ZX6RR Shock Conversion Continued:

Installation Notes:

1: As mentioned above, the ZX6RR lower shock mount hole is a smaller diameter than the stock shock (Ø10mm vs. Ø12mm). There are two ways to fix this:

A: Drill the lower mount to match the stock shock. This is relatively simple provided that you have the proper size drill bit; either a Ø12mm Metric or Ø31/64" Imperial. The mount is made of aluminum so the drilling process will be pretty easy (Just be sure to use a steady hand and/or, preferably, a drill press). The only downfall to this option is that you have now made an irreversible modification to your shock. Not a huge deal but it definitely limits your ability to resell should that time ever come.​

B: Replace the lower shock spacer and fastener to match the ZX6RR mount hole. Luckily for us there is a perfect, off the shelf, option for this. I have included the part numbers below. I chose this method as it is completely reversible, relatively inexpensive, and does not require a modification that could potentially weaken the shock mount.

Item #1:
Description: SPACER, REAR (10X17X30)
Suzuki Part Number: 62684-40A10

Item #2
Description: BOLT, LOWER (10X58)
Suzuki Part Number: 09103-10027

Item #3
Description: NUT | MODEL K4/K5/K6
Suzuki Part Number: 08319-31107

Total cost = $10.92 from metricpartsoutlet.com​

2: Drop-in Installation is only true with the appropriate components removed. I removed the tank, tank support, rear hugger, and plastic underseat tray to ease the installation of the shock. It could have likely been installed without doing this (as many others have done with the ZX10 and ZX6R shock) but the space is tight and installation required maneuvering the shock to clear various frame components, wires, swingarm, etc...

3: Battery Ground Wire: The neutral battery cable (Black wire) is grounded to the rear starter mount bolt. In order to make room for the ZX6RR shock reservoir, The fastener tying the cable to the starter needed to be loosened in order to rotate the cable out of the way. Photo to follow

4: Reservoir to engine block clearance: Although there is sufficient space (Approximately 1/16" as shown in the first photo below), I modified the end of the reservoir to increase this distance. I was worried that any rotation of the shock, which (however unlikely) is possible, would allow for the reservoir to contact the casing. I used a series of files to gently remove material from the end of the reservoir. It took maybe 10 minutes to complete and gives me added assurance that I will not have any problem with interference.

*Announcement 4-23-2014:
It has been brought to our attention from a fellow forum member (Thank you Hawkerjet!) that the suggestion above to remove material from the end of the reservoir is not so much "suggestion" as much as "Mandatory". Please take note: If you are installing the ZX6RR shock with the reservoir facing down, you will need to remove some material from the end of the reservoir to provide proper clearance to the engine case. I would also suggest installing a low-profile valve stem cap on the nitrogen fill port. While I do not think that it is a huge problem, it's definitely an added peace of mind that nothing will contact a hard part.

Reservoir Clearance to Engine (Unmodified):
\

Reservoir Clearance to Engine (Modified):

 

Public Service Anouncement: Clearance Update

4: Reservoir to engine block clearance: Although there is sufficient space (Approximately 1/16" as shown in the first photo below), I modified the end of the reservoir to increase this distance. I was worried that any rotation of the shock, which (however unlikely) is possible, would allow for the reservoir to contact the casing. I used a series of files to gently remove material from the end of the reservoir. It took maybe 10 minutes to complete and gives me added assurance that I will not have any problem with interference.

Reservoir Clearance to Engine (Unmodified):
\

Reservoir Clearance to Engine (Modified):

It has been brought to our attention from a fellow forum member (Thank you Hawkerjet!) that the suggestion above to remove material from the end of the reservoir is not so much "suggestion" as much as "Mandatory". Please take note: If you are installing the ZX6RR shock with the reservoir facing down, you will need to remove some material from the end of the reservoir to provide proper clearance to the engine case. I would also suggest installing a low-profile valve stem cap on the nitrogen fill port. While I do not think that it is a huge problem, it's definitely an added peace of mind that nothing will contact a hard part.

Hope this helps!

 

I have added some more notes to the second thread for the ZX6RR shock installation. The shock is on it's way out for re-build but I will follow up with more detail when it returns in a few weeks.

Thank you!

 

I installed my zx6rr shock today. It's a nice improvement over the zx6 shock I had on the bike. Slightly stiffer spring, more adjustability and I found the ride to be much more smooth with this shock. FYI I'm 200lbs with gear and set the preload so there were two full threads showing above the lock nut. This gave me approx 30mm of sag in the back.

Definitely worth the investment.

Daniel


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Nice pics and write up, Skooter.

 

I've been searching around for this info, forgive me if I missed it. Does anyone have the OEM shock stroke length? I want to be sure the '04 zx10r shock I have will not bottom out internally.
Thanks in advance!

 

Great question and great point!

I do not have the details of the stock shock travel but, looking at the rough dimension lines in the photo above, I would estimate 65mm [2 9/16"].

Of the few of the charts I've seen, the ZX10 has a stroke of 67mm or 69mm. Subtract the difference in shock length and you get about 61mm of effective travel. Seems close.

 

ZX6RR Shock Update

Just received my ZX6RR shock back from Traxxion Dynamics (Would have been here Tuesday but the weather wreaked havoc on the delivery schedule). Full Rebuild, Spring Installation, and Dyno test! In speaking with Lee of Traxxion; he stated that the shock function is very comparable to the upper level Penske shocks, although with a smaller range of the "sweet spot".

Selected Spring: Hyperco 600 lb/in (Based on my full gear weight of 205lb)

I will upload the Dyno chart as soon as I have access to a scanner.

Install this weekend, expect some more details afterward.

 

Just received my ZX6RR shock back from Traxxion Dynamics (Would have been here Tuesday but the weather wreaked havoc on the delivery schedule). Full Rebuild, Spring Installation, and Dyno test! In speaking with Lee of Traxxion; he stated that the shock function is very comparable to the upper level Penske shocks, although with a smaller range of the "sweet spot".

Selected Spring: Hyperco 600 lb/in (Based on my full gear weight of 205lb)

I will upload the Dyno chart as soon as I have access to a scanner.

Install this weekend, expect some more details afterward.

Do you mind if I ask how much just the rebuild is on that shock? Do they offer powder coating?

 

Things to look out for

I just wanted to highlight a couple areas to look out for interferences if you are doing a shock conversion. The FZ is a very tight package and, as such, has very little in the way of clearance around the clevis area of the shock.

1: Watch for contact of the lower portion of the shock spring and the clevis (also the back section of the motor casing); especially with shocks that are longer than stock. The longer shock reduces the angle between the clevis and the shock body therby reducing the clearance between the clevis and spring. It will likely not show with weight on the rear wheel (Suspension compressed) but could become evident at full extension as you rebound off of a bump.


2: This is another 'Longer shock" area to watch out for: the clearance at the rear of the clevis to the swingarm. The clevis will actually touch if you let the swingarm "droop" without the shock installed. Similar to what would happen with full extension of a longer shock. This may not be a problem but, with the small amount of movement that it takes for contact to happen, I would imagine that the shock would not have to be too much longer to cause problems.

 

Good call on the length part.

The other part is that the clevis is not as long as my Ohlins / ZX 10 shock.

There may not be enough clearance for a 8 mm move of the hole upward.

 

I'm exploring the 338mm 2004 zx10r shock as an option and would like to get it as close to 330mm as possible to avoid geometry/clearance issues. Having looked at Mr. Dolan's plugged & drilled mod and compared it to mine, it looks like it may be possible to get it to 332-333mm without running out of room. After measuring several times, 6mm (maaaybe 7) seems to be how much the hole can be moved back while keeping 2.5mm (stock) clearance between the clevis and fz's "rear relay arm".

 

Something I saw a while ago. Not for a shock assembly but that was for a steering arm. Machining a step washer like this one (each side of the clevis) would work too.

Get the hole where you want it on a mill and machine 2 end washers... your done. If you need more clearance you can file down the end of the clevis... or while you're on the mill... shave 1/4" from the end and be done with it.

With the right tooling its not a very hard job to do.

Sorry for tge cheesy drawing... I'm sure you get the idea. LOL

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works like the concentric chain adjustment on a Honda Hawk GT. clever idea.

 

Here's a little guide line from racetech I found. Looking at my numbers with 13-16mm free sag to get the OEM ride height put me on the upper end of the range but still fine. Getting the rear ride height and rider sag number should get you close enough not to worry too much for every day or spirit riding. The ZX-10 shock never been intended to be a track mod shock anyway, the Penskee as been R&D for this purpose with ride height adjustment and everything.


Sag

 

I'm still wondering if anyone else is considering using the racetech shims to shorten the shock internally. They sell shims in 1mm to 3mm increments, looking at shock rebuilding vids and web info, doesn't look too horribly difficult. Would need maybe 2 tools, fork seal bullet and seal head setting tool for about $50 total to do the work. I have a source to charge the bladder with nitrogen, just need the time and motivation to get after it.

 

Had I not found a ZX6RR shock I would have certainly gone this route. Please be sure to let us know how it goes/if it goes; This could be another great step!

 

great info in here, and value for money is off the charts on this mod

 

If for example a shock is a 1/4 inch longer than the 09's shock in both extended length and travel it seems to me ok to adjust the preload to give the same height with rider.



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If for example a shock is a 1/4 inch longer than the 09's shock in both extended length and travel it seems to me ok to adjust the preload to give the same height with rider.

The suspension will still top out higher than what it's designed to though, no? I'd like to avoid that.

 

Turns out the ZX10 shock I bought probably has more miles then the ebay listing let on. It's pretty much well spent.

Would it be possible to take the spring I bought from racetech for the zx10 shock and put it on the original fz-09 shock?

 

It has been said the FZ 09 rearshock has a 1.00 spring on it.

Link: http://www.yamahafz09.com/forum/6-fz-09-general-discussion/1507-09-sprung-too-soft-my-answer.html

 

Some more shock swap candidates :

For those that weigh north of 220 Lbs, the early Suzuki Hayabusa rear shock is 13 inch / 330 mm eye to eye & has a 130 spring.

Doing some testing, now.

8 mm preload on spring as assembled from the bench gives about 32 mm full sag on bike. ( 12 + 20 = 32 )

May try 9 mm preload , then later try a 120 spring.

Early GSXR 1000 ( 2001 to ? ) is also 330 mm eye to eye.

Both are eye top mount and clevis on the bottom.

Some tray cutting involved and reservoir facing up.

Have an Ohlins 1988-89 Yamaha FZ 750 R shock coming in that I will try a 115 or 120 spring on.

 

The Hayabusa shock was chosen because it is one of the most common on Ebay

as an OEM as well as an Ohlins version.

I mmount with reservoir up and it fits as shown in the pictures.

Keeps it away from the heat of the motor and makes adjustment easier.

Tray is trimmed as in most conversions .

The shock is installed by going forward with reservoir angled up 30 to 45 deg and

rotated level into cleared area.

I disconnect the wires to make install easier.

The 1 crossover wire with no plugs I may install a plug setup for easier install and removal.

 

 

 

Had to open the clevis about 1/2 mm.

 

End mill handy to relocate as well as bore larger holes.

Flat end mill easier to "move " hole than a drill bit would be.

Most shocks I come across have 10 mm lower hole, so bore to 12 mm to fit

FX 09 bolt and bushing.

 

After looking into shock swapping I need for someone to confirm that I am either looking at something wrong or have found an issue with posted shock lengths.
I don't have my shock out to measure it but looking at the photos it looks to me that the stock shock is 14 inches long (eyelet center to center) and not 13 inches.
That would mean the stock shock is ~355mm long and not 330mm. I've included a couple shock lists with this post for anyone interested.

 

After looking into shock swapping I need for someone to confirm that I am either looking at something wrong or have found an issue with posted shock lengths.
I don't have my shock out to measure it but looking at the photos it looks to me that the stock shock is 14 inches long (eyelet center to center) and not 13 inches.
That would mean the stock shock is ~355mm long and not 330mm. I've included a couple shock lists with this post for anyone interested.

I can confirm that the stock rear shock is 13" or 330mm Long. In the photo that you have referenced; the lower shock mount hole is lined up with the 1 inch mark.

 

Thanks, that makes a lot more sense.

 

Just a little parallax going on in that picture.

From Wikipedia:
"Parallax is a displacement or difference in the apparent position of an object viewed along two different lines of sight, and is measured by the angle or semi-angle of inclination between those two lines.

A simple everyday example of parallax can be seen in the dashboard of motor vehicles that use a needle-style speedometer gauge. When viewed from directly in front, the speed may show exactly 60; but when viewed from the passenger seat the needle may appear to show a slightly different speed, due to the angle of viewing."

 

Great info to read about but I'm just asking for the sake of discussion:

I have a ZX6R shock on my hand right now, ready to be installed tomorrow, but I'm wondering if is it possible to revert the position of the shock
as the reservoir facing up on the rear bottom bracket? Would it perform differently? Is there any negatives in doing so?
This is assuming we could use the spacers to accommodate the shocks 10mm stock bolt on the FZ9 bracket.

The reason of this question is it would make it more accessible to adjust the preload of the spring without having to tear down the bike to do so.
Does anybody have any insight in this?