I would go by the chain manufacturer. They'll know their product better.

 

The first post is the Instructions from RK Chains - OE for Yamaha?

 

Kerosene is fine to use. I've always used WD-40 to clean my chains without any problems. I wouldn't use any harsh solvents though.

 

Stock chain used to be a (low specs) DID.

Personally I did switch from grease to thick gear oil because I found it more convenient as long as - sticking with 500km intervals - I can apply a little amount of oil with a brush and the chain is well lubed & clean up at the same time; no need to use kerosene anymore to clean the chain. I do dry up the excess with a paper towel or a rug and I'm done. To clean the rim from oil spray, a paper towel is a fast task (with grease I should use a degreaser and spend more time working).
To keep chain/sprocket lubricated during several days trips I have the Tutoro chain oiler from my previous bike and it works fine, but after the rain it's mandatory to apply extra oil, as mentioned before, so I carry a little extra reservoir with me, just in case.
I use a super thick gear oil (Mobil 85W-140) to reduce the spray and excess from the oiler when it's very hot.

Speaking of confusing info, Regina Chain suggests to lubricate with oil (instead of grease like the others manufacturers do)... So I guess it's up to us picking what works better for ourselves.

 

I've switched to using Motul chain clean and chain lube (road). The chain clean is efficient at getting gunk off the chain and the road chain lube is super sticky. I have more confidence in the road chain lube to last 500 miles between lubes under normal circumstance due to its super stickiness. I don't know how Motul's chain clean compares in regards to degradation of the chain over time, but I trust that Motul makes quality products and it works well for it's intended purpose, so I guess that is good enough for me.

 

Is it ok or not to use kerosene to clean the chain?

Kerosene is great for cleaning chains. Your owners manual, and Honda manuals going back 50 years mention kerosene.

If you do a search for parts-washer, you will find statements like "Kerosene: A petroleum-based solvent that is effective at removing greases and oils."
And it is cheap, get a gallon at Walmart and and old paint brush, cardboard under the wheel and you are good to go.

That warning was likely written by attorney cover their ass for liability for fire (gasoline, kerosene) or some idiot uses acid, etc.
Steel is steel, regardless of who made the chain. Kerosene is great for cleaning steel parts and chains.

 

Motul chain products here as well.
I treat my chain like I treat my dishes at home; I clean them immediately after I use them. Makes the job so much quicker and easier.

 

Chalk up another for Motul's chain care kit (road). If a chain is really dirty, ill do an initial clean with kero as not to use up a ton of the Motul cleaner. Very happy with Motul products so far. I use pretty much everything Motul.

 

Kerosine is the best imo for this job

 

Kerosene is recommended because it has minor lubricating properties which is good for seal life. But best of all is a chain oiler, it lubricates and keeps the chain clean.

 

I read an article that made sense saying that it's not all that necessary. I've never cleaned mine and only lube it once every month or 2. I changed my chain at around 25,000 miles and it wasn't in bad shape and my sprockets weren't in bad shape either. I have a can of BelRay chain cleaner that my GF gave me for Christmas about 5 years ago. If anyone is in Swansea Ma, stop by and you can have it.

 

I read an article that made sense saying that it's not all that necessary. I've never cleaned mine and only lube it once every month or 2.

I am kind of over-the-top on chain maintenance, because when i was in my 20's I neglected a chain that broke on me getting on a highway on ramp when I gunned it. Totally my fault, I just never looked at it - rarely lubed it. You are good to go as you keep some lube on it, which helps preserve the O-rings.

The benefit of a cleaner, is you see so much dirt rinsing away. Using cheap kerosene, all this grit washes away, which I consider a "grinding paste".
Of course most of the dirt is just on the outer plates and doesn't really hurt anything when it is dirty.
But the moving parts... I would prefer they were clean before I lubed on top of grit.

 

Kerosene is great for cleaning as long as you don’t mind the smell. I use a 50/50 mix of 90 weight gear oil and Lucas oil stabilizer. It’s really easy to clean off with just a brush and rag. I just keep wiping until the rag stops getting dirty and apply a thin coating of lube to the whole chain, then a nice easy wipe with a clean rag

 

I use kerosene and Maxima lube kit. The scrub brushes can be found on Amazon.

 

Did you also not like the Yamaha brand lube I see in the back? I found it to be very dirty looking and flung off quickly. I started putting it on the off-road chains until it’s gone

 

It begs the question. What's the cleanest lube? Because the crap I'm using throws itself all over my rim, and I take a towel to it after spraying it to clean off all the excess.

(Chain side)

(Brake side)

 

I was using Belray and it was clean. Then I switched and it even worse than yours.

 

Wax. In my opinion. Coats the plates keeping them from corrosion, all the lube that matters is already inside the o-rings anyway.

 

I've been buying DID chains exclusively for ... 15 years? Always cleaned with kero and had no issues. I had to replace the stock chain on my 09 at only 8,000 miles due to it developing kinks. Kinks so bad that you could feel them thumping. Dissected the kinked areas and all the orings were hard as a rock. Grease was still inside and the pins were fine, the seals were like hard plastic, though.

DID orings don't age well anymore, or they can't withstand kero anymore? Who knows. Things change and you gotta stay on your toes. What worked last year might not play out next time.

 

Kerosene and brush to clean, rinse off, dry and Wurth dry lube afterwards.

I'd have thought any chain cleaner in a can is gasoline based anyway making the argument between kerosene or motul cleaner fairly moot.

 

I just want to clear up any misconceptions about how a chain works. This picture is from RK chains

The O, X & W... sealed chains have grease in them to lubricate between the Pin and bushing, which move relative to each other as the chain goes into and out of mesh at the sprockets.
The grease also lubricates the O-ring (seal) as the inner and outer plates also move relative to each other. The seals job is to retain the tiny amount grease.

The final moving part is the roller that wraps around the bushing. It turns relative to the bushing when the chain goes in and out of mesh with the sprockets and has NO trapped lubricant. This is where chain lubricant comes in. It needs to be an oil or solid lubricant of some kind that is compatible with the O-ring and can penetrate into the tiny gap.

A word about the seal. RK states that the seal is Nitrile Butadiene. A widely used seal material and is therefore relatively cheap. It is good, but not the best, so treat it kindly. Keep grunge brushes away from it, the hairs can slide between the side plates and o-ring and damage the seal. Might even let out some of the trapped grease and push in particles of sand/grit.

ME? I never clean them, only lube them.

Best lube method is a totally enclosed chain dipping into a bath of oil.
Next best is one that supplies a small amount of oil on a continuous basis, when moving.
Next best, chain lube.
Worst - nothing
Next worse - nothing plus cleaning

 

The final moving part is the roller that wraps around the bushing. It turns relative to the bushing when the chain goes in and out of mesh with the sprockets and has NO trapped lubricant. This is where chain lubricant comes in. It needs to be an oil or solid lubricant of some kind that is compatible with the O-ring and can penetrate into the tiny gap.

Exactly ... many don't comprehend this aspect of chain lubrication. I've used Maxima Chain Wax for decades and it's always worked well for me, typically lasting 250 to 300 miles before the outside of the rollers (that contact the sprockets) start getting dry and shiny. Any lubricant like Maxima Chain Wax that can penetrate and wicks into the sides and under the center rollers does a good job at keeping lube under the center rollers.

 

I use a softer brush than the grunge brush. The ones from the dollar store work just fine as well as being much cheaper. I've been using Dupont chain saver for lube, which when allowed to set up does not fling at all. I have a few cans on hand and when depleted I am going to go with the scottoiler. Been toying with that idea for a while and time to take the plunge! From what I have read, it reduces the frequency of cleaning needed, which to me is one messy ordeal that I will not miss!

 

The Amazon brushes are much softer than the No-toil brushes. I take a can of Dupont with me on the road

 

I can vouch for Motul spray lube, its relatively thin but sticky stuff. If you apply it sparingly as intended, it really doesn't sling off at all.

I am curious about the Maxima chain wax. I used to have a product for bicycle chains called Clean Ride. It was a dissolved wax product. The idea was once applied, the solvent flashes off leaving the wax behind. That wax lubes but also suspends dirt and it flakes off taking the dirt with it. I don't know if it would be a good idea for motorcycles however.

 

+1 for Motul products.
I never loved the Maxima branded products, the chain cleaner comes out like a cannon and gets everywhere, also the formula wreaks afterward as Kerosine does. The chain wax itself has a yellow tint when applied.

 

How bad is your chain? When did you observe that it has streched points?Mine has 0.5mm free play difference around at 8000Kms

 

I use DuPont Chain Saver. Not much clean up is needed. I plan on changing my chain and sprockets at 15K mikes. I think +1 on the rea4 sprocket will put me right where I want to be.

 

Has anyone tried the wd40 dry lube? I bought a can just to have on hand and I’m curious how it would do on my chain

 

No but from reading the homepage I'm curious to know how it translate to the real world. Please update once you've tried it 🤓

Dry Lube Spray - Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube | WD-40

Reduce friction and provide long-lasting lubrication with the dry lube spray from WD-40. This formula dries quickly and resists dirt and dust. WD-40 Dry Lube Spray is great for door and window tracks, slides, belts, rollers and hinges.

www.wd40.com

 

This thread reminds me of removing, cleaning and then soaking old non-O Ring chains in melted waxy chain lube every 1000 kms or so.