lock it up again for thousand of worry free happy miles.

The APE tensionner was design to cover the oil passage inside the bore where it fit.
 

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Some bike have CCT issues, timming chain bouncing around until the oil psi load the cam chain tensionner. Yam are on their 3rd version already... The fizzer kit is simply a M6 set screw, nut and plastic washer that keep the adkuster from backing off. Work well but doesn't fix a defective CCT.

What happen is the screw that preload inside the oem cct back off and the tensionner loose his tention at start up. And some get worst than others. Was the same with some FZ6 back in the days from what I heard.

The APE adjuster is a manual adjuster. You need to keep an eye on it but if the chain start to be noisy at start up all you need to do is had a little bit of preload and lock it up again for thousand of worry free happy miles.

The APE tensionner was design to cover the oil passage inside the bore where it fit.
Thanks..
 
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Nice detailed write up Marthy,

Am I wrong in thinking that the original CCT design was intended to utilize the oil passage in order to increase tension on the chain as the engine speed increases? A dynamic tensioner so to speak?

With the APE tensioner it seems that the timing chain receives a consistent amount of tension regardless of the engine speed or engine temp.

Perhaps Yamaha wanted to avoid a consistent amount of tension on the timing chain in order to avoid pre-mature wear due to the way the timing chain metal expands and contracts during its heat cycles?

The Ape design seems simple and straight forward, why would Yamaha choose to go a more complex route utilizing the varying oil pressures created while the engine is running?
 
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