[Crossbar1773]

Ever get any error codes?

That is an odd one. If I think of anything, ill respond but i am stumped.

In the future, its best to do one mod at a time, that way if problems arise, you know what caused it. Just speaking from experience here.

 

[Ifan]

Ever get any error codes?

That is an odd one. If I think of anything, ill respond but i am stumped.

In the future, its best to do one mod at a time, that way if problems arise, you know what caused it. Just speaking from experience here.

Had the check engine light come on after installing the ECU after the flash. The mechanic said about all the codes were active. Got it reset and only have a few recurring ones, but no CEL. The codes are C1555, P1EF5, P1EF0 that seem normal as I've seen them on other MT09s.
I think I've found the key to reference the OBD2 fault code with the fault numbers in the service manual. I asked the dealer to get the codes with the yamaha numbers on it for me, and i correlated that to the OBD numbers. It's just a hex to decimal conversion of the two last digits in the fault code.

P1EF0, F0 to dec= 240, means o2 sensor fault, which is reasonable as it's gone and disabled in the flash. I've also added an o2 eliminator dongle, just a couple of resistors.
P1EF5, powertrain. F5 to dec= 245, means engine stop detected. This one is a bit more generic and might be a plethora of things, and the service manual says it can be occasionally be thrown under normal operation.
C1555, chassis, 55 to dec = 85. Haven't been able to find this one in the manual, but my guess is it's just the sidestand switch kicking in or something.

 

[Crossbar1773]

Had the check engine light come on after installing the ECU after the flash. The mechanic said about all the codes were active. Got it reset and only have a few recurring ones, but no CEL. The codes are C1555, P1EF5, P1EF0 that seem normal as I've seen them on other MT09s.
I think I've found the key to reference the OBD2 fault code with the fault numbers in the service manual. I asked the dealer to get the codes with the yamaha numbers on it for me, and i correlated that to the OBD numbers. It's just a hex to decimal conversion of the two last digits in the fault code.

P1EF0, F0 to dec= 240, means o2 sensor fault, which is reasonable as it's gone and disabled in the flash. I've also added an o2 eliminator dongle, just a couple of resistors.
P1EF5, powertrain. F5 to dec= 245, means engine stop detected. This one is a bit more generic and might be a plethora of things, and the service manual says it can be occasionally be thrown under normal operation.
C1555, chassis, 55 to dec = 85. Haven't been able to find this one in the manual, but my guess is it's just the sidestand switch kicking in or something.

I know this is probably like beating a dead horse for you. If it were me, I'd have the person that flashed my ecu, return it to stock. See if that helps. If not, then have them reflash it again.

I know that sounds like alottta work and down time if you have to ship the ecu, but if it's at fault your never gonna find your issue.

And if it is the problem, well work toward a better flash of your ecu. Just my 2 cents brother.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Ifan]

I know this is probably like beating a dead horse for you. If it were me, I'd have the person that flashed my ecu, return it to stock. See if that helps. If not, then have them reflash it again.

I know that sounds like alottta work and down time if you have to ship the ecu, but if it's at fault your never gonna find your issue.

And if it is the problem, well work toward a better flash of your ecu. Just my 2 cents brother.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

That was my plan, probably next winter. I'll take it to a dyno guy in this country that uses woolich instead. The current flash is of the flashtune kind developed by a reputable guy in the US. Shipping the ECU is about 40 bucks each way for me :/ Been speaking to him as well, but no options other than try to add an autotune or get it flashed again.

 

[blackfireball5]

So, I've been trying to figure out my issue all season. I've adjusted the TB Sync twice now. I've cleaned the sensors with electrical cleaner.

I've been communicating with VcycleNut a ton through email. He thinks my issue is TPS related and I agree with him, but I can't tell what is causing it.

This past week when I did my second TB Sync this season (thinking I messed it up the first time) when I went for my first ride, I thought I solved my problem. My issue was completely gone. I chalked it up to either I fixed a vacuum leak, or the TB Sync did it.

Then, the following day I rode again all day and the bike was right back to where it started. 1/4 to 1/3 throttle is stuttering like crazy.

Here's a short video I took showing the symptom:

You can hear the issue present itself in first gear around :25 seconds and again around 1:20.

When you hear the rpms bouncing, I'm holding the throttle completely still at around a quarter throttle.

New video by Jon Dagata

photos.app.goo.gl

Does anyone know how to check the TPS data on a 2017? As far as I can tell form the service manual, there isn't a diagnostic mode anymore so you need a data reader. I have the OBD2 converter cable as well as an OBD2 bluetooth adapter and the Torque app.

Attached are two screenshots from Torque. One is 0 throttle, the other is 100% throttle. The three numbers in Torque are "absolute throttle position b", "relative throttle position", and "Throttle Position (manifold)".

I have no idea how to tell if these numbers are normal or not.

Hoping someone here can guide me.

EDIT:

Also, when I scan for error codes, I have no red or yellow codes, but a bunch of grey ones. I'm not sure what they all mean.When I clear them, a few come back, but they are grey so I don't know if they are active or what. (Screenshot of an example is attached)

 

[blackfireball5]

Some additional screenshots I grabbed tonight. I saw that "Pedal position D", "Pedal position E", and "Relative Pedal position" all were effected by changes in throttle input.

So attached is a screenshot of 0 throttle and 100% throttle for each of these 3 numbers.

These numbers seem "closer" to what the service manual states as far as TPS readings, but I'm not sure this is representative of the same data diagnostic mode 01 for TPS provides.

It is interesting that full throttle doesn't reach 100 though. Maybe someone will know if this is a problem or not.

 

[Ifan]

It is interesting that full throttle doesn't reach 100 though. Maybe someone will know if this is a problem or not.

Haven't checked my TPS values, but my stutter is exactly at steady throttle or a very slow decel, basically in the no load / barely any load zone to the engine. No RPM bouncing for me, just popping / faffing in the closed loop rpm area at those specific throttle inputs.
The TPS values might look weird due to the throttle maps. On my 690 that i can tune at home, the TPS value only goes to 15% or something like that while the engine is off because of the throttle map isn't linear (current rpm combined with throttle position).

I remember an old thread here with someone with a similar issue to yours. He ended up changing one of the coil packs and that solved it for him. Might be worth a shot, and move it around across every cylinder until you find the culprit.

If you have a laser temp gun, quickly shut off the engine after holding stutter for a while and measure the temp on the different headers. If one is really lower or higher than the others you might atleast know which cylinder is having the issue. Expect the middle cylinder to be a little bit hotter just because it's in the middle.

Another possible cause might be clogged injector / fuel filter. Heard of lots of weird gremlins like this caused by such.

Oh - and that amount of codes isn't normal afaik. I've done scans on three MTs and i usually see P1EF0 P1EF5 and C1555, and maybe one or two more.
Convert the last two HEX numbers to decimal get the corresponding code in the service manual. This seems to work on most powertrain codes, but i can't find them all in the manual.
Example: P1EF0, take F0, convert to dec = 240.

Clear the codes and see which ones returns. If the MAP, TPS and air intake sensor codes all return i might suspect an electrical gremlin or possible faulty ECU.

 

[blackfireball5]

Haven't checked my TPS values, but my stutter is exactly at steady throttle or a very slow decel, basically in the no load / barely any load zone to the engine. No RPM bouncing for me, just popping / faffing in the closed loop rpm area at those specific throttle inputs.
The TPS values might look weird due to the throttle maps. On my 690 that i can tune at home, the TPS value only goes to 15% or something like that while the engine is off because of the throttle map isn't linear (current rpm combined with throttle position).

I remember an old thread here with someone with a similar issue to yours. He ended up changing one of the coil packs and that solved it for him. Might be worth a shot, and move it around across every cylinder until you find the culprit.

If you have a laser temp gun, quickly shut off the engine after holding stutter for a while and measure the temp on the different headers. If one is really lower or higher than the others you might atleast know which cylinder is having the issue. Expect the middle cylinder to be a little bit hotter just because it's in the middle.

Another possible cause might be clogged injector / fuel filter. Heard of lots of weird gremlins like this caused by such.

Oh - and that amount of codes isn't normal afaik. I've done scans on three MTs and i usually see P1EF0 P1EF5 and C1555, and maybe one or two more.
Convert the last two HEX numbers to decimal get the corresponding code in the service manual. This seems to work on most powertrain codes, but i can't find them all in the manual.
Example: P1EF0, take F0, convert to dec = 240.

Clear the codes and see which ones returns. If the MAP, TPS and air intake sensor codes all return i might suspect an electrical gremlin or possible faulty ECU.

Hmmm. I appreciate the response. That's a lot of info. I have a laser temp guage. That sounds like a quick and easy thing to test. Is this the thread you were referring to?

Choppy performance

For a while I noticed my bike would momentarily cut out when cruising at low throttle positions at around 4500rpm ever since I got my Akra carbon exhaust and PCV. The problem feels like the injectors completely shut off until I twist a tiny bit more throttle to wake them up again. I always...

www.fz09.org

I just wish I knew if someone could chime in and tell me if my TPS data I posted above is normal or not. Or if there is a better way to read that on a 2017 without the built in diagnostic mode.

I don't thin kit could be a clogged fuel filter or injector. The bike only has like 2000 miles on it. ANd on top of that, I was able to get the symptoms to go away for a day. Not sure what caused that but I theorize it had to do with resetting the ECU (since I had to remove it to do the TB Sync).

VCycle David thinks that it is still related to the TB Sync and thinks something is causing the throttle bodies to get out of sync. So I suppose i'm going to need to take it all apart again to inspect it.

I can also test the actual Ohms of the TBS per service manual guidelines while i'm in there.

I'm also going to read and clear codes again and see what comes back.

Lots to try and do, but I just feel like i'm getting nowhere.

 

[Ifan]

Lots to try and do, but I just feel like i'm getting nowhere.

Don't have the time to read the thread over again, but if the bike only has 2k miles it's probably still under warranty. Since you're speaking with david my guess is that you got it flashed so your issue might or might not be covered by warranty depending on what the cause is. Maybe you can try to mail the ECU back to david and get it reverted to stock to check if the problem persists (the dealer might be able do that for you as well)? If the problem is still there, try remove the sharpie signature on the ecu with some acetone or something and take it to the dealer for warranty repair. If the problem goes away, try to get it flashed again and see if the problem returns, then you know where the problem is.

Like i told you earlier, that amount of faults isn't normal from my sample size of scanning 3 MT09s of different year models. Did you clear them? How many of them returned?

 

[blackfireball5]

Don't have the time to read the thread over again, but if the bike only has 2k miles it's probably still under warranty. Since you're speaking with david my guess is that you got it flashed so your issue might or might not be covered by warranty depending on what the cause is. Maybe you can try to mail the ECU back to david and get it reverted to stock to check if the problem persists (the dealer might be able do that for you as well)? If the problem is still there, try remove the sharpie signature on the ecu with some acetone or something and take it to the dealer for warranty repair. If the problem goes away, try to get it flashed again and see if the problem returns, then you know where the problem is.

Like i told you earlier, that amount of faults isn't normal from my sample size of scanning 3 MT09s of different year models. Did you clear them? How many of them returned?

I cleared them and only 1 returned. The P0030. H02S heater control circuit. The other codes must have been a fluke. I assume this is showing up since I no longer have an o2 sensor.

I synced the Tb's again and they are dead on.

The cylinder temps are all close to each other.

I checked all the connectors under the air box. Everything is secure.

David insists it isn't related to the ecu/tune.

@Ifan did you ever resolve your issue from this thread?

Slight miss and surging at cruising rpm

Hey guys, so recently I've noticed my bike surging more and missing slightly (like .1 second delay) between 3 and 4k when cruising. I know these bikes have always had a slight surging problem at these rpms, but recently it's gotten worse. I've also noticed that at part throttle the exhaust seems...

www.fz09.org

The video you posted on or around page 4 is exactly what my bike is doing. But it can get even worse to a point where it actually surges forward at back at cruising speed. I posted a video of it here:

New video by Jon Dagata

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Klye07]

I cleared them and only 1 returned. The P0030. H02S heater control circuit. The other codes must have been a fluke. I assume this is showing up since I no longer have an o2 sensor.

I synced the Tb's again and they are dead on.

The cylinder temps are all close to each other.

I checked all the connectors under the air box. Everything is secure.

David insists it isn't related to the ecu/tune.

@Ifan did you ever resolve your issue from this thread?

Slight miss and surging at cruising rpm

Hey guys, so recently I've noticed my bike surging more and missing slightly (like .1 second delay) between 3 and 4k when cruising. I know these bikes have always had a slight surging problem at these rpms, but recently it's gotten worse. I've also noticed that at part throttle the exhaust seems...

www.fz09.org

The video you posted on or around page 4 is exactly what my bike is doing. But it can get even worse to a point where it actually surges forward at back at cruising speed. I posted a video of it here:

New video by Jon Dagata

photos.app.goo.gl

Looks like the same symptoms I have. I've always wondered how the pressure sensors for the throttle bodies play into fueling?

 

[Ifan]

@Ifan did you ever resolve your issue from this thread?

Slight miss and surging at cruising rpm

Hey guys, so recently I've noticed my bike surging more and missing slightly (like .1 second delay) between 3 and 4k when cruising. I know these bikes have always had a slight surging problem at these rpms, but recently it's gotten worse. I've also noticed that at part throttle the exhaust seems...

www.fz09.org

The video you posted on or around page 4 is exactly what my bike is doing. But it can get even worse to a point where it actually surges forward at back at cruising speed. I posted a video of it here:

New video by Jon Dagata

photos.app.goo.gl

For the returning error code - never seen that one. Did a quick check and 30 in hex = 48 in decimal. Did a 30 second check in the the service manual and can't find any relevant information. Anyway, if the text that comes with the code is correct and the o2 heater circuit is broken, my guess is that you kinked / shorted the wires going to the o2 sensor connector while removing the o2 sensor. Wide band o2 sensors has a heating circuit in order for it to function properly. Not sure if the stock one has it though.

As for my stuttering sound, no - not yet. Haven't really looked much more into it due to other priorities.
All i know is that the Akra TI (db killer in) with the vcyclenut flash runs a bit rich. My chain adjuster and swingarm spool bolts turns brown from carbon deposits after a couple of long rides / weekend trips. My friend also tells me that they smell gas behind my bike when i give it a bit of throttle, but he has a supersniffer nose that is oversensitive. The stutter only happens at steady throttle / right before decelerating. My bike is flashed with the flashtune from early 2017 IIRC.
All services on the bike done at a dealership + a couple of oil changes myself. Dealership has also changed the plugs, but no difference.
All the mods that were done that winter was the Akra TI and the vcyclenut flash. The Akra TI has a built in exhaust leak at the collector, but i've asked Akrapovic and checked other Akra exhausts on the MT and they have the same thing.
I've never ridden a stock MT09 with the Akra TI though, just a 2019 with Akra Carbon. Didn't notice the sputter there.

If i get the time this winter I'll probably do a TB sync myself, check the TPS/APS connectors and test the resistance of the coil sticks.

 

[sdshawn]

I read through the thread, I guess to fast what was the solution?

 

[blackfireball5]

Update for myself:

After more testing and confusion. I sent my ECU back to Vcyclenut to be returned to stock. I'm then going to reinstall my o2 sensor and compare a video I took of a cold start right before I packed up my ECU to be sent out. Then, if the symptoms go away, i'll know I had an issue with the tune. I'm going to give Ivans tune a shot after this.

Vcyclenut believes I have some other electrical issue that has yet to be discovered. The dealership I bought the bike from said my bike was running lean and it was the tune. So I don't know. This will at least eliminate the tune if it isn't, and will confirm it's the tune if it is.

This is my video to compare against that I took literally before removing the ECU:

New video by Jon Dagata

photos.app.goo.gl

?‍♂

EDIT:

Also, one thing i'm wondering is if maybe a coil is going bad and I have weak spark under light load and idle. But when I checked header pipe temps, they seemed even. So i'm not sure.

 

[blackfireball5]

I read through the thread, I guess to fast what was the solution?

No resolution yet. Lots and lots of potential causes and things to test. For me at least.

 

[tcjonesFZ]

I love my bike, but this year it developed a problem that ruined my entire season.

Symptoms:
My 2014 FZ-09 has 30 000km on it and started stuttering while cruising around 30% throttle. It was getting worse as time went on. The stutter was becoming more frequent, under more riding conditions and was becoming violent. The bike was also starting on the 3rd or 4th pull instead of the normal 1st pull. It got so bad that is was happening in low speed situations. Once, it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during a left hand turn... only my angel and willpower kept me up. Disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU would improve the situation for a while, but after 50 km it was back.

The process:
I asked my Yamaha dealer to look into it during my maintenance service and they said it was bad gas (which ticked me off). Later they told me it was plugs, (which I had changed the day before myself). So I started cruising the forums to find a solution. I changed the air filter to a K&N and did the plugs. Then I did a reflash through VcycleNut. It didn't fix the problem. Then I replaced the injectors and tightened the throttle cable. While these all improved the bike, they didn't fix the underlying problem.

The Solution:
Finally, I decided to check all of my electrical connections. When I checked the connectors for the Accelerator and Throttle Position Sensors, I found condensation inside. I cleaned them out with electrical contact cleaner, let them dry and put it all back together. Low and behold, no stutter, jerking or hiccups. On top of that, 150km on, the bike is running smoother and starts 1st pull. My guess is that the APS and TPS must have been sending bad readings to both the throttle actuator and ecu. The actuator was opening and closing according to bad signals and the O2 sensor was reading rich as a result. The ecu was probably leaning the bike out based on the O2 data. Probably why it got better when I disconnected the battery. As the emissions data is rewritten in the ECU, the bike is returning to its normal fueling. Unfortunately it took the entire riding season to discover.

Recap:
Clean the electrical connectors for the APS and TPS to fix the problem. I plan on doing it every spring.

P.S. The VcycleNut flash greatly improved the bike. They have excellent customer service and maintain prompt correspondence throughout the process, it is also a cheaper alternative to throttle commanders and O2 deletes. Also, the manual states 1/4" play in the cable, that is WAY too much. Tighten to where its comfortable. (No wonder my right hand was always tired an numb.)

hello! this is very useful. i just got a 2017 fz09 demo bike from a dealership and have been encountering some strange issues. I would like to try and clean the connectors as you did but i have absolutely no idea where i would find them, where exactly are these connectors located? thankyou.

 

[abe57]

hello! this is very useful. i just got a 2017 fz09 demo bike from a dealership and have been encountering some strange issues. I would like to try and clean the connectors as you did but i have absolutely no idea where i would find them, where exactly are these connectors located? thankyou.

See post #13 on page #1 of this thread...you will have to remove the tank and air filter box to properly get to them ..

 

[tcjonesFZ]

See post #13 on page #1 of this thread...you will have to remove the tank and air filter box to properly get to them ..

Thanks abe, went ahead and read the whole thread after posting that. Debating on wether i should do this myself or just take it to someone, would something like this fall into the warranty?

 

[abe57]

Thanks abe, went ahead and read the whole thread after posting that. Debating on wether i should do this myself or just take it to someone, would something like this fall into the warranty?

Yes it would if found bad !!

 

[RonGerb]

Just replaced the APS and TPS and also cleaned the throttle bodies. Jerkiness/surging/stutter is gone!
My guess is that either the APS or TPS looked like @shamrock 's mentioned in post #10. Before I did this I went into the DIAG menu and "tested" the APS and TPS and they both hit all the values when you opened the throttle slowly so I assumed they were fine. After going to a local bike mechanic he test rode it and told me it seemed like a TPS problem and that's why I decided to just go ahead and buy both sensors and replace them myself. It ended up being just over $200 shipped from partzilla. Glad to put this behind me finally.