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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know what the drive chain type is? Factory issued from Yamaha. Thanks.

Is 520 correct?

Don't know where to look up this info.



I have 15k on the bike and a few links that are bound up a bit and will not come back to life with any cleaner or WD-40 or anything else. I live right at the beach so salt water and sand are a daily grind at this location. I've let it go for too many miles without maintenance a few times. :mad: So it's time for a new one.

Also suggestions for a good vendor. Thinking of getting something with a gold / zinc plating that has more rust resistance. :cool:

What ya'll running for chains that works good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Muchas Gracias T.T. I really appreciate the quick answer. This forum is awesome.

On my way to quiet riding again.
 
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Yea, I didn't necessarily post the Honda East link as the place to buy it, I just have that bookmarked in my computer as a good parts fiche reference.
 

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I just got mine at Moto mummy. Price was ok and you have a nice selection of chain/sprockets.

I went with the 520 conversion kit (15/45) with a 1000cc rated chain.

 

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According to the service manual, under Chassis Specifications, on page 2-9. The chain is a 525V10/DAIDO, 110 links.

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And the stock sprockets are 16 tooth front and 45 tooth rear.

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I know my DR650SE comes with the same size 525 chain.

Is there a huge advantage to going with a 520 chain? I know the whole rotating mass argument, but if you are just running around on the street, is it worth it?

According to what I can find on the D.I.D. website. They suggest using a 525VX PRO-Street X-Ring (Max. 900cc), or a 520ZVM-X Super Street Series X-Ring (Max. 1200cc).
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the replies and good info.
 

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I think the 520 will give you a bit less frictional loss, but will you notice it.......I doubt it! Probably one of the only advantages you will see is a bigger choice of available sprockets......and a tiny bit of weight savings.
 

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My tough behing the 520 conversion was that the sprockets out life the chain with the oem. So I went with 520 but a 1000cc rated chain. The plates on the links are 0.010" thicker, I would imagine the chain will last longer (as long as the sprockets) than the oem? Time will tell... sprockets are lighter than oem but chain is a bit heavier since its a bit stronger. If you go with a lesser strength chain you will definitely save weight... but like triple said, most than likely won't notice it. But it's cool! :)
 

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^ If you take care of the ounces the pounds will take care of themselves.
 

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My tough behing the 520 conversion was that the sprockets out life the chain with the oem. So I went with 520 but a 1000cc rated chain. The plates on the links are 0.010" thicker, I would imagine the chain will last longer (as long as the sprockets) than the oem? Time will tell... sprockets are lighter than oem but chain is a bit heavier since its a bit stronger. If you go with a lesser strength chain you will definitely save weight... but like triple said, most than likely won't notice it. But it's cool! :)
I think you may have used some faulty logic here. The thicker plates make the chain stronger and less likely to break with high H.P., but the rollers are 20% narrower, meaning 20% more pressure on the bearing surfaces when transmitting the same power. If the durability of the material used is the same (it might not be), the 520 chain should wear out sooner.
 

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I think you may have used some faulty logic here. The thicker plates make the chain stronger and less likely to break with high H.P., but the rollers are 20% narrower, meaning 20% more pressure on the bearing surfaces when transmitting the same power. If the durability of the material used is the same (it might not be), the 520 chain should wear out sooner.
Ya, I see your point. I believe the oem chain is very good and should last a long time. I just think I killed 1/4 of its lifespans when I first bought the bike. Going from 5mm to 25mm slack in about 300ish miles can't be that good?

Started this one at 25mm now.
 

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Got it. Understand that the front sprocket rev more often and the tighter chain radius put more wear on the chain... I'll keep you posted.

Like i said, I started at 25mm and won't touch it. The OEM sort of stretch quite a lot after the first few 100s miles and end up around 25mm slack. That's why I left it at 25mm. It was about at 30 to 35mm depending where I measured at the end.
 
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