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Hi guys just got my 09 liquid yesterday in so cal and the dealer told me to break it in with A mode, I put 40 miles on it yesterday in A mode
read a few posts about people using B mode for break in not sure whats best? Anybody else using A mode for break I in?
 

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I am using "B" mode to break mine in because I like the softer throttle response and smooth power delivery.
Keeping it under 6000 rpm and letting it lug a bit by shifting up early. I'll put the first 1000 miles on it this way. And use nothing but 91 octane.
 

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Dont let the bike lug, its the worst thing you can do. Think of riding a bike and shifting to a higher gear while riding uphill, Its really tough on you. Same with the motor. You are better to shift into high rpm then lower rpm
 

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I am using "B" mode to break mine in because I like the softer throttle response and smooth power delivery.
Keeping it under 6000 rpm and letting it lug a bit by shifting up early. I'll put the first 1000 miles on it this way. And use nothing but 91 octane.
To each his/her own. In the factory when the R6, R1's, and I assume all the other sport bikes come off the production line they are dyno'd and run through each gear to max throttle, redlined. I've never understood the point of babying the bike, and to be honest, I have done it on one bike and that engine never really was 'right' or responded like my friends identical bike. He rode it like he stole it, power was better, burned less if not no oil while mine was sluggish and burned oil. If I ever buy a new bike again I will trailer it to a dyne or a track and run it through the MotoTuneUSA procedure. I don't think it takes 1000's of mile to break in an engine either, I suspect the rings are seated within 100 miles.
 

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WFO mode for me. I plan on putting it in A mode and pin it in between the twisties allowing for engine braking to back torque it in lower gears. Slow easy breakins are the worst thing you can do for a modern engine.
 
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WFO mode for me. I plan on putting it in A mode and pin it in between the twisties allowing for engine braking to back torque it in lower gears. Slow easy breakins are the worst thing you can do for a modern engine.
That's how I've always done it; break it in fast, it'll be fast!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update for the break in. I called my dealer talked to service dept and they said to deff take it easy on rpm. I believe 5600 rpm. After 5600 the 09 has an oil bypass that will bypass the oil filter, and all of the metal in oil due to break in will be recirculated back in motor. So for me im still gonna take it easy at 200 miles. Only 400 to go and oil change then its on.
 

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I really don't think the mode selection has a thing to do with it. It will be a function of your right wrist and what you do with that. Personally, I'm going to use the Motoman method and change oil and filter at approx. 20 miles, 100 miles, and again at 600 miles.
 
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Update for the break in. I called my dealer talked to service dept and they said to deff take it easy on rpm. I believe 5600 rpm. After 5600 the 09 has an oil bypass that will bypass the oil filter, and all of the metal in oil due to break in will be recirculated back in motor. So for me im still gonna take it easy at 200 miles. Only 400 to go and oil change then its on.
WTF? That is unbelievable. I really mean that I do not believe that. Bypassing the oil filter at 5600 RPM with an engine that will be revved way beyond that most of the time? Bypassing the filter at all? I could see a high-pressure relief valve but a bypass...? Anyone else actually have real info on this?
 
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Here's your answer...that is bad information there from the service department. The oil filter bypass valve will not normally open if the filter is flowing normally. It may open if the oil is very thick on engine startup. It opens based on a pressure differential, not an engine rpm...pulled this off the web.

If you wait too long to change the oil and oil filter, there is a danger that the oil filter might become plugged. To prevent a plugged oil filter from starving the engine for lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a "bypass valve." When the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But when the bypass valve is open, no filtration occurs.

The bypass valve also opens when a cold engine is first started. Cold oil can be fairly thick and may not pass through the filter element very easily. So the bypass valve opens and allows the oil to go around the filter until the oil warms up and flows more easily. During this time, any contaminants that are in the crankcase may be sucked up through the oil pump and bypass the filter, causing increased engine wear and possibly engine damage. Once the oil gets warm and the bypass valve closes, oil flows through the filter and normal filtration resumes.
 

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Nice informational post W8andC.........:thumbsup:
 

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Here's your answer...that is bad information there from the service department. The oil filter bypass valve will not normally open if the filter is flowing normally. It may open if the oil is very thick on engine startup. It opens based on a pressure differential, not an engine rpm...pulled this off the web.

If you wait too long to change the oil and oil filter, there is a danger that the oil filter might become plugged. To prevent a plugged oil filter from starving the engine for lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a "bypass valve." When the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But when the bypass valve is open, no filtration occurs.

The bypass valve also opens when a cold engine is first started. Cold oil can be fairly thick and may not pass through the filter element very easily. So the bypass valve opens and allows the oil to go around the filter until the oil warms up and flows more easily. During this time, any contaminants that are in the crankcase may be sucked up through the oil pump and bypass the filter, causing increased engine wear and possibly engine damage. Once the oil gets warm and the bypass valve closes, oil flows through the filter and normal filtration resumes.

It is a common misconception that all the oil flows through the filter.This will only happen in a full flow filter.Most (virtually all) filters on bikes and other vehicles are bypass filters.The bypass valve in the filter will open at a certain oil pressure and act like a relief valve. The engine oil pressure will be higher than the bypass pressure so a proportion of the oil will be forced by the bypass pressure through the filter medium and the remaining proportion of the oil will go through the bypass port in the filter.

So if the bypass valve opens at 10 psi and the engine oil pressure is 30 psi 33% of the oil will go through the filter medium and 66% will go through the bypass.

At idle or low revs the oil pressure might be below the bypass valve pressure, in which case 100% of the oil will flow through the filter medium.

There is also usually a filter bypass in the oil system.This is to allow oil to continue to be pumped around the system if the filter gets blocked.
 

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The owners manual says not to switch between modes while moving, to only switch when you are at a complete stop. What could the side effects be if you switch while your moving?
 

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You can definitely switch it on the fly, you just have to close the throttle completely......no harmful side effects unless you run off the road because you weren't paying attention to where you are going
 
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