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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Basically, I'm starting this thread to find out what I don't know and should in terms of bringing the bike home. Remember, I'm a motorcycle noob... If you would please post your opinion and any suggestions about any/all of these topics, I think it would be quite helpful.

EDIT: I'm putting folks different answers under each one to keep it all in one post, and to help folks out in the future. Also, it'll prevent repeats.

So, here's a list of things I am aware of:

chewymilk98: Check these things (where appropriate) before you even leave the dealer.
Alley Oop: Check for scratches/dents and any other indicator of riding done on the bike when you first see the bike. Also, bring all your best riding gear: riding suit/jacket, helmet, boots, and gloves. Don't let yourself be rushed through the buying process, carefully read everything you're given.

1. Chain: I've read about checking the chain tightness. How does one do this? Is it a matter of feel or visual inspection? How does one adjust it?

rabbitman09: see the very next post below, triplethreats warning: DO NOT USE THE SPECIFICATIONS from those images, though, as they are designed for another bike.

2. Frame/Spool/Engine sliders I am going to do sliders. However, I've seen different terms here, I know spools are for a rear stand, and sliders are in case you lay it down. Is there a difference between engine and frame sliders?

Trey Yama: Pit Bull Motorcycle Stands & Accessories: Rear Stands - don't forget blue locktite
Making a Front-End Stand

3. Breaking in: I've seen there are a couple threads here, so not looking to rehash, just mention that I do plan to address it. Since I'm also new to riding, I'm leaning towards taking it straight to a dyno and breaking it in with the higher load, plus I'll get a good baseline for the future. Except I just called and I'm having trouble finding anyone with a bike dyno in the area :( so I may just have to take advantage of this nice hill a mile away...
(Motoman)

4. Oil: I've read this is a good idea anywhere from the first 20-100. Motoman recommends breaking in with petroleum oil, not synthetic. Is the OEM oil petroleum?

Trey Yama: check the oil level BEFORE leaving the dealer. His was overfilled.

Stuff for later:

5. Phone mount: I have a Samsung Galaxy S3, and will be using that for GPS. Anyone have a good mount to recommend? I'd rather avoid a cheapy, and certainly don't want to lose my phone. Could be resolved with a good tank bag, but that seems like it would be pretty far down to look at while riding.

Roger: RAM Mounts www.mountguys.com - handlebars are 7/8", recommends the X-GRIP

6. Bluetooth audio/comm system: Someone recommended a Sena SMH10 ($155 on Amazon). My Bell Vortex has room around the ears for speakers. Any other suggestions?

rabbitman09: Scala Rider G4 (hard to find, G9 is out for $260)

7. Cargo bag(s): Something good for occasionally transporting a laptop when I need to drive in to work (I work from home). Should I just stick with a backpack? Also, good tank bags

rabbitman09: Tanklock System: 3D601

8. Electrical Power: What are my optioTanklock System : 3D601 TANKLOCK TANKBAGns for powering my phone for longer rides? I haven't seen anything stating the bike comes with a 12v socket, haven't really thought about this before, so not sure if it's like a cigarette socket like in a car, or what.

bobby walnuts: yamaha genuine 12v power outlet
 

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1. The chain slack is measured by finding the tightest spot in the chain (on a rear stand), and measuring the "deflection" or the distance from the same point when pushing up on the chain toward the swingarm, and pulling down away from the swingarm. The manual will have details. Here is some shots from the FZ1 manual on how to do it. Very simple. Check every 600 miles when cleaning and re-lubing the chain.





2. From what I know, engine and frame sliders are the same, because they protect the same thing. They do make other sliders, like I have seen a crankcase slider, and stuff like that. Frame sliders will save you big time.

3. I don't ride insanely spirited, as in I don't normally on a regular basis shift above 9000 rpm. When I break in (done 3 times now), I just ride it without intentionally letting the bike wind out in a particular gear. I vary my speed, and change gears to take the RPM's all over the band. After 1000 mi, ride normally.

4. Yamalube I think is a synthetic blend. I use what the manual says to use. If you ever are looking at a warranty claim, I would prefer to have been doing what is recommended in the owners manual.

6. I have the Scala Rider G4's...very nice unit. I think they have a G9 out now, but the range is excellent, and clear.

7. I use a Givi tank lock system tank bag. I had a magnetic before, which was fine, but I preferred the look that only the tank lock can give. On/off is much easier. See the setup that I have here:

Tanklock System : 3D601 TANKLOCK TANKBAG
 

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I can't remember if you already did this, but if you haven't, be sure to take the MSF course before you ride. It's well worth it.
When I took the MSF class they furnished the motorcycles. I also received a discount on my insurance because I took this class.
 

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Another thing to check BEFORE the bike leaves the dealership is the oil level. Mine was overfilled and above the top oil level line....they had to remove some of the oil.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Trey: good idea on making your own stand... I made my own Xbox Steering wheel lap-table out of very similar parts :)

Rabbitman: thanks for the images and BT alternative (though that one seems a bit pricey)


I actually have my MSF course scheduled for tomorrow through Sunday :) They do provide the bikes for the BRC 1 course (and I plan on taking the fz09 to the BRC 2 course in Spring where you learn on your own bike). Eventually I'll take the advanced course.

I'm collecting all ideas and posting them in the OP, btw.
 

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Bringing it home

Trey: good idea on making your own stand... I made my own Xbox Steering wheel lap-table out of very similar parts :)

Rabbitman: thanks for the images and BT alternative (though that one seems a bit pricey)


I actually have my MSF course scheduled for tomorrow through Sunday :) They do provide the bikes for the BRC 1 course (and I plan on taking the fz09 to the BRC 2 course in Spring where you learn on your own bike). Eventually I'll take the advanced course.

I'm collecting all ideas and posting them in the OP, btw.
This is one of the smartest threads I've seen in a while. I will refer to it often, as guys with some know-how chime in. Thanks for starting. I guess I'm a re-noob? I rode bikes a lot from 1976-2000. Life changes, work, etc took me out of the game for about 13 years. A lot has changed. (mainly performance and bike quality)

As I get back in, I have a lot to learn, and "re-learn.":encouragement:
 

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Front stands, whole bike stands

There are 2 types of front stands sold, that lift from the bottom of the forks or from the bottom of the steering stem (bottom of the triple clamp). The photos in the link for the DIY stand don't show the bike actually being lifted, but it is from above the whole bike.

I like having lift points on my garage ceiling (eolith would probably call them hard points ;) ). Mine are an all-thread bolt going up to 2x6s that go across several ceiling joists to spread the load. Put a tie-down loop on the bike's frame each side of the engine, a tie down strap connects the loops, a hand wench from the center of the strap up to the ceiling lift point.

A set of tie-down loops and straps on both the front and rear of the bike and you can lift it all to remove the swing arm etc. There are a lot of variations possible to fit your needs, the bike etc. I also like a Woodcraft front stand that lifts from the steering stem, if I'm going to change the front tire I use that and a rear stand.



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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, Willowbilly, much appreciated! I like to preserve knowledge gained in public form. Blame the project manager side of me...

I had figured out the lifting nature of the stand. I really like the idea of "hard points" on the ceiling. This is a rather light bike, so shouldn't be too hard, and I know a few engineers...

...from my phone...
 

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Eolith.....Just make sure that you or anyone else DO NOT use those numbers for the chain adjustment slack which is in the above picture.....it's way too much according to the Yamaha Owner's Manual. The FZ 09 slack is.... 5mm to 15mm, which is .2 to .59 inches. They also say that if the chain slack is more than 25mm (.98 inches) it can cause damage to the frame, swingarm, and other parts

And actually, they suggest that the slack measurement be taken while the bike is on it's sidestand, not a rear stand.
 
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It matters where the swing arm is in it's range from full extension to full compression. The chain is at it's tightest when the centers of the sprockets and the swing arm pivot are in a line. You want to adjust the chain at a consistent swing arm position, and know that the amount of play there will keep the chain from being too tight when the centers are in a line.

There is less weight on the rear tire/swing arm on the side stand than when on a rear stand. Yamaha is using that as a standard position to have the amount of chain play they specify.



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Well most of the stuff you mentioned should be checked BEFORE you leave the dealer.
My train of thought has always been; if someone isn't there making sure my adjustable suspension or contact point on the bike aren't adjusted for me.
Then that's not a really good dealer.
And you can get some really good cheap spool and headstock (triple clamp) stands on eBay or at cycle great or harbor freight.
No need to rig a set together from bits and pieces.
Just don't forget to buy the spools.
 

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One more "new bike" question

There is always a lot of suggestions on "mods" to be made. At what point does this stuff end up voiding your warranty? I figured it safer to just stay stock for a year anyway. Does anybody have any experience with trying to get warranty work done on a bike they changed up a bit? Just curious....in advance. :confused:
 

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Your answer to question number 5 is RAM MOUNTS the only thing you need to know is i believe that the bars are 7/8" i use the X-GRIP for my iPhone and it has NEVER even thought about moving they have all kinds of mounts for gps,laptops,ez pass. www.mountguys.com
 
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