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How-To Adjust manual cam chain tensioners

4.6K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  2and3cylinders  
#1 · (Edited)
Disclaimer - all my mods/ideas will kill you and cause athletes foot fungus.

I've seen posts talking about the inherent guessing "how tight is tight enough" about setting the initial tension on the Cam Chain Tensioners (CCT). Manual tensioners seem to have a bias in the instructions suggesting you "adjust till it makes contact with CCT guide then tighten X more turns". We can do better than this type of instruction from vendors like APE.

... I wonder if a lot of 09 tensioner "failures" could be installation error after removal for valve adjustments. If you retract the tension, reinstall it and just left the spring extend the tensioner it will rattle due to being too loose. After letting the spring extend the tensioner we are supposed to add ( if I remember correctly) two turns of preload to apply proper pressure.
I expect some fails are the startup CCT tension adjustment just didn't cut it. We want to know we have set the tension correctly

Here is a technique I use (below, copied from my valve adjust tutorial)

Now we are going to do the initial tightening of the tensioner arm against the cam chain (to remove the remaining cam chain slack). Follow the CCT instructions up to the point where it says to tighten the cam chain tensioner until it makes contact. Now do this below instead of following the manual.

Turn the CCT screw clockwise to the point where the arm makes contact, then snug the cam chain tensioner with some low-to-medium force - don't gorilla it and definitely don't follow the Service Manual (I think it says "turn it an additional half turn" - a great way to over tighten it imo). Just snug the cam chain tensioner up moderately against the cam chain guide with the special tool.

Then take your thumb only, and press hard on the cam chain where it shows in the drawing below, between the two cam gears, and then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down.

Reassembly_Cams_01.jpg.31b901cad9f115fa7abed612b79776a0.jpg

Now try to tighten the special tool that was already snugged with low-to-medium force. It will probably be easier to turn again for a small distance because you freed up some chain slack, so go ahead and repeat the tightening with the special tool. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again.

Then repeat - use your thumb again, and press hard again on chain between cams, then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down, but it will probably be less deflection than that first press. Now try to tighten the special tool again - it will probably be easier to turn again, so go ahead and repeat the tightening of adjuster screw. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again.

Each time you press on the cam chain with your thumb (and you see deflection in the chain), there is more chain slack remaining that you free up, and then remove by tightening the adjusting screw again. But it will probably only need 2 presses & tightening. By the 3rd press, you may see very little or no deflection when pressing down on the cam chain. When that happens you are done "pumping" the cam chain for slack. But always check one last time to see if the special tool has been tightened "snug" against the cam chain guide with low-to-medium force.

If you are more comfortable following the Service Manual, please do. You should always follow the Service Manual.
 
#2 ·
Because my 2023 xsr900 cp3 is a Gen 2 it has a tensioner best described as a "hydraulic cam chain tensioner with spring assist" I'm not exactly sure u can apply this technique yet on this OEM cp3 CCT (I'll b doing first valve adjust this fall at about 16K miles, we will see).

The tutorial I copied from is a CP2, it has a "hydraulic assisted spring cam chain tensioner".
 
#3 ·
Because my 2023 xsr900 cp3 is a Gen 2 it has a tensioner best described as a "hydraulic cam chain tensioner with spring assist" I'm not exactly sure u can apply this technique yet on this OEM cp3 CCT (I'll b doing first valve adjust this fall at about 16K miles, we will see).
It's not doable on the Gen3 tensioner, there's no way to manually force the shaft in further. It's a very different design to earlier years, it doesn't use a ratcheting mechanism, it uses a worm gear and there's no opening to allow access to 'screw' it in more.
 
#6 ·
I see people complaining about noisy cam chains - but I don't see any failures of the most current cam chain tensioner (like one in my '23 xsr900).

Unless that current tensioner design begins throwing failures, why would anyone replace the self adjusting OEM with a manual tensioner that you will have to nurse (adjust) for years to come?

Don't replace OEM parts like tensioners unless fails reports show up to justify it. imo
 
#8 ·
I'll give a reason not to go "APE" over manual aftermarket tensioners. This is a cut from my "how to valves" on fz7.org....


If you have ever wondered if a manual cam chain tensioner can replace the OEM - here is the APE manual tensioner on left and the spring assisted hydraulic OEM CCT on the right. The APE tensioner "body" is too small, the bike will lose oil pressure if the OEM is replaced with APE (APE pn#YTFZ09-PRO). I'll be asking for my $$ back - they said it will fit (physically it does, but the APE body is .933" and the OEM body is 1.003").

Image



Aftermarket does not mean improved sometimes.
 
#10 ·
The OEM tensioner on the earlier bikes also 'leaks' oil, since there's no oil seal inside the tensioner body where the shaft comes out, and there's also nothing sealing the tensioner body to the cylinder block. So in operation, some oil from the oil passage pisses out from around the tensioner body, and the oil that makes it into the tensioner pisses out the shaft.

A number of us on the forum have used MCCT's with no issues. I had an APE in my Gen1 for 65K miles, no oiling problems. The oil feed for the tensioner is branched off the oil passage going up towards the cams. If leakage from the APE tensioner were an issue, the cams would not live very long. We'd have threads about Yamaha cheese cams instead of ragging on KTM's, LOL

That said, peace of mind matters to most of us, so if something bothers you about the manual tensioners, then just stick with the OEM.

P.S. The Gen3 OEM tensioner design (basically same as the R1) is really interesting. Behind one of little screws is a tiny little pressure relief valve, which will cause an oil leak out through the gasket if it opens.
 
#11 ·
The OEM tensioner on the earlier bikes also 'leaks' oil, since there's no oil seal inside the tensioner body where the shaft comes out, and there's also nothing sealing the tensioner body to the cylinder block
Yep.
Mine failed at about 25,000mi give or take. It wasn't obvious at first, but I was getting oil spray on my boot and clutch cover. I couldn't see where it was coming from until I noticed a small drop under the center bolt for the CCT.
APE has been on ever since. I adjust it by ear and don't really worry about it.
 
#14 · (Edited)
does the gen3 tensioner fit on the gen 1?

Gen1 tensioner is 3 times modified now

1RC-122-100-100 > 1RC-122-100-104
 
#16 ·
The method for taking out the slack on the bench looks like a good idea.
My KLX250 has notorious issues with the tensioner, ratcheting over time, and manual tensioners are common.
I just let the bike come to operating temperature, and then back off the tensioner bolt to get the chain to rattle.
I then tighten by hand, and when I have just a slight rattle from the chain, it gets locked down.
I think this should eliminate excessive loading on the cam journals.
My little woods tractor is still thumping after almost 15 years of abuse.
 
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