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I knew I had a good picture of this, I just found it! When I was doing a specific airbag connector repair I would throw the old connector in a drawer in my stall. (Just for kicks really.) These are mostly just from one connector failure. (The yellow ones, not the bulb/connectors. That was another HUGE connector problem.) After cutting every one of those connectors out, I twisted the wires inline (important), soldered and then covered with shrink tubing. Not one of those came back.

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Discussion Starter #22
Agree on everything but the soldering - I'd use connectors (crimped or soldered - users choice) just because eventually that relay is going to wear out and I'd rather plug-n-play a new relay than have to cut & solder the wires again.
Cycleterminal has the 'micro' relays and you can also order the connectors and base that match.

I know how to solder...the larger the target and less cluttered the more likely I am to not fail...I've done ok work and pretty bad work...I'll probably solder if it looks doable. I'm going to take a look at those relays on cycle terminal in a bit...sucks I just ordered connectors from them...

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haha.

Here's a couple soldering tips that might help, or be painfully obvious.

Heat transfers MUCH better when there's solder between the gun and terminal/wire. I see a lot of guys just hold the gun on the material, lay the solder on the material, and wait for the solder to melt. I put the solder at the tip of the gun so it can melt and transfer the heat to the material faster. This little tidbit makes a big difference.

Another one is the amount of time the gun is on the material. I like to use a really hot gun, don't mess around with moving it once it's on the material, watch for the solder to flow to BOTH sides, wait a half second or so and then take the heat away. It should be a fairly quick operation, but make sure it's long enough to not get a cold solder joint. The longer the gun is on the material, the wider the heat is going to travel through it. On something like a relay, that's not good. It also helps to use really thin solder when you're doing things like soldering onto relay terminals.

Hope that helps.
 

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(The yellow ones, not the bulb/connectors. That was another HUGE connector problem.)

View attachment 161487
Are those DRL bulbs??? Reason I ask is, I’ve never seen a GM truck or SUV drive by that didn’t have at least one burned-out DRL, and when we had a Yukon, I replaced several of them. And we only had it for maybe two years... 😝
 

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Are those DRL bulbs??? Reason I ask is, I’ve never seen a GM truck or SUV drive by that didn’t have at least one burned-out DRL, and when we had a Yukon, I replaced several of them. And we only had it for maybe two years... 😝
Hahaha yeah damn near every one you see has at least one DRL bulb out! Those are mostly burnt out because they used a turn signal bulb for DRL's and they don't last long when they're on all the time. Stupid idea. Those connectors did melt also though.

The connectors with bulbs in that drawer are mostly from Acadia/Enclave's. The halogen bulbs pulled more amperage and created more heat than the terminals in the connectors could take. Bosch knew this decades ago when they made halogen bulbs with little pigtails spot welded onto the bulbs. Not only did the pigtails move the connector away from the bulb heat, the terminals they used were much bigger than what GM used with their halogen bulb headlights. The stupidest part of that whole Acadia/Enclave headlight failure situation is you had to pull the front bumper and both wheel well liners to replace the connectors and bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok.

Ordered the micro relay from cycle terminal...i might need some extra wire to run the lights cleanly. What gauge wire should I use you think?

This came out ok, a little too much on the right side but I probably won't notice the blots once it's back on...I did 4 light coats. For the tail section which is even more rusted...I watched a tst integrated tail install video that showed how to undo the pieces back there and I was just able to probably pry them out...but I don't know how these work the silver ones...just pop em off with a flat head? I think I'd lose em...



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