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There has to be initial preload to keep the spring secure. The more important figure is rider sag.
FWIW I have a 550in/lb spring, initial preload is 14mm with 1mm added on the preload adjuster. Sag with 87kg's on board is 38mm, static sag is 10mm.
 
Of course the sprig has to be secured with some preload before putting it in. But I dont know is the preload to high or spring to stiff for the bike as without additional preload the bike is topped and has no play. As mentioned, will check sag with me on it (without any added preload) and if its to small or arround good figures that means that its to stiff. Am I thinking in right direction?
Also by loosening installed preload i can gain some sag, of course keeping the spring in place, not meaning loosening that it has a play.
 
Of course the sprig has to be secured with some preload before putting it in. But I dont know is the preload to high or spring to stiff for the bike as without additional preload the bike is topped and has no play. As mentioned, will check sag with me on it (without any added preload) and if its to small or arround good figures that means that its to stiff. Am I thinking in right direction?
The spring rate is stamped on the spring - I think the Ohlins come standard with -31 (95 N/mm) springs? How much do you weigh?
But yeah, if the hydraulics not allowing the spring to extend further to give you any static sag then the installed preload is too high.
Get your rider sag and take it from there. Because if the spring's too stiff for your weight and you fit a lighter spring, you may end up getting some static sag.
 
The spring rate is stamped on the spring - I think the Ohlins come standard with -31 (95 N/mm) springs? How much do you weigh?
But yeah, if the hydraulics not allowing the spring to extend further to give you any static sag then the installed preload is too high.
Get your rider sag and take it from there. Because if the spring's too stiff for your weight and you fit a lighter spring, you may end up getting some static sag.
I'm arround 90kg without gear
 
Of course the sprig has to be secured with some preload before putting it in. But I dont know is the preload to high or spring to stiff for the bike as without additional preload the bike is topped and has no play. As mentioned, will check sag with me on it (without any added preload) and if its to small or arround good figures that means that its to stiff. Am I thinking in right direction?
Also by loosening installed preload i can gain some sag, of course keeping the spring in place, not meaning loosening that it has a play.
The point of checking sag figures is partly to ensure you have the right spring for your weight. The accepted guide is 1/3 of total travel for rider sag. I run a bit less because an 09 has relatively long travel. This is for general road riding, not track use.
So you can have 10mm to 15mm installed preload and then your rear rider sag should be around 32 to 38mm depending on weight. More or less than that indicates the spring is too soft or too stiff. With light bikes like an 09 it's difficult getting ideal static sag and rider sag figures together because rider weight is in a much higher ratio to bike weight.
Let us know the sag figures when you have them, and whether it's in full kit or normal clothes. Make sure you measure them with your damping set at the usual positions, don't back damping off.
 
Got a 21 SP as well and been fiddling around with the suspension. Noticed the lack of static sag in the rear as well with preload adjuster all the way out. I don't find the riding to be that bad on bumpy roads, not like the analogy of the second kid on the trampoline. And we have plenty of bumpy roads where I live in Norway. But I'm sure it would be nice to have some static sag, and not as "planky" as this.. I'm gonna check my rider sag in the near future, weighing 65 kg with out gear so its going to be interesting to see what numbers I get. Played around with rebound and in stock settings I find the rear to fast and front too slow. Did some adjustment with this is mind which made it more in balance - but have yet to ride it with these settings.
 
Update:
Had the suspension check by a suspension tuner. Turns out the front springs are quite soft and rear shock spring stiff, probably not in the same category weightclass. With my 64 kg w/o gear we managed 40 f/sag and 32 r/sag. To get the desired 35 even I need to re-spring with stiffer springs front and softer rear. The shop owner was a bit surprised as he assumed the springs would be too stiff for my weight. For me it's not really an issue, I was told I could notice more understeer with harder riding on track for example. For now I'm not doing any track riding but occasionally spirited rides on the rode - but it's fine for now. Was quoted around €600 to re-spring.
 
Update:
Had the suspension check by a suspension tuner. Turns out the front springs are quite soft and rear shock spring stiff, probably not in the same category weightclass. With my 64 kg w/o gear we managed 40 f/sag and 32 r/sag. To get the desired 35 even I need to re-spring with stiffer springs front and softer rear. The shop owner was a bit surprised as he assumed the springs would be too stiff for my weight. For me it's not really an issue, I was told I could notice more understeer with harder riding on track for example. For now I'm not doing any track riding but occasionally spirited rides on the rode - but it's fine for now. Was quoted around €600 to re-spring.
Who recommended 35 front? That's track setting, even then it will slow turn in unless you run 25mm sag at the back. 40mm front is better all round.
 
Update:
Had the suspension check by a suspension tuner. Turns out the front springs are quite soft and rear shock spring stiff, probably not in the same category weightclass.
Yeah, same as previous gen 09's. On my 14, I had to set preload to lowest on the shock and crank the front preload up.
It makes sense if you figure the Japenese engineers spring the bikes for 50kg riders who might occasionally carry 30kg passengers.
 
Turns out the front springs are quite soft, and rear shock spring stiff, probably not in the same category weight class
That's the opposite of the regular 2021 MT-09 I sat on at the dealer. I measured the front sag without any gear (73Kg), and the front sagged very little, and the rear more than I wanted (don't have those numbers anymore).

So what's the verdict with the SP (the bike I want to get), for a 162-lb rider (w/ gear & tailbag, probably 180+), who corners not too aggressively, but at very aggressive lean angles (the pace)? I don't want spending that kind of money, and having to d*ck with the suspension. I want cruise, but not having to mess with suspension. I'm used to a firm ride, so that wouldn't be an issue. I just don't want the ride jarring. I used to have an MT-10, and it was super stiff in front, but loosening up preload and compression, made it okay. At the rear, just tightened compression a bit. Thanks.
 
That's the opposite of the regular 2021 MT-09 I sat on at the dealer. I measured the front sag without any gear (73Kg), and the front sagged very little, and the rear more than I wanted (don't have those numbers anymore).
If the preload and compression weren't cranked way up, prolly stiction (very noticeable on previous gens). And/or not so good front wheel installation which can cause the forks to bind a little.

The fork springs are soft - you'll find out the first time you get on the brakes with even a little anger lol
 
There's an interesting point in there that I found out by trial and error. The damping should be set close to the final settings when checking sag. I had backed all damping off and my sag figures were much greater than they should have been.
 
Anyone has maybe whole video??
I’m registered for his site but the full versions aren’t shareable without recording it. Long story short. He found the suspension inadequate and needed to use the majority of the damping to get the bike close to proper after only ~1000 miles on the clock. Discussed a shock spring swap as the stock spring is too soft and heavier or more fork oil for the fronts.
 
I’m registered for his site but the full versions aren’t shareable without recording it. Long story short. He found the suspension inadequate and needed to use the majority of the damping to get the bike close to proper after only ~1000 miles on the clock. Discussed a shock spring swap as the stock spring is too soft and heavier or more fork oil for the fronts.
If you have time to record it ;) would be cool
 
I’m registered for his site but the full versions aren’t shareable without recording it. Long story short. He found the suspension inadequate and needed to use the majority of the damping to get the bike close to proper after only ~1000 miles on the clock. Discussed a shock spring swap as the stock spring is too soft and heavier or more fork oil for the fronts.
Thank you!
 
He found the suspension inadequate and needed to use the majority of the damping to get the bike close to proper after only ~1000 miles on the clock. Discussed a shock spring swap as the stock spring is too soft and heavier or more fork oil for the fronts.
Well, that's of no help to anyone. First of all, the bike has TWO dampings: rebound, and compression, so which one was he talking about? Or both? But most importantly, I'm 100% sure the shock would be too stiff for a 100-lb girl, so he probably was talking about himself, which is on the, hmmm, 'chubby' side:devilish:. And finally, using the bike for the track would need stiffer settings than the street, but most of us are not going to do that.

Hey, do you know what he said about the compression damping, which was cut off on the video above? He had preload at the minimum, and rebound at 3 'clicks'. Curious what he said about compression on the rear shock, and the front settings, and if they were 'balanced' with the rear. But of course without a rider on top (and of known weight), and how bike is ridden, all of that info doesn't mean much.
 
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