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Discussion Starter #41
You need to wedget the pliers first then remove the old CCT. The middle bolt give you access the the adjuster inside...

The pliers won't put a lot of pressure in the chain, just keep the slider from backing off and the chain to skip. If you move the chain side to side as you adjust the APE CCT, you will feel the tension in the chain build up... then remove the pliers to get a better feel. Incease the CCT pressure until the chain is about to stop moving... don't over do it. Then spin the engine with your ratchet to see if the chain get any more loose and adjust if necessary. Then back off thr adjuster as instructed. Tight and button everything back up... and your done.
 

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I just don't understand the difference between the OEM center bolt and the APE one. APE's is simple. If we were removing it I'd say wedge the slider and then back out the center bolt and remove and so on; where as in your first post you take the center portion of the OEM CCT out first. Just not sure why it was removed before wedging something in to hold the slider in place.

And stupid question, but when you say "move the chain side to side" I assume you are speaking relative to the bike; aka left side to right side as opposed to front wheel to rear wheel.

Thanks for the help. Sounds simple enough, but one lil mistake can unleash a world of hurt. Just trying to make sure i know exactly what I'm doing before I start opening things up.
 

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You can wedge some thing between the guide and case before touching the old CCT. I used a socket with one layer of shop rag wrapped around it. Doesn't stick out as far as pliers for me to bump out of place accidentally. Yeah, I'm the kind that would do that...
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I just don't understand the difference between the OEM center bolt and the APE one. APE's is simple. If we were removing it I'd say wedge the slider and then back out the center bolt and remove and so on; where as in your first post you take the center portion of the OEM CCT out first. Just not sure why it was removed before wedging something in to hold the slider in place.

And stupid question, but when you say "move the chain side to side" I assume you are speaking relative to the bike; aka left side to right side as opposed to front wheel to rear wheel.

Thanks for the help. Sounds simple enough, but one lil mistake can unleash a world of hurt. Just trying to make sure i know exactly what I'm doing before I start opening things up.
Got it. I removed the Fizzer kit from the OEM CCT before dumping it. Absolutely no need to remove the center bolt on the OEM CCT, just the 2 allen bolts on each side. The OEM is sort of spring loaded/hydraulic and the APE is completely manual. Pretty much a long bolt with a jam nut. The OEM has a bolt there that work as a duct cover to the real adjuster inside. Once it's all done you can play with the OEM one to see how it doesn't work LOL
 

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Haha alright, that makes more sense. Was just curious if there was any actual need to remove that center bolt/nut off of the oem CCT before taking the cover off.

Thanks for the input on the socket. I'm sure i'll just find something lying around once I get it opened up.

As for moving the chain side to side; was I correct in my assumption as that being left to right as opposed to front wheel to back wheel?

Think that is my last question at least. Now just to get it adjusted correctly!
 

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Haha alright, that makes more sense. Was just curious if there was any actual need to remove that center bolt/nut off of the oem CCT before taking the cover off.
if you remove that center bolt, and stick a 3mm allen into the adjuster, it locks the tensioner rod in place so that when you undo the tensioner bolts, the tensioner body won't shoot out from the spring pressure.

it's just to make removing the tensioner a bit easier.
 

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so when the tensioner rod shoots out, is there a bolt the unscrews due to the spring pressure? Only thing I can think of is that the allen will just keep some bolt from spinning off due to the pressure?

But that makes sense. I remember seeing some discussions on how when you just pull it out it springs apart. Thanks for the heads up!
 

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so when the tensioner rod shoots out, is there a bolt the unscrews due to the spring pressure? Only thing I can think of is that the allen will just keep some bolt from spinning off due to the pressure?
nothing comes apart when the tensioner rod fully extends, if that's what you mean. when you insert an allen key into the adjuster, the rod is 'locked' so that it will not shoot out from spring pressure, but if you then turn the allen key, the tensioner rod can be 'screwed' in and out. that's how you pull the rod back into the tensioner body, you wind it back with the allen key. when you pull the allen key out, the rod is unlocked and the spring forces it out. that's the normal mode of operation when the tensioner is installed in the engine.

it sounds confusing when described, but it's easily understood if you had the tensioner in your hands.
 

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When you take off the CCT cover on the right side, is there any issue with reusing the gasket? I plan to finally put this guy in tomorrow, and just noticed there is a gasket there.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I was able to reuse the gasket. Just be gentle when pulling the cover off... you might be lucky too
 

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I bought a new gasket before starting the APE install just in case, but I was able to reuse the original, it's doing fine.
 

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So I think I might have left it a hair too loose. On start up this morning (about 57 F) heard the distinctive tick for about 10 seconds then it went away. I assume that ticking isn't normal; I just don't want to over tighten it. Plan to move it in about 1/4 turn at a time till it goes away.
 

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And word of warning to anyone taking off the cam chain cover. There is a little metal "pin" that holds the guide in place. You can see it just above the sprocket in marthy's 4th picture (it has what looks like blue sharpie on the end of it). This pin came out with the cover and the guide slid down/back a bit. I didn't realize this until after the fact so I got to go through the whole adjusting process twice.
 

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Alright, been a few days. Tightened it a hair twice now (total of about 1/3 a turn), and still have that nasty "marbles shaking in a can" vib under moderate acceleration at around the 4-5k mark. Is there any way to tell if i've tightened it too much aside from measuring the play in the cam chain? I plan to keep inching tighter, but dunno of any signs to keep an eye out for.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Alright, been a few days. Tightened it a hair twice now (total of about 1/3 a turn), and still have that nasty "marbles shaking in a can" vib under moderate acceleration at around the 4-5k mark. Is there any way to tell if i've tightened it too much aside from measuring the play in the cam chain? I plan to keep inching tighter, but dunno of any signs to keep an eye out for.
That should not make any noise. In case of a doubt go back in there and double check the chain play. Only few bolts and the extra 5 minutes will give you peace of mind. Too tight is no good. Add tension until there is almost no play pushing the chain side to side then back off as describe in the instructions.
 

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Thanks Marthy. Got mine installed tonight with no issues. The chain had a bit of side to side play after backing off the tensioner and there was no clicking noise after startup so I guess it's in check. I had done the "manual" mod to the factory CCT but it still managed to make noise after a week or so. Seems like that shouldn't have been possible it sure as shit happened all summer.
 

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APE tensioner install DONE! No side cover gasket needed; my cover popped right off clean and easy.

That 10 second ticky ticky at startup is the engine making normal noise as the oil makes its way up the passages. Totally normal!

4k-5k rattling that sounds like bb's in a can, means you should tighten the tensioner just a little bit. Maybe ~ 16th of a turn tighter in my experience.

Backing the tension off 1/2 turn as per instructions got it close to correct, but it was too loose and was making plenty of racket even at idle. Maybe 1/4 turn in and had it right there in the sweet spot.

After seeing what the jam screw can do to the stock tensioner (can crack/break the inner adjuster nut), I kind of regret advising people to do that in the first place. What can I say, it's all we had for a fix at the time.

Anyway, thanks for the detailed write up. Thank you APE for providing a solid solution for us!
 

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APE tensioner install DONE! No side cover gasket needed; my cover popped right off clean and easy.

That 10 second ticky ticky at startup is the engine making normal noise as the oil makes its way up the passages. Totally normal!

4k-5k rattling that sounds like bb's in a can, means you should tighten the tensioner just a little bit. Maybe ~ 16th of a turn tighter in my experience.

Backing the tension off 1/2 turn as per instructions got it close to correct, but it was too loose and was making plenty of racket even at idle. Maybe 1/4 turn in and had it right there in the sweet spot.

After seeing what the jam screw can do to the stock tensioner (can crack/break the inner adjuster nut), I kind of regret advising people to do that in the first place. What can I say, it's all we had for a fix at the time.

Anyway, thanks for the detailed write up. Thank you APE for providing a solid solution for us!
Wouldn't ever hold it against you bro! It's all we (did) have at the time.
 
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