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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I know Spottedfrog did this already and posted a thread not too long ago, but I figured I could put up so more info that could help someone out. Total cost was right around $225 (before oil and filter, but you're gonna do that anyways).

Quick review - it's fun. Banging down a few gears and dumping the clutch won't lock up the rear. I've gotten pretty aggressive with it and the worst that will happen is the rear will slide around slightly, but that only happens when going down from like 4th to 1st. Engine braking is reduced but not eliminated, as expected. Force required to pull clutch lever is reduced, which is nice.

Edit: partshark has a package together for this now at $215:

XSR900 Slipper Clutch for FZ-09 : Part Shark

Parts list is as follows:

3 x 1TD-16178-00-00 Absorber
1 x 1TD-16324-00-00 Clutch Plate
1 x 1TD-16383-00-00 Cushion Spring
1 x 1TD-16384-00-00 Seat Plate
3 x 2CR-16337-00-00 Spring Screw
3 x B90-16173-00-00 Compression Spring
3 x B90-16331-00-00 Friction Plate
1 x B90-16350-00-00 Pressure Plate Assembly
1 x B90-16352-00-00 Pressure Plate 2
1 x B90-16371-00-00 Clutch Boss
1 x 90179-20010-00 Boss Nut

That is parts: 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 16, 19.

Parts fiche: 2016 Yamaha XSR900 (XSR900GCS) Clutch | Part Shark

Partshark was the cheapest I could find, was fast and has good customer service. They may even give you a $5 off shipping if you call and ask nicely.

Standard tools required - allen wrenches, socket set, 12mm spanner, rubber mallet, torque wrench, 30mm socket, calipers (to measure clutch stack).

Odd Tools - Boss Clutch Holder: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0008-Clutch-Holding/dp/B000HS4NA8

Shop Manual - search around this thread, several links work: http://www.fz09.org/forum/69-xsr900-general-discussion/12586-haven-t-seen-shop-manual-xsr-yet-2.html


Don't need to drain the oil.

Clutch Cover came off with ease. First undo the clutch cable, pretty straight forward (need a 12mm spanner). Gasket came with the cover.
IMG_3200.jpg

Here is the stocker. Back out the 6 spring bolts. And pull out all of the friction and clutch plates.
IMG_3201.jpg

Here is the clutch tool engaged on the boss. 30mm socket on the boss nut. I put some towels under the clutch tool and used the foot peg to jam it. I had trouble getting this nut off. First you have to "unstake" to nut. It is crimped on 2 sides around the shaft. I used a tiny eye glasses screwdriver and a hammer to do this. This kills the screwdriver. You really have to bash the hell out of the ratchet with a mallet. Harder than you've ever hit anything to loosen a bolt. Really thought I was gonna break something in the transmission.
IMG_3202.jpg

But at last it gave way, and discovered why it was so damn hard - red locktite.
IMG_3203.jpg

And here is the bare clutch basket. After this install is pretty straight forward as far as getting all the clutch pieces back together. Don't forget the large flat washer and spring washer. One of the new friction plates goes in the very back (closest in to the bike), then alternate steel and friction plate that came out of the stocker. the last 3 items are new friction plate, new steel, new friction plate.
IMG_3204.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Make sure the last clutch steel is engaged with the pressure plate gear (new part), and the last friction plate is offset from the rest. Then in go the rubber "absorbers", springs and spring bolts. Torque spring bolts to 7.2 ftlb. Don't forget the pull rod. Also make sure to measure your stack to make sure it is in spec. Mine came out to 43mm, which is in the middle of the spec.
IMG_3205.jpg

The last step is getting the clutch cover back on, which I also found to be a huge pain in the ass. First, the teeth on the pull rod have to be pointing towards the bolt hole at the bottom right corner of the CP3 stamped cover. You then have to make sure the cable gear engages with the pull rod in the correct orientation, all while making sure the gasket stays in place. It is doable, but took a while to figure out.

I reused the old gasket, and haven't noticed any leaks, but will monitor and update if the situation changes. Filled her up with oil and a fresh filter and fired her up!

I also used the stock clutch cover, which is not tapped for the damper plate. At first I noticed when I pulled the clutch lever in, I would hear some buzzing in there, but since putting a few miles on it, the buzzing has been reduced, but if I put my head near the cover and pull the lever, I can still hear it. Not going to worry about it.

Hope this helps someone, happy to answer questions.
 

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Great write-up, thanks!

One tip for aligning the clutch pull rod: use a dab of grease on the clutch rod so it stays in position while you line up the cover. Learned that one several years ago and it works like a charm.
 

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Nice w up, You don't actually have to drain the oil first. The oil will all be in the sump. That said It would be a good idea, and I did.
Did you notice how much smoother normal shifting is? To me it was very noticeable after, now I don't think about it and it just feels like it should. It's amazing how fast you get used to the better feel, and forget how it was. Lighter lever is really nice at stop lights, and also noticed that the lever travel to engage/did engage is much less.
 
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Use a long breaker bar to make getting the 30mm boss nut off easier. Leverage.

here's a $13 one from harbor freight

1/2 in. Drive 25 in. Breaker Bar

or put a long steel pole over your wrench handle for leverage - though you could end up destroying you ratchet
For another $40 get the electric impact wrench from HF. I use it on clutch, flywheel, crank, etc nuts all the time - spins them right off. Use it once and you'll be hooked.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For another $40 get the electric impact wrench from HF. I use it on clutch, flywheel, crank, etc nuts all the time - spins them right off. Use it once and you'll be hooked.
Link? No way my electric impact could spin off that boss nut.
 

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I think he means a corded 1/2" impact.

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"
Sorry - missed your question on my response. Av's link is the one I was referring to. If I was a 'pro' I'd buy something better but for me that thing works great. Just used it rebuilding a KTM 200 engine. Got the clutch nut (88 ft/lb spec) and primary nut (133 ft/lb spec w red loctite) off no problem with it. On the bigger nuts you gotta let it hammer away for a few seconds but it works. I've had it for a year or so, if it dies tomorrow it doesn't owe me a nickel.
 

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Parts Shark was a great tip from Gsatterw. There was a back order situation on one of the parts needed for the upgrade, when I left a message asking for a delivery date, they answered back in a timely manner. I understand that sometimes an order does not go as planned, as long as they make an effort to work with me and acknowledge my concern. Parts Shark will continue to get my business.
 

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Took me about an hour. Most of that time was struggling with the clutch boss nut and reinstalling the cover. If I had to do it again I could do it in about 30 minutes probably.
Nice work, brother!
Appreciate the info.
Cheers!
 
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