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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning on getting the matris cartridges over the winter and getting everything needed for the job.....question is do i need just the oil seals when i do this job? Notice they have dust seals also....never attempted anything like this but i have the shop manual and it doesnt look to bad so like ive always said want it done right do it yourself....any other tidbits that may be needed please let me know.....
 

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fork oil, fork seals, proper tools for removing the fork caps and disassembling the cartridges, make sure you have the correct fork springs while you are at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah I got all the oil/tools covered was just curious if the dust seals need replacing also....ive only got 2k on the bike and debating doing the oil seals or not
 

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I installed Nick's GP cartridge and it did not require separating the forks so my vote would be to leave the seals and just be careful to keep everything clean.
 

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It does depend on the cartridge if you need to replace the seals. My Ohlin 30 mm cartridges required all new seals for the installation; at least this what my installer told me.
 

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I installed Nick's GP cartridge and it did not require separating the forks so my vote would be to leave the seals and just be careful to keep everything clean.
Hi Stuarth,

I had Penske install the GP cartridges for me and when I reinstalled the forks and took them for a spin, the forks topped out badly with a loud metallic sound when rebounding over some bigger bumps. When I put the front end of the bike on a triple tree stand, I can push the front wheel down and hear metal contacting in the fork. I'm assuming your forks don't make this noise? Can you tell me if your kit has any type of bump stops or is it hydraulic for rebound? Still waiting to hear back from Penske and don't want to ride until I get this sorted out. Thanks.
 

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If you are going to the trouble of replacing the seal, you might as well replace the dust seals. The bushings should be okay. A fork compression tool is a big help. Also, use a corner of a baggie to assist in sliding the seal over the tube end to prevent tears.
 

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It does depend on the cartridge if you need to replace the seals. My Ohlin 30 mm cartridges required all new seals for the installation; at least this what my installer told me.
my Ohlins were installed by a racing buddy (mechanic by trade) and the tubes never came apart no seals needed, all works great and no leaks, You can watch an
Ohlins cartridge install on revzilla (for R1 project bike-no seals installed) my installer said once he did one leg slowly and carefully it only took him 20 mins. to do the other.
 

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Mine does not make any metallic sound when it extends fully. There is no "top out" spring to cushion the front when fully extending like a traditional fork so I assume it's done hydraulically. But the bike should not be rebounding that quickly so it sounds like you have even less damping than stock. Have you adjusted the rebound screw at all to see if that helps? If you push down on the front end when parked, do the forks rebound quickly or do you feel some damping and hear oil moving inside? Sound like perhaps they forgot oil? You may want to shoot an email to Nick at Stoltecmoto.com. Very helpful and very knowledgeable- a great all-around guy. He may have some ideas. I do my own work because I know it's done right, and I'm cheap....
 

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That being said, I only had 4,000 miles when I put in new cartridges so I never pulled the tubes apart to change the seals.
 

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Thanks for your response. The front end feels fine and there's definitely adequate dampening when riding and rebound doesn't seem excessive. It's just at the top of the stoke where all support seems to disappear. When I asked the shop what kind of springs they used, they said they used the springs that were already in my fork (Sonic .85).

His response was:

" I spoke to my technician and he re-used your springs since the rate was correct for the cartridge. Springs are mainly a similar diameter but it is the length that varies, in order to get the length the kit is just modified. If you need to alter spring rate or if you sell the bike to someone else they would just need to use Sonic Springs in the future with your kit. It actually is not a bad option with keeping the stock spring length. Our future GP kits will use a similar length spring as we are changing the FZ-09 specs for future to keep them all the same on the same cartridge and just the spring change or re-valve. So you're the first one!!"

Could the wrong sized spacers create this situation? I imagine if enough forum members chime in, the issue will be pinpointed...
 
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