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If this thread is going to be a stitcky, can we fix the title so "Suspension" is spelled correctly?
 
I've got an 07-08 zx6r rear shock on my bike. Drilled the lower hole out to 12mm. Linkage needs shaved down about 1-2mm to prevent the larger diameter spring from touching in the event of a "top-out". I don't see it happening but you never know when you'll come up on a big bump and get the rear tire off the ground a bit. The 07-08 rear shock has the same adjustments as the zx6rr shock everyone wants its just a lot easier to find and much cheaper. Got mine on eBay for $34 with free shipping.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I've got an 07-08 zx6r rear shock on my bike. Drilled the lower hole out to 12mm. Linkage needs shaved down about 1-2mm to prevent the larger diameter spring from touching in the event of a "top-out". I don't see it happening but you never know when you'll come up on a big bump and get the rear tire off the ground a bit. The 07-08 rear shock has the same adjustments as the zx6rr shock everyone wants its just a lot easier to find and much cheaper. Got mine on eBay for $34 with free shipping.
Updated!
 
This is on a 05-06 636, it has raised casting numbers but no red knob. He said it's high low speed adjustable so is this the same as zx6 or zx6rr? It's gonna be $30-40 local pickup so I would like to buy it if its the right one.





 
Marthy,

In my experience, and I may be wrong here, but suspension settings are measured from fully closed as a reference rather than fully open. Fully closed there is usually a tapered needle sitting in a bypass orifice that shuts it off completely when it's closed, and that is a reference. Fully open is typically where you run out of threads or adjustment.

Also, can the ZX10R shock be turned upside down so that the res is at the bottom of the forward mount? I've seen this with the ZX6RR one and I was wondering if the same holds true for the 10.

Is your fork oil measurement with the springs removed and the forks bottomed out against the dust seals? How low can you get the suspension to go before bottoming out with 130mm?

Thanks,
Dave

I'm 175 lbs without gears...

Rear
ZX-10 shock 9.1 kg/mm spring with 37mm sag.
LSB: All open (CCW)
HSB: 1.5T in from all open
REB: 1.25T in from all open

Front
.90 kg/mm springs with 38mm sag
130mm oil level 7W (track), 5W if street only
GP piston kit

Cold psi road F32/R32
Track F30/R27
 
Marthy,

In my experience, and I may be wrong here, but suspension settings are measured from fully closed as a reference rather than fully open. Fully closed there is usually a tapered needle sitting in a bypass orifice that shuts it off completely when it's closed, and that is a reference. Fully open is typically where you run out of threads or adjustment.

Also, can the ZX10R shock be turned upside down so that the res is at the bottom of the forward mount? I've seen this with the ZX6RR one and I was wondering if the same holds true for the 10.

Is your fork oil measurement with the springs removed and the forks bottomed out against the dust seals? How low can you get the suspension to go before bottoming out with 130mm?

Thanks,
Dave
You're right, I agree with you. But since there's no ultimate setup as a one fit for all and I ran the shock mostly all open... it was just easier.

As far as fork settings, yes as the manual recommend... spring out and fork all the way down, 130mm from the top works for me.
 
You're right, I agree with you. But since there's no ultimate setup as a one fit for all and I ran the shock mostly all open... it was just easier.

As far as fork settings, yes as the manual recommend... spring out and fork all the way down, 130mm from the top works for me.
Well, I wasn't being critical of your setup, but wanted to learn where you found your particular happy spot on the 10R shock with regard to fully closed (and for the suspension sticky)... and also if you know about the alternate orientation.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Picked up a 08 Zx6r shock from a guy at my local dealer for $50. Taking it to the local suspension "expert" to have it freshened up/rebuilt for another $120. Wish me luck, do you all advise drilling out the lower linkage or purchasing the proper hardware which is stated earlier in this thread??

Thanks
 
I'd love to see a list of the spring weights people ended up with on their other brand shocks. I'm thinking once I put a zx6r shock on my bike, I can't use the race tech calculator anymore? I'm 210 nekked and thinking I'm going to have to go heavier than the stock 08 zx6r spring.

Also has anyone tried melting the plastic tray and forming it to fit the reservoir, rather than trimming it?
 
I'd love to see a list of the spring weights people ended up with on their other brand shocks. I'm thinking once I put a zx6r shock on my bike, I can't use the race tech calculator anymore? I'm 210 nekked and thinking I'm going to have to go heavier than the stock 08 zx6r spring.

Also has anyone tried melting the plastic tray and forming it to fit the reservoir, rather than trimming it?
Brilliant!! I have an 08 zx6r shock on the way, looking to throw it on this coming weekend. I will most definitely give this a shot and post pictures if it works out as well as I hope it will.
 
2nd RH Fork Cartridge

2nd RH Fork Cartridge Project... Fairly happy with the results so I wanted to post it here as an option to help out for those who were contemplating a similar project.

Background-

1. As we know, the front suspension dampning isn't well sorted stock with only the RH forks containing effective dampning.
2. Forks are softly sprung with barely enough rebound adjustment for a lightweight rider, not enough low speed compression dampning and some harshness with high speed compression dampning.
3. I weigh 174# which means with gear 190-200# as full leathers/boots/helmet is right at 200# on the scale.
4. Goal is improved front end suspension for all around riding on the streets and occasional twisies... and out of curiosity I wanted to try something with a 2nd RH side cartridge on the LH Side.

Bike setup baseline
1. ZX10R rear shock with a lot of preload cranked in on the stock ZX10R spring, and 8mm higher ride height than stock unloaded and measured at the rear wheel.
2. Wheelbase shortened to the minimum which if I recall correctly is about 1430mm
3. Front end dropped 10mm from stock flush with top of outer tube.
4. Previous preload with 4 lines showing and rebound 1/8 turn from max
5. Preload on the stock 300mm spring is 8mm with the 120mm plastic spacer
6. Fluid level with spring at 120/118mm for LH/RH from factory (probably very close to the factory spec 148)... Fluid level sets bottoming out on the forks, and stock it was well over an inch from bottoming, also considering the soft spring and lack of compression dampning this will be adjusted.
7. With about 780 miles, fork fluid was very clean and clear. Spec for the stock Yamaha 01 fluid is 15.6 cSt viscosity at 40C
8. When removed, the LH fork leg had very minimal dampening feel with compressions cycles using my body for a shock Dyno. The RH side felt fine.

Thought process was to try the second cartridge with a lighter suspension fluid in both forks, heavier spring, and slightly less starting preload. Lighter fluid as now we have nearly double the dampening influence and I'm concerned about harshness with the stock small orofice emulators.

Bike setup after modification-
1. No changes to the rear, no changes to the front height, paid $60 for the RH cartridge
2. Bel-Ray 2.5W fluid 9.3 cSt viscosity at 40C - used about 400cc of fluid per fork leg
3. Added some air gap to the fluid level with springs installed at 135mm, with cartridges well pumped up and fluid settled for at least 30 minutes
4. Shortened plastic spacer by 5mm to 115mm length for just 3mm preload baseline - probably never needed for anyone, but I wanted as much space as possible for dropping the front if needed with the Woodcraft plates installed.
5. Installed .85 springs from Stoltec with 300mm free length also.
6. Assembled forks so that 3.1 full turns would be available for rebound setting.
7. Set preload to 5 lines showing after install and ride, rebound so that it's barely unseated (almost full slow rebound adjustment)
8. Forks felt weak in compression and rebound compared to a set of Ducati Ohlins with 25mm kit I had to compare with, using the body Dyno... So that's why I set the rebound to the stiffest setting. At this point, I was considering trying 5W fluid but needed to evaluate the setup on the bike.

Well, surprise... It felt great, much better composure especially under breaking and handling bumps with the brakes, and just ran around for a little bit. Better than expected, but I need to spend a lot more time on it to evaluate further. Bouncing on the bike the rebound was barely adequate but seemed to be very good when riding. For more rebound I would need a heavier fluid, but this may work for the current spring preload setting, maybe even a bit lighter. More later.
 
This is on a 05-06 636, it has raised casting numbers but no red knob. He said it's high low speed adjustable so is this the same as zx6 or zx6rr? It's gonna be $30-40 local pickup so I would like to buy it if its the right one.






did you end up getting this one?
 
Good to hear @Harsay. Pity you didn't have the chance to re-shim both legs. The OE base piston (compression) is fine. The mid-valve (rebound) piston has just ridiculously small bleed holes for the compression stroke. This is directly responsible for harshness at high shaft rates. Thing is Kayaba has properly sized pistons in their catalog. They also have ones where the rebound orifices are way too small but that's not as bad a problem.

Running 9.3cSt@40 you helped alleviate the compression orifice issue somewhat but you considerably lessened the rebound damping. Which is why you had to close the needles. If you want me to work up a custom shim stack for you using the light oil, PM me and I'll see what I can cook up. But ultimately the mid-valve piston just needs to get replaced.
 
Good to hear @Harsay. Pity you didn't have the chance to re-shim both legs. The OE base piston (compression) is fine. The mid-valve (rebound) piston has just ridiculously small bleed holes for the compression stroke. This is directly responsible for harshness at high shaft rates. Thing is Kayaba has properly sized pistons in their catalog. They also have ones where the rebound orifices are way too small but that's not as bad a problem.

Running 9.3cSt@40 you helped alleviate the compression orifice issue somewhat but you considerably lessened the rebound damping. Which is why you had to close the needles. If you want me to work up a custom shim stack for you using the light oil, PM me and I'll see what I can cook up. But ultimately the mid-valve piston just needs to get replaced.
Thanks... Since posting that... Maybe 7 weeks ago, I did reshim the bottom compression on both fork legs and enlarged the emulator orofice slightly, and also the bottom tube holes to compensate for using thicker suspension fluid as well. Much better, as low speed and high speed are both less, and I can also add just a little more preload to find a sweet spot... but you're right, I could probably improve it more as I didn't make any changes to the rebound cartridge pop off restriction (or whatever it's called, but I know exactly what you mean)

I was also able to back off the rebound needle a click to allow all of this to work together well.

The different year fork internals had significantly different shim stacks for the compression stock by the way, about half the shims for the 2015 compared to the 2014.
 

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I am also interested in seeing the spring rates on the various shock swaps. im 255lbs without my gear. im assuming that means a shock off a heavier bike would be preferable
 
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