[blackfireball5]

Hmmmmmmm. Did you test it and figure out which one specifically it was? The TPS or APS?

Can you link me to the part? I can't seem to find it.

 

[abe57]

Items #11 &13 ... https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-ca...=Road&nw=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/FZ09_-_FZ09FS_-_2015/INTAKE

 

[blackfireball5]

Just ordered a replacement tps and aps.

Reinstalled my stock flashed ECU and the problem is still there. That rules out any tune issues. (as I expected)

Have a replacement battery on it's way as well.

I'm taking a video of the bike after each change and comparing them.

 

[blackfireball5]

Parts should be here tomorrow, so I should know this weekend if this solves my problem!

 

[blackfireball5]

Replacing TPS and APS solved my issue. I may need to adjust the throttle position sensor angle a tad, or my bike doesn't like the Lextek exhaust with the stock tune.

When I first start it, it idles slightly low and stalls if I give it throttle. This is only when it is cold. When it warms up it seems to be running great.

Is there a way to read the TPS/APS angle without using a Yamaha diagnostic tool on a 2017? i have the obd2 cable and reader. I use Torque, but I don't know how to read the TPS angle like the Yamaha scan tool.

 

[NeoXSR]

Is there a way to read the TPS/APS angle without using a Yamaha diagnostic tool on a 2017? i have the obd2 cable and reader. I use Torque, but I don't know how to read the TPS angle like the Yamaha scan tool.

Did you ever get any answer to this?
I recently purchased new APS and TPS sensors and would like to know if I can replace the old ones without any diagnostic tools?

 

[s3guin09]

Same issue here ! Someone had a diy for change the aps and tps ?? I bought it use on ebay from a 2016 that was running great . Do i had to go to my dealer to syncronize aps.and tps ??

 

[northernfz09]

So my FZ started sputtering again in the last week. Real jerky at cruise speed between 4000-5000 rpm. Piss me off. The winter of 18/19 I tried numerous possible fixes and in the spring of 2019 it ran great.

I replaced the Power Commander and then removed it for an updated ECU time. Played with chain tension and cleaned the APS and TPS connectors.

But wasn’t sure which one actually fixed the issue. So this week I have been trying one thing at a time. Started with chain tension. Didn’t make much difference.

So yesterday I removed the gas tank and airbox to get to the sensors. Blew them out, sprayed in contact cleaner, blew them out and added dielectric grease. Reassembled and took it for a test ride. Smooth as butter!

A week ago I drove the bike in rain!

Crazy that these connectors aren’t sealed from moisture.

 

[s3guin09]

New tps and aps ! I got a new bike my issue is solved !!!

 

[Hoxton Moto]

I love my bike, but this year it developed a problem that ruined my entire season.

Symptoms:
My 2014 FZ-09 has 30 000km on it and started stuttering while cruising around 30% throttle. It was getting worse as time went on. The stutter was becoming more frequent, under more riding conditions and was becoming violent. The bike was also starting on the 3rd or 4th pull instead of the normal 1st pull. It got so bad that is was happening in low speed situations. Once, it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during a left hand turn... only my angel and willpower kept me up. Disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU would improve the situation for a while, but after 50 km it was back.

The process:
I asked my Yamaha dealer to look into it during my maintenance service and they said it was bad gas (which ticked me off). Later they told me it was plugs, (which I had changed the day before myself). So I started cruising the forums to find a solution. I changed the air filter to a K&N and did the plugs. Then I did a reflash through VcycleNut. It didn't fix the problem. Then I replaced the injectors and tightened the throttle cable. While these all improved the bike, they didn't fix the underlying problem.

The Solution:
Finally, I decided to check all of my electrical connections. When I checked the connectors for the Accelerator and Throttle Position Sensors, I found condensation inside. I cleaned them out with electrical contact cleaner, let them dry and put it all back together. Low and behold, no stutter, jerking or hiccups. On top of that, 150km on, the bike is running smoother and starts 1st pull. My guess is that the APS and TPS must have been sending bad readings to both the throttle actuator and ecu. The actuator was opening and closing according to bad signals and the O2 sensor was reading rich as a result. The ecu was probably leaning the bike out based on the O2 data. Probably why it got better when I disconnected the battery. As the emissions data is rewritten in the ECU, the bike is returning to its normal fueling. Unfortunately it took the entire riding season to discover.

Recap:
Clean the electrical connectors for the APS and TPS to fix the problem. I plan on doing it every spring.

P.S. The VcycleNut flash greatly improved the bike. They have excellent customer service and maintain prompt correspondence throughout the process, it is also a cheaper alternative to throttle commanders and O2 deletes. Also, the manual states 1/4" play in the cable, that is WAY too much. Tighten to where its comfortable. (No wonder my right hand was always tired an numb.)

I love my bike, but this year it developed a problem that ruined my entire season.

Symptoms:
My 2014 FZ-09 has 30 000km on it and started stuttering while cruising around 30% throttle. It was getting worse as time went on. The stutter was becoming more frequent, under more riding conditions and was becoming violent. The bike was also starting on the 3rd or 4th pull instead of the normal 1st pull. It got so bad that is was happening in low speed situations. Once, it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during a left hand turn... only my angel and willpower kept me up. Disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU would improve the situation for a while, but after 50 km it was back.

The process:
I asked my Yamaha dealer to look into it during my maintenance service and they said it was bad gas (which ticked me off). Later they told me it was plugs, (which I had changed the day before myself). So I started cruising the forums to find a solution. I changed the air filter to a K&N and did the plugs. Then I did a reflash through VcycleNut. It didn't fix the problem. Then I replaced the injectors and tightened the throttle cable. While these all improved the bike, they didn't fix the underlying problem.

The Solution:
Finally, I decided to check all of my electrical connections. When I checked the connectors for the Accelerator and Throttle Position Sensors, I found condensation inside. I cleaned them out with electrical contact cleaner, let them dry and put it all back together. Low and behold, no stutter, jerking or hiccups. On top of that, 150km on, the bike is running smoother and starts 1st pull. My guess is that the APS and TPS must have been sending bad readings to both the throttle actuator and ecu. The actuator was opening and closing according to bad signals and the O2 sensor was reading rich as a result. The ecu was probably leaning the bike out based on the O2 data. Probably why it got better when I disconnected the battery. As the emissions data is rewritten in the ECU, the bike is returning to its normal fueling. Unfortunately it took the entire riding season to discover.

Recap:
Clean the electrical connectors for the APS and TPS to fix the problem. I plan on doing it every spring.

P.S. The VcycleNut flash greatly improved the bike. They have excellent customer service and maintain prompt correspondence throughout the process, it is also a cheaper alternative to throttle commanders and O2 deletes. Also, the manual states 1/4" play in the cable, that is WAY too much. Tighten to where its comfortable. (No wonder my right hand was always tired an numb.)

I love my bike, but this year it developed a problem that ruined my entire season.

Symptoms:
My 2014 FZ-09 has 30 000km on it and started stuttering while cruising around 30% throttle. It was getting worse as time went on. The stutter was becoming more frequent, under more riding conditions and was becoming violent. The bike was also starting on the 3rd or 4th pull instead of the normal 1st pull. It got so bad that is was happening in low speed situations. Once, it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during a left hand turn... only my angel and willpower kept me up. Disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU would improve the situation for a while, but after 50 km it was back.

The process:
I asked my Yamaha dealer to look into it during my maintenance service and they said it was bad gas (which ticked me off). Later they told me it was plugs, (which I had changed the day before myself). So I started cruising the forums to find a solution. I changed the air filter to a K&N and did the plugs. Then I did a reflash through VcycleNut. It didn't fix the problem. Then I replaced the injectors and tightened the throttle cable. While these all improved the bike, they didn't fix the underlying problem.

The Solution:
Finally, I decided to check all of my electrical connections. When I checked the connectors for the Accelerator and Throttle Position Sensors, I found condensation inside. I cleaned them out with electrical contact cleaner, let them dry and put it all back together. Low and behold, no stutter, jerking or hiccups. On top of that, 150km on, the bike is running smoother and starts 1st pull. My guess is that the APS and TPS must have been sending bad readings to both the throttle actuator and ecu. The actuator was opening and closing according to bad signals and the O2 sensor was reading rich as a result. The ecu was probably leaning the bike out based on the O2 data. Probably why it got better when I disconnected the battery. As the emissions data is rewritten in the ECU, the bike is returning to its normal fueling. Unfortunately it took the entire riding season to discover.

Recap:
Clean the electrical connectors for the APS and TPS to fix the problem. I plan on doing it every spring.

P.S. The VcycleNut flash greatly improved the bike. They have excellent customer service and maintain prompt correspondence throughout the process, it is also a cheaper alternative to throttle commanders and O2 deletes. Also, the manual states 1/4" play in the cable, that is WAY too much. Tighten to where its comfortable. (No wonder my right hand was always tired an numb.)

I love my bike, but this year it developed a problem that ruined my entire season.

Symptoms:
My 2014 FZ-09 has 30 000km on it and started stuttering while cruising around 30% throttle. It was getting worse as time went on. The stutter was becoming more frequent, under more riding conditions and was becoming violent. The bike was also starting on the 3rd or 4th pull instead of the normal 1st pull. It got so bad that is was happening in low speed situations. Once, it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during a left hand turn... only my angel and willpower kept me up. Disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU would improve the situation for a while, but after 50 km it was back.

The process:
I asked my Yamaha dealer to look into it during my maintenance service and they said it was bad gas (which ticked me off). Later they told me it was plugs, (which I had changed the day before myself). So I started cruising the forums to find a solution. I changed the air filter to a K&N and did the plugs. Then I did a reflash through VcycleNut. It didn't fix the problem. Then I replaced the injectors and tightened the throttle cable. While these all improved the bike, they didn't fix the underlying problem.

The Solution:
Finally, I decided to check all of my electrical connections. When I checked the connectors for the Accelerator and Throttle Position Sensors, I found condensation inside. I cleaned them out with electrical contact cleaner, let them dry and put it all back together. Low and behold, no stutter, jerking or hiccups. On top of that, 150km on, the bike is running smoother and starts 1st pull. My guess is that the APS and TPS must have been sending bad readings to both the throttle actuator and ecu. The actuator was opening and closing according to bad signals and the O2 sensor was reading rich as a result. The ecu was probably leaning the bike out based on the O2 data. Probably why it got better when I disconnected the battery. As the emissions data is rewritten in the ECU, the bike is returning to its normal fueling. Unfortunately it took the entire riding season to discover.

Recap:
Clean the electrical connectors for the APS and TPS to fix the problem. I plan on doing it every spring.

P.S. The VcycleNut flash greatly improved the bike. They have excellent customer service and maintain prompt correspondence throughout the process, it is also a cheaper alternative to throttle commanders and O2 deletes. Also, the manual states 1/4" play in the cable, that is WAY too much. Tighten to where its comfortable. (No wonder my right hand was always tired an numb.)

Tim, thanks for post.
Very similar issue on 2014 MT09 27,000miles - change plugs, air filter, ecu flash, balanced carb valves. Your cleaning APS & TPS connections seems to have cleared the sputtering. Will now clean regularly and use some dielectic grease. Thanks, really appreciate.

 

[neeko72]

Me too would like to thanks Tim. Same issues on my 09Sp 2021, from more than 4 month. Done everything without any solutions... at last i read this topic, unplugged the Tps, cleaned with air, sprayed with contact cleaner, and isolated with dielectric grease. Stuttering are disappeared.

Inviato dal mio SM-A528B utilizzando Tapatalk

 

[JRG2424]

Me too would like to thanks Tim. Same issues on my 09Sp 2021, from more than 4 month. Done everything without any solutions... at last i read this topic, unplugged the Tps, cleaned with air, sprayed with contact cleaner, and isolated with dielectric grease. Stuttering are disappeared.

Inviato dal mio SM-A528B utilizzando Tapatalk

Where is the aps sensor located on your bike; at the throttle housing. I need a picture of this part, or part number.. ty

 

[MT09 2014 Sweden]

Where is the aps sensor located on your bike; at the throttle housing. I need a picture of this part, or part number.. ty

Gen1 and 2

Gen3

 

[JRG2424]

Look closely at the pic on post #13...anything electrical connected to the throttle body's just remove one at a time clean them up and then apply a bit of dialectic grease " squeeze it into the female part of the connector " and connect it back and move on to the next one ....

the dia. grease may collect dirt. The CRC contact is best

 

[abe57]

the dia. grease may collect dirt. The CRC contact is best

ok .. You do you and I'll do me... Dirt collection will only be on the outside of the connector . They are made to be sealed connectors but some moisture seems to get in ,CRC is a cleaner and Dialectic Grease keeps that out .

 

[JRG2424]

When you clean the tps. Are you just disconnecting the connector and cleaning the contacts of the plugs or actually opening the sensor up and cleaning interior parts within in it
Thanks in advance all

 

[JRG2424]

Created my account and started my gold subscription just to reply to this post. 2016 FJ09 and I've done everything to try and resolve the stutter/surge. For me it happens around 2-3K RPM while giving very slight throttle inputs. So far i've done plugs and throttle sync, adjusted the aps sensor, new chain and sprokets, kev's o2 mod, Vcyclenut flash and block off plates, and recently removed the tank AND airbox to clean and grease all the electronic connections including the coils, injector connectors, APS and TPS, and even the battery terms. Right now I have the APS on order from amazon because of post #10 where @Shamrock describes water in his APS and I've ridden through LOT's of rain. @Shamrock, I would love to hear the symptoms that you had with the bad APS. I've tested the APS in diag mode while slowly turning the throttle very slowly and it seems to be fine hitting all the numbers but at this point I'm stumped.

My worst thought about the situation is that it could be a bad output shaft bearing as described here Gearbox teardown, anyone got experience?

With 21K on the bike I have been guilty of going long intervals without cleaning or adjusting and possibly over tightening and unlike the guy who got his output bearings replaced this bike has been down and repaired through insurance at the dealer and I'm pretty sure the Y.e.s. warranty is voided when this happens.

I'm hoping the APS sensor will solve the problem but it's on its way from Shenzhen and now amazon is saying it's "Delayed in Customs" so i'll be expecting that halfway through June if not July. I've been having this problem since last year and thought I just needed to replace the chain but after reading countless post about the surging/stutter experienced by tons of people on this forum I'm starting to get a little discouraged.

ApS is air pressure sensor right. There's two of these shown on the parts diagram below

 

[JRG2424]

How are you guys removing the tps it has two hex bit screws on each side and is too close to the frame to reach a driver or anything else in there

 

[RonGerb]

ApS is air pressure sensor right. There's two of these shown on the parts diagram below

APS is accelerator position sensor. TPS is throttle position sensor. They both do similar things. APS is on top of the throttle body, TPS is on the side.

How are you guys removing the tps it has two hex bit screws on each side and is too close to the frame to reach a driver or anything else in there
View attachment 175802

To remove the TPS you have to remove the throttle body. It's a bit tricky but not really a huge deal, it just takes time.

 

[wylie48]

I love my bike, but this year it developed a problem that ruined my entire season.

Symptoms:
My 2014 FZ-09 has 30 000km on it and started stuttering while cruising around 30% throttle. It was getting worse as time went on. The stutter was becoming more frequent, under more riding conditions and was becoming violent. The bike was also starting on the 3rd or 4th pull instead of the normal 1st pull. It got so bad that is was happening in low speed situations. Once, it happened in the middle of a busy intersection during a left hand turn... only my angel and willpower kept me up. Disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU would improve the situation for a while, but after 50 km it was back.

The process:
I asked my Yamaha dealer to look into it during my maintenance service and they said it was bad gas (which ticked me off). Later they told me it was plugs, (which I had changed the day before myself). So I started cruising the forums to find a solution. I changed the air filter to a K&N and did the plugs. Then I did a reflash through VcycleNut. It didn't fix the problem. Then I replaced the injectors and tightened the throttle cable. While these all improved the bike, they didn't fix the underlying problem.

The Solution:
Finally, I decided to check all of my electrical connections. When I checked the connectors for the Accelerator and Throttle Position Sensors, I found condensation inside. I cleaned them out with electrical contact cleaner, let them dry and put it all back together. Low and behold, no stutter, jerking or hiccups. On top of that, 150km on, the bike is running smoother and starts 1st pull. My guess is that the APS and TPS must have been sending bad readings to both the throttle actuator and ecu. The actuator was opening and closing according to bad signals and the O2 sensor was reading rich as a result. The ecu was probably leaning the bike out based on the O2 data. Probably why it got better when I disconnected the battery. As the emissions data is rewritten in the ECU, the bike is returning to its normal fueling. Unfortunately it took the entire riding season to discover.

Recap:
Clean the electrical connectors for the APS and TPS to fix the problem. I plan on doing it every spring.

P.S. The VcycleNut flash greatly improved the bike. They have excellent customer service and maintain prompt correspondence throughout the process, it is also a cheaper alternative to throttle commanders and O2 deletes. Also, the manual states 1/4" play in the cable, that is WAY too much. Tighten to where its comfortable. (No wonder my right hand was always tired an numb.)

Great info I will attempt this at weekend thanks for the info,I had my ecu flashes and for a while it was smooth all the way and power was much better,but this may solve the low speed 3k to 4k stuttering that only happens when trying to cruise along but not when opening the taps,if you whack the throttle open it's fine just don't like the small openings and the other fix I seen about going into diagnostic isn't an option on the 2018 tracer,the older ones you can hold 2 buttons on and turn the ignition on to access diagnostic to make adjustments but not 2018.