Yamaha FZ-09 Forum banner
21 - 40 of 52 Posts
I just want to clear up any misconceptions about how a chain works. This picture is from RK chains
Image

The O, X & W... sealed chains have grease in them to lubricate between the Pin and bushing, which move relative to each other as the chain goes into and out of mesh at the sprockets.
The grease also lubricates the O-ring (seal) as the inner and outer plates also move relative to each other. The seals job is to retain the tiny amount grease.

The final moving part is the roller that wraps around the bushing. It turns relative to the bushing when the chain goes in and out of mesh with the sprockets and has NO trapped lubricant. This is where chain lubricant comes in. It needs to be an oil or solid lubricant of some kind that is compatible with the O-ring and can penetrate into the tiny gap.

A word about the seal. RK states that the seal is Nitrile Butadiene. A widely used seal material and is therefore relatively cheap. It is good, but not the best, so treat it kindly. Keep grunge brushes away from it, the hairs can slide between the side plates and o-ring and damage the seal. Might even let out some of the trapped grease and push in particles of sand/grit.

ME? I never clean them, only lube them.

Best lube method is a totally enclosed chain dipping into a bath of oil.
Next best is one that supplies a small amount of oil on a continuous basis, when moving.
Next best, chain lube.
Worst - nothing
Next worse - nothing plus cleaning
 
I use a softer brush than the grunge brush. The ones from the dollar store work just fine as well as being much cheaper. I've been using Dupont chain saver for lube, which when allowed to set up does not fling at all. I have a few cans on hand and when depleted I am going to go with the scottoiler. Been toying with that idea for a while and time to take the plunge! From what I have read, it reduces the frequency of cleaning needed, which to me is one messy ordeal that I will not miss!
 
I can vouch for Motul spray lube, its relatively thin but sticky stuff. If you apply it sparingly as intended, it really doesn't sling off at all.

I am curious about the Maxima chain wax. I used to have a product for bicycle chains called Clean Ride. It was a dissolved wax product. The idea was once applied, the solvent flashes off leaving the wax behind. That wax lubes but also suspends dirt and it flakes off taking the dirt with it. I don't know if it would be a good idea for motorcycles however.
 
I use a softer brush than the grunge brush. The ones from the dollar store work just fine as well as being much cheaper. I've been using Dupont chain saver for lube, which when allowed to set up does not fling at all. I have a few cans on hand and when depleted I am going to go with the scottoiler. Been toying with that idea for a while and time to take the plunge! From what I have read, it reduces the frequency of cleaning needed, which to me is one messy ordeal that I will not miss!
The Amazon brushes are much softer than the No-toil brushes. I take a can of Dupont with me on the road
 
I use DuPont Chain Saver. Not much clean up is needed. I plan on changing my chain and sprockets at 15K mikes. I think +1 on the rea4 sprocket will put me right where I want to be.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Has anyone tried the wd40 dry lube? I bought a can just to have on hand and I’m curious how it would do on my chain
No but from reading the homepage I'm curious to know how it translate to the real world. Please update once you've tried it 🤓
 
On threads like this responses will come from all over the map, because nearly every bike rider lubes their own chain, even the guys who don't even change their own oil. And frequently opinions are stated as if they're established fact. So take everything with a grain of salt. Or several grains of salt. I personally use a spray-on chain wax and brush it in with an old toothbrush. I hardly ever clean it, but I live in San Jose, CA and don't ride in the rain and hardly ever ride in the dirt. Here's a photo from my 2014 FZ-09 Service Manual. Notice the ten-minute limit for soaking with kerosene:
Image
 
Most of us know what I'm posting here and maybe I missed seeing it in this thread. But never assume...

Arguably, THE most important point of chain maintenance: When to do it

Right after a ride is best.

The chain is hot then. That means the debris is easier to remove (whatever your poison).

Additionally, the lube flows around the surface of the rollers and seeps around the oring and side-plate shared surface better.

DO NOT ride the bike immediately following a lube. FLING-OFF WILL OCCUR! Give it time to stabilize. Your brightly colored rims won't go unsightly.

Signed;
Mr Obvious
 
The final moving part is the roller that wraps around the bushing. It turns relative to the bushing when the chain goes in and out of mesh with the sprockets and has NO trapped lubricant. This is where chain lubricant comes in. It needs to be an oil or solid lubricant of some kind that is compatible with the O-ring and can penetrate into the tiny gap.
Exactly ... many don't comprehend this aspect of chain lubrication. I've used Maxima Chain Wax for decades and it's always worked well for me, typically lasting 250 to 300 miles before the outside of the rollers (that contact the sprockets) start getting dry and shiny. Any lubricant like Maxima Chain Wax that can penetrate and wicks into the sides and under the center rollers does a good job at keeping lube under the center rollers.
 
21 - 40 of 52 Posts