Try a can of liquid wrench.

 

Maybe heat up the outer muffler flange that fits over the mid pipe so it expands, then pull it or give it some taps with a mallet.

 

What is wrong with the ceramic??

Ceramic is generally verrry thin, it shouldn't have been too difficult to install.


Heating the connection may help...

 

The best way I can describe it is after a few heat cycles it gets really rough and then to the eye it appears to fracture. Here is a picture.

So this company recoats frying pans with Teflon and they thought the worker got lazy and didn't purge the system and contaminated the pipes. But last week I sent just the header down for them to recoat and sure enough after the weekend of riding its already doing it again.

The product they used was Air cure. This time they went out and bought Heat cure. They are using me as a guinea pig as they currently have a couple hundred turbo down pipes waiting to be treated. But they put the project on hold until they can determine the cause or see the results of the heat cure.

 

Could this coating issue have caused it to fuse to the midpipe?

 

Wow. All of mine is air cure.... Never seen anything like that!!!

 

Fizzer, neither have they. They are shocked and have treated this situation like a doctor might review all the notes and procedures used in surgery. I am very impressed with their customer service and the fact that they have not given up.

I just need to get this darn can off the mid pipe.

 

I work at a Hospital and I'll tell you now, Doctors can bury their mistakes.

 

They may need to buy you a new exhaust

 

If I can't get the can off my options are limited.

1. Leave it as is and be pissed forever while it continues to get worse
2. Buy a whole new system. Ugh!
3. I guess I could have them media blast off all visible coating and then polish it. Which is the cheapest option but definitely goes against the look I wanted.

 

Blech...

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You can give the them the whole system and ask them to separate it.

 

I tried that but they don't want the liability. Actually the guy I'm working with said he would be concerned that their workers wouldn't treat them like their own and would probably damage them in the process. I can respect that but it still doesn't help. I may have to push the issue for them to separate the two and return to me a flawless coated system or replace with new on their dime.

I think Fizzer is right. I'm no strong man but if I can't even get them to twist I think they might be fused together.

 

I've gotten a bit more mellow in my dotage, but I would press for a complete replacement pronto.
They can keep the old system for whatever "studies" they choose. But, why should you suffer any downtime
because of their ineptitude?

I asked a question regarding the slip fit between canister and mid-pipe after coating, way back when.

 

I've always had slip fit pipes coated, with no issues. This is baffling. Sad that this guy won't help, because he ADMITS his guys will probably screw it up. And thinks that his lazy employees are the ones that caused the issue. Sounds like a shop to avoid.

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Why doesn't HE take charge, instead of making his admittedly inept employees the excuse?

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^^^Point taken. I will push for replacement and see where I get.

 

Spent another half hour trying to free it up tonight. Nada!

 

Crapppp!!!

 

Is the whole system off the bike currently? ... if so... when you are whacking it with whatever, is the other section hard mounted/held to anything? ... even a little free movement will reduce your impact force a LOT! ! Or torque force for that matter....

Whatever bit you are whacking/yanking at, the other end needs to be anchored!!!

 

^^^For that very reason I have not taken it off the bike yet. When I tried to separate the can the last time the system was off the bike and I quickly realized exactly the point you are making. So this time I have been trying to work it off while the system is mounted, other than the last strap that holds the can to the rearset bracket.

 

I'll jump in here to say that when presented with a similar issue, using a combination of heat and cold worked for me.
An example would be putting bearings in the freezer. I was lucky enough to have a store down the road from me that
sold dry ice, which of course worked quicker than putting a part in the freezer overnight.

So, with that said, I would source some dry ice and strap a couple of pieces to the mid-pipe close'ish to where it fits at the canister and
leave it there until you can't stand it any longer. Of course, the dry ice will burn the crap out of you if you handle it with bare hands.
Remove the ice, then I would use a small butane torch and heat the canister-side of the pipe briefly and then give it a wack.
If that doesn't work, then tell the fokls that did the coating you want a new system and he can have the old one.

Of course, I'm no expert and I might be woefully wrong on this.

 

Another alternative to dry ice is the 'keyboard cleaner air cans'. if you flip them over upside down and spray them, it will blast very cold air out. I've used this method on steering head bearing races and some other things where I've ran into stubborn bearings...seems to work really well for me.

 

What about using a couple of strap wrenches? One on each section maybe? At least I think they are called that. If I remember correctly the exhaust has a little demple in it also to help stay put?

 

Broke one on it last night. I cannot believe how difficult this is.

 

This shop really created a problem. I'd send them a bill

 

Agreed. However I hate to think a perfectly functional exhaust system is useless just because of a cosmetic issue.

And now it has become somewhat of a challenge. I refuse to give up. I just need to get creative.

 

Just a dumb idea for you to try. Why not take it to a muffler shop? They are experts on exhaust pipes and i would give you 2 to 1 odds that they could free it in 5 minutes. I'll keep my fingers crossed X