[Paul G]

They can say what they want about no weight on the motorcycle, but I have seen it hundreds and hundreds of times over the years. When you sit on the bike, the chain will tighten up as you compress the suspension. If you adjust it tight enough, your suspension travel will run out of room.....Period!

The chain will be at it's tightest point when the output shaft sprocket,the swingarm pivot shaft and the read axle are all in a straight line.

 

[520FZ09]

The chain will be at it's tightest point when the output shaft sprocket,the swingarm pivot shaft and the read axle are all in a straight line.

agreed.

 

[triplethreat]

I agree Paul G and 520FZ09......and when you look at the straight line, it only happens when the rear suspension is compressed quite a bit of the travel. So if you start out with say .6" when on the side stand and then get on the bike it will tighten the chain. When you hit a bump it will tighten it even further. And like I said, if you start off with the chain too tight, you might just end up with the chain being so tight during a bump, that it inhibits the rear suspension travel.

 

[DNFDOUG]

It is also hard on the dogs of the transmission. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Janx101]

That's not informative Douglas! ... how do you know?? [emoji14]

 

[porsche996]

Thanks, I hang out here from time to time.
Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site

Lots of interesting stuff if your into oil/filters/technowiennie stuff like I am.

If you hang out there from time to time, how in the hell did you get it in your head "viscosity thickens as the oil heats up", or whatever assinine backpedaling attempt to cover up your stupidity...??

Oil viscosity never "thickens". Viscosity is a unit of measurement... It doesn't do, well, anything. That's like saying your yardstick grows when you measure something...

Oil always thins as it gets hotter. ALWAYS. Multi-weight oil has additives to make it THINNER at lower temperature, because it's too damn thick to do any good for the engine at startup. Grab a 30W or higher base oil, and it's damn near the consistency of maple syrup... Great for gear oil where it doesn't have to be pumped through small holes, but useless for engine oil.

I gave you benefit of the doubt for over filling your engine oil by roughly 45%, but seriously, quit the long winded diatribes about things you can't possibly understand, when you don't even understand what the hell the numbers on an oil bottle stand for.

 

[porsche996]

I agree Paul G and 520FZ09......and when you look at the straight line, it only happens when the rear suspension is compressed quite a bit of the travel. So if you start out with say .6" when on the side stand and then get on the bike it will tighten the chain. When you hit a bump it will tighten it even further. And like I said, if you start off with the chain too tight, you might just end up with the chain being so tight during a bump, that it inhibits the rear suspension travel.

In theory, the engineers should have set the slack number to an amount that will still allow for enough slack when the suspension its compressed. The number they give unloaded it's just the number needed to still have the slack loaded. It's just easier to measure when it's unloaded.

I haven't checked my chain closely enough to know if the 0.6" its really enough to still have slack when compressed. I normally just loosen the chain to around an inch, and then slowly tighten it up if I'm noticing any backlash or clanking issues... Not the most scientific, but chain slack its the least consistent thing between bikes; no two are every set the exact same.

 

[CD599]

In theory, the engineers should have set the slack number to an amount that will still allow for enough slack when the suspension its compressed. The number they give unloaded it's just the number needed to still have the slack loaded. It's just easier to measure when it's unloaded.

I haven't checked my chain closely enough to know if the 0.6" its really enough to still have slack when compressed. I normally just loosen the chain to around an inch, and then slowly tighten it up if I'm noticing any backlash or clanking issues... Not the most scientific, but chain slack its the least consistent thing between bikes; no two are every set the exact same.

We've already proven that the 07-07 measurement is NOT enough..and is a mistake in the book. That is why EVERY motorcycle's chain slack should be checked while sitting on the bike.

 

[Adjuster]

If you hang out there from time to time, how in the hell did you get it in your head "viscosity thickens as the oil heats up", or whatever assinine backpedaling attempt to cover up your stupidity...??

Oil viscosity never "thickens". Viscosity is a unit of measurement... It doesn't do, well, anything. That's like saying your yardstick grows when you measure something...

Oil always thins as it gets hotter. ALWAYS. Multi-weight oil has additives to make it THINNER at lower temperature, because it's too damn thick to do any good for the engine at startup. Grab a 30W or higher base oil, and it's damn near the consistency of maple syrup... Great for gear oil where it doesn't have to be pumped through small holes, but useless for engine oil.

I gave you benefit of the doubt for over filling your engine oil by roughly 45%, but seriously, quit the long winded diatribes about things you can't possibly understand, when you don't even understand what the hell the numbers on an oil bottle stand for.

Just as long as it pours/pumps well when cold, and lubricates/protects the bearings at operating temps, I'm happy.
As to your opinion of me? Well, everyone knows when you start calling names, you've lost.

If you don't like how I explained it, that multi-weight oil should pump like it's thin when cold, and protect like a thicker oil when hot, I'm sorry it bursts your bubble, and it's not technically correct. (But it's how it works where it counts, in the engine.)

I get it, oil becomes thinner at higher temps than low. Duh. However, unless you have the time and money to pre-heat your vehicle/bike before every ride, using straight weight grade oil is going to be difficult, and might even cause more wear and tear.
In the real world, you need to be able to start up from a cold condition, and still have the pressure needed to float the crank and other bearings, and protect all the moving surfaces, and multi-grade oils are great for that use where they "act" thinner when cold, and thicker when hot. (Even though the reality is they are clearly thickest when cold, and thinner when hot, but don't ACT that way.)

How about you act nice instead of calling names?

 

[Adjuster]

PS: By act, I mean they provide rated levels of lubrication at the temps tested by the industry.. blah blah blah...

 

[Harsay]

Adjuster, drain the extra quart of oil, will you? And quit arguing with everyone? Please?
Thank you.

 

[Screamingyellow]

Adjuster, drain the extra quart of oil, will you? And quit arguing with everyone? Please?
Thank you.

He already stated he would drain a quart.

Multi viscosity oil partially counteracts the process of oil thinning as it heats up. Adjuster didn't figure in the natural thinning of the oil with heat but seems to understand the process overall. This shouldn't have been a big deal. No doubt compressing the rear suspension effects chain tension. Most of us that have been around motorcycles for a while know this. That isn't what all the drama is about. I'm going to go with 3 quarts on my next oil change based on Adjuster's findings and for that I thank him. Let's please relax with the lynch mob mentality. The general attitude in this forum is great and let's keep it that way please.

 

[CD599]

.............. I'm going to go with 3 quarts on my next oil change based on Adjuster's findings and for that I thank him.

Wait....did I read that right?

 

[Janx101]

~Facepalm~ .... there's always a junkyard dog.... let it go bro!

 

[Yoyodyne]

Orwell would have loved this thread..."Good news, citizens! The choco ration has been raised to 20 grams per week!"

 

[broncsrule21]

Cant believe this thread still is going..Oil threads on brand and viscosity are one thing. But adding MORE than a quart than the manufacture recommends doesn't need much discussion IMHO. Peace

 

[Spacecoast]

Well, I look at this thread on the bright side...for I will never ever forget the exact correct amount of oil to use. (three quarts right, wait...)

 

[Screamingyellow]

Wait....did I read that right?

Yes I'm going to run about 5 ounces of extra oil. Stop the presses. +1 on Janx101's let it go...

 

[BMcEL]

Yes I'm going to run about 5 ounces of extra oil. Stop the presses. +1 on Janx101's let it go...

You can put 60psi in your tires too if you want. You know Adjuster is having engine problems now, right?

 

[Screamingyellow]

You can put 60psi in your tires too if you want. You know Adjuster is having engine problems now, right?

I'm sorry to hear of Adjuster's problems. I was concerned about him running 4 quarts. Are his problems related to oil level?

Comparing running 60 lbs of air pressure in tires to 5 ounces of extra oil is just silly. After 40 years of motorcycling I go by the sight glass and the extra 5 ounces amount to about 1/8" difference in level and still easily readable in the sight glass. I think we need something else to worry about.