[Hawkerjet]

This one is great to relieve the cornfusion.

 

[Hawkerjet]

About 3 weeks ago I hit a rock a bit larger than the size of a fist at about 40mph on the left side of my front wheel. It put an almost unnoticeable bend on the lip of the wheel on the left side.

I dont know if the bike always handled like this or not, but when I let go of the handlebars the bikes starts going left, enough that i have to lean my body to the right to keep it straight.

Did something get misaligned or do all these bikes handle that way?

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Most likely your back wheel is tracking towards the outside (right side) of a left turn.

Loosen your axel nut on the rear wheel and adjust the right side adjuster screw in one full turn. Tighten the adjuster and axel nut and go for a test ride. Get on a nice long flat road and ride in the center where the crown does not go to the right of left. Get into top gear around 50 mph or so and let go of the bars again to see if the left turn tenancy has improved. Make sure it is not a windy day as this will through off your result.

 

[TeddyShotgun]

This one is great to relieve the cornfusion.

Wow thanks that clears alot up! Ill try this method soon as I can.

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[dcpppf]

Buddy had a similar problem this past summer... Turns out it was because he was riding with his wallet in his ass pocket...

 

[Chinook]

About 3 weeks ago I hit a rock a bit larger than the size of a fist at about 40mph on the left side of my front wheel. It put an almost unnoticeable bend on the lip of the wheel on the left side.

I dont know if the bike always handled like this or not, but when I let go of the handlebars the bikes starts going left, enough that i have to lean my body to the right to keep it straight.

Did something get misaligned or do all these bikes handle that way?

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

When I first read the Headline my first thought the cause was your rear wheel is slightly pitched to the right. After reading about the impact I suggest loosening every bolt on the triple clamps top and bottom (not the the center shaft) even loosen the front wheel spindle and wiggle things around back and forth then re-center everything as if you were assembling it from scratch.

Other than that "quit leaning left".

 

[Chinook]

Oh, yeah test the run-out on that front.

MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATION
Steel type wheel (radial) (average of LH & RH)	0.6 mm ( 0.024 in )
Steel type wheel (axial)	1.0 mm ( 0.039 in )
Aluminum type wheel (radial)	0.3 mm ( 0.012 in )
Aluminum type wheel (axial)	0.3 mm ( 0.012 in )

 

[TeddyShotgun]

When I first read the Headline my first thought the cause was your rear wheel is slightly pitched to the right. After reading about the impact I suggest loosening every bolt on the triple clamps top and bottom (not the the center shaft) even loosen the front wheel spindle and wiggle things around back and forth then re-center everything as if you were assembling it from scratch.

Other than that "quit leaning left".

Never done that before, but I'm assuming loosening everything will allow the forks to fall back in place if they got twisted?

So just loosen the triple clamps, wiggle things around from the handlebars and just straighten wheel and retighten?

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[Chinook]

1. Yeah just loosen the 8 bolts that clamp the forks (the bottom one more) top one just enough to allow spin but don't fall out. Front wheel off the ground of course. The wiggle I speak of is either from the from wheel or the bars. I just want to break it free the components from the current position back and forth, then center the bars and wheel and clamp bolts slightly fine tuning the truest center you can (sometimes having a swimsuit model sitting on the bike holding the bars completely square helps). Look from the front to the back then side to side. Tighten the front wheel spindle then the clamp bolts, but always keep checking along the way. When happy torque to specs. Assuming all parts in the suspension are true and not bent. It should be square enough by a long shot.

might help - might not

But it will eliminate that as a problem. The other could be a centrifugal force cause by the axial wheel damage if it's no longer true thus the runout test with a dial indicator. .012/0.3mm is your max. twelve thousandths of inch or three tenths of a millimeter. Anything outside that buy a new wheel. Better yet buy some really cool wheels - the excuse you've been looking for.

 

[Moto26]

Never done that before, but I'm assuming loosening everything will allow the forks to fall back in place if they got twisted?

So just loosen the triple clamps, wiggle things around from the handlebars and just straighten wheel and retighten?

Question: When you hit that rock, did you hit it so hard you saw your life flash in front of you, and you can't even believe you didn't crash?

 

[TeddyShotgun]

1. Yeah just loosen the 8 bolts that clamp the forks (the bottom one more) top one just enough to allow spin but don't fall out. Front wheel off the ground of course. The wiggle I speak of is either from the from wheel or the bars. I just want to break it free the components from the current position back and forth, then center the bars and wheel and clamp bolts slightly fine tuning the truest center you can (sometimes having a swimsuit model sitting on the bike holding the bars completely square helps). Look from the front to the back then side to side. Tighten the front wheel spindle then the clamp bolts, but always keep checking along the way. When happy torque to specs. Assuming all parts in the suspension are true and not bent. It should be square enough by a long shot.

might help - might not

But it will eliminate that as a problem. The other could be a centrifugal force cause by the axial wheel damage if it's no longer true thus the runout test with a dial indicator. .012/0.3mm is your max. twelve thousandths of inch or three tenths of a millimeter. Anything outside that buy a new wheel. Better yet buy some really cool wheels - the excuse you've been looking for.

Will try aligning the rear wheel first to see if that removes the problem. Dont think the impact was strong enough to push the forks out of alignment.

The wheel has the tiniest bend to it but will check the runout just in case.

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[Chinook]

Will try aligning the rear wheel first to see if that removes the problem. Dont think the impact was strong enough to push the forks out of alignment.

The wheel has the tiniest bend to it but will check the runout just in case.

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Check on both sides.

 

[Chinook]

Wow thanks that clears alot up! Ill try this method soon as I can.

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I like this, but it doesn't take into account the damaged geometry of the front suspension. What if the impact tweaked the the triple clamps, I doubt this but lets take that into account for exercise anyway. Lets say the left fork is pushed back 1-2 mms. What would that do? That's right, pitch the front wheel left. The only reason your bike would turn handsfree at 30-50 miles hour is the geometry of the front wheel is no longer square at a right angle to the rear axle period. Motorcycles by design will maintain a strait line without a rider unless they hit something or speed is reduced to a wobble. Hmm? Check fork seals on the left fork also. Weak pressure on one fork maybe could have the effect you are seeing. That's a reach.

 

[TeddyShotgun]

So this is the setup I rigged up, hopefully should provide accurate results.

Pretty obvious the rear wheel is facing towards the right, which would cause the bike to countersteer left.

Will update soon on the results.

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[Moto26]

Definitely enough to be noticeable! Fixing that will certainly help...

 

[Chinook]

Fixable. So fix it. Let us know how it goes. PS. Torque that sucker to the proper 110 foot pounds when your done.

 

[dcpppf]

Fixable. So fix it. Let us know how it goes. PS. Torque that sucker to the proper 110 foot pounds when your done.

Please do not torque that sucker to 110 ft lbs when you're done! There have been a fairly large group of us who have had the axle nuts seize and the axle blocks strip out b/c of it leading us to have to cut the axle off and replace.

Here are a couple of links to threads on the topic. Be warned!

Axle Fused to Axle Nut. Big problems.

I went to remove my axle nut and found out it's fused to the axle itself. The passenger side is all messed up because the axle spun and gouged out the axle block which I assume is soft aluminum. I found this out when I was 5 hours from home. The axle was a little loose on my ride, and the spot...

www.fz09.org

Rear Axle/Nut Failure; how?

So the other day I went to loosen my rear axle nut and after putting some muscle in to it I felt it give but the nut wasn't loosening. Checked the other side and the axle carrier on my eBay chain sliders had stripped out. I assumed that they were just cheap and failed. Well after two nights, a...

www.fz09.org

 

[Chinook]

A little anit-seize would help with that. Also if you use a spring-load torque wrench make sure its back off to 0 lbs when not in use. I guess you could back down to 100lbs if makes you feel better. I'm sure the torque spec has something to do with the powerful torque force these bikes put on the drive side in mind. There is alot of force wanting to pull that sprocket side forward. Just a thought.