Hold Select and Reset buttons, switch ignition to on whilst holding the buttons for a further 4 or so seconds.
You're then able to select CO or dIAG. Go into CO by pressing and holding both buttons for 2 seconds.

I believe this is for the MT only and not the FZ.

 

Hold Select and Reset buttons, switch ignition to on whilst holding the buttons for a further 4 or so seconds.
You're then able to select CO or dIAG. Go into CO by pressing and holding both buttons for 2 seconds.

I believe this is for the MT only and not the FZ.

Why do you have to calibrate CO? in what cases ??

 

I dont think you can in the US or so I hear?

A mate put this on another forum.

If you have a Euro or an MT-09 you can change the CO

Access Co/Diag menu -
Hold down both select/reset buttons. Turn key so dash comes on. Keep holding till diag appears. Press select to show CO.
Hold down both buttons and 1 will appear.
If you press select it will run through 1 then 2 then 3 cylinder.
On each of these hold down both buttons till 0 appears.
Now you can change it up.
Once done on that cylinder press both buttons and repeat for all.

edit: beat me by a minute @Rekt !

 

I believe the setting is only for the MT 09.

 

You can do this on other Yamaha's but don't know if it's only Euro models or not
or if it works on the MT-07

This is one of the 4's

 

co adjust can be done easily on mt's. on fz's, the co adjust needs to be done with the yamaha diagnostics tool which is supposed to only be available to dealers.

 

Has anyone running stock exhaust / ECU asked a dealer to adjust the CO settings on their FZ09? I was reading a thread on the UK forum which has a lot of comment about adjusting all three cylinders to a setting of 14, and this having a noticeable positive effect on throttle snatchiness, by it seems making richening the AFR (unless i'm reading it wrong which is quite possible). I'm tempted to try this (I'd do it myself if we could but it's one of the differences between MT and FZ) but before going to the dealer here I'd be interested to know if anyone has adjusted the settings and also feels it is worth doing.

Changing the CO settings in the DIAG menu [Archive] - Yamaha MT-09 / FZ-09 Forums - The largest Yamaha MT-09 / FZ-09 Forum on the Internet!

It's a looong thread so here are a couple of the more intriguing posts:

"I think 14 is the normal advice.
I dont think its power loss your feeling rather a smooter throttle with no jerkiness so it seems like less power. Triple Trouble you dynod it didnt you?

Yes mate we've dyno'd quite a few MT's now and they all run much smoother with no jerkiness with the CO set to 14 on all 3 cylinders."

AND

"Did you notice any difference when you rode it after you changed it ?

I did. Took from Gloucester to the Brecons for a spin, last night. Perfect evening. I stopped at various points to try different levels and I'm happiest with 14 (stock exhaust) the difference in 'B' is negligible but in 'A' it's remarkable. Throttle much less snatchy at low end and the smoothness when rolling on is significantly better. As long as the are no detrimental long-term effects (and why would Yamaha allow this kind of flexibility in the setup if there were.....) this is where my settings will stay. If it hadn't been for this thread, I'd probably never have known "

 

On my old WR we had to run a ground wire from the lean angle sensor to the negative battery terminal to access the the diagnostic/CO settings. I wonder if it's the same with the FZ???

 

What is the purpose of doing this? What is the CO?

 

It removes the snatchiness from the throttle response

 

CO = Carbon Monoxide

 

I thought I saw in another thread here, this indeed did work on US bikes as well? I have not tried myself yet...

And if we cant... WTF? Why do we not get to use the cool stuff?

 

I set mine to 14 then back to 5.I think at 14 you lose a little throttle response.Probably varies between bikes.I believe on some other Yamahas you can enable this function on a U.S. market bike by grounding a pin on the ECU.
My bike's an MT09.I'll see if I can find the thread and post a link.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192846

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-how-guides/15407-how-richen-lean-mixture-without-power-commander.html

 

I set mine to 14 then back to 5.I think at 14 you lose a little throttle response.Probably varies between bikes.I believe on some other Yamahas you can enable this function on a U.S. market bike by grounding a pin on the ECU.
My bike's an MT09.I'll see if I can find the thread and post a link.

Do you recall what yours was at stock, that you decided to go back to 5 after 14 not being right?

 

Any way to enable this feature on US bikes??? Saw some threads that FZ6 and FZ1 owners got it enabled...? Anyone willing to try?

Looks like need to locate "some" wire and ground it?

Enable Co Adjustment USA Only (Lean / Richen) - Yamaha FZ6 Forums - International FZ6 Motorcycle Community Forum

Opening CO Adjustment on US bikes - FZ1OA Message Board


Edit: haha I completely missed Pauls post above mine! Well, we are on the same page at least. Someone try it, im too scared.

 

I did this, changed to 14 on all cylinders. Promptly changed it back after a few rides. Makes the lean surge and smoothness of the throttle a bit better, but you lose some of that snappiness from my experience. Felt........doughier. And my fuel economy suffered.

Nobody, has given any type of firm answer to what it is that they are actually changing. I know it is fuel, because I could smell how rich the bloody exhaust was with each increase in value. But what ranges? What rpm does it alter values at? Just closed loop? All the time? Nobody knows. But everybody is doing it. Counter intuitive.

And I had the weird result also of increased engine temp. Not worth it IMHO. Leave it up to the PCV or a dyno tune.

 

I did this, changed to 14 on all cylinders. Promptly changed it back after a few rides. Makes the lean surge and smoothness of the throttle a bit better, but you lose some of that snappiness from my experience. Felt........doughier. And my fuel economy suffered.

you don't have to set it to 14, you can set it to a lower value if you want. just try some intermediate values and find the best compromise.

 

Just saw this on one of the R6 threads. So does C1-C2-C3 on MT/FZ actually refer to the individual cylinders, like most people including me seem to assume, or does it refer to throttle/RPM bands? But in that case why only three bands not four?

"I found this in one of the yamaha proformance books.

A: Fuel injection Adjustment
Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:
Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less
of engine speed
Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or
more of engine speed
Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening
Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening

Before changing the settings, check the engine for its characteristics in normal condition.
It is recommended that the settings be checked with an A/F measuring instrument.
Guidelines for setting
• Code C1: At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed:
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during races.
Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.
• Code C2: At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and at initial
throttle opening.
Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any resulting
changes.
• Code C3: At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening.
Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.
• Code C4: At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle.
Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown.
Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended.
In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1 to 2% at a
time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.
Throttle opening (%)"

 

On the MT/FZ it refers to cylinders over the entire rev range.On certain fours (the FZ 6 I think) it does refer to rev bands as well because those bike apparently have pairs of injectors running from only 2 outputs on the ECU.

 

I imagine the USA's emmision policies require a fixxed setting in the favor of their criteria... Otherwise yamaha wouldbt go through tge trouble of making differences in tge mt/fz aside from the letters on the plastic.

I wish i had B mode 1st gear in A mode and 2nd gear's tip in a little smoother... Bike would ve perfect.

 

I am amazed there are any emission requirements in US. Last time I visited there (from Denmark), it felt like monster truck show on the public road. No offence, i for one would have loved the same here, instead of being forced into smaller and smaller cars.

 

Has anybody figured out if the dealer can change the Co settings? Seems like in Europe the dealers adjust this for more fuel in the mixture when they install a new exhaust. Maybe running to lean with all this aftermarket exhausts is whats causing all those valve problems everybody is having... I really hate that the FZ is inferior in so many ways compared to the MT.

 

Ok, I got it, the dealer CAN adjust the Co settings on the FZ by using the Yamaha diagnostic tool 90890-03215, it says so in the service manual, yet it doesnt explain how because the diagnostics tool has its own separate manual. Apparently you can buy this tool for around $200 to $300. Anybody has access to one of this? Any info?

 

Can anyone confirm that the diag menu is still available on the 2016 model? I'm having trouble accessing it and want to verify if it's me or the bike that has a problem

 

You could only access the CO settings on the MT09, not the FZ.
Can't trust you Americans.

 

I'm trying on the 2016 MT-09 ABS model with TC.

 

Well that should make it easier.
I've got a 14, and haven't tried on a 16.

 

There is no self diagnosis on the Australian MT09 2016 with TCS model, you can not get either CO or Diag screen up on the dash, damn annoying when you tinker like I do & need to clear the faults from time to time, now I need a scan tool to do the job.

 

for a BMC airfilter and akrapovic without a cat , its still good to set CO to 14 ?

 

I never adjust the CO in the dash, at +14 in the dash your cold starting & idling A/F ratio is around 11.5:1 to 12:1 measured on my 2014 MT09, which is way too rich.

 

Any news related to the CO on the 2016 MT09? Have to wait until the weekend before I can try it by myself