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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, this forum has been awesome and very helpful. I am considering get my ecu flashed by vcyclenut. I am new to this type of mod so I am not sure what I would want to request in the flash. I do find "A" mode way too torquey for low speed riding. I actually find myself riding in B mode around town. I came from a CBR 600rr and this is a different animal to me surprise. I took the baffle off my Akra today and it ran like garbage. I swore I wasnt going to "mod" this bike since it is basically brand new. If anyone can give me some recommendations as to what I should request for the flash or if I should just get used to the oem riding modes. Thanks in advance!!
 

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Haven't done the flash yet, but the good feedback is overwhelming. Get your mods finished and tell him what you have. $80 + shipping is waaaay cheaper than a PCV.
 
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Just to give you an idea, this is want I'll ask him to do: I want the front right lever to be my clutch, my front left lever to be my throttle, my throttle to be my front brake and my rear brake pedal to be my horn. This will make my FZ the perfect bike.
 

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Get. The. Flash.

Mine ran crappy with the baffle out as well. Got the flash = unleashed the beast.
 

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Just to give you an idea, this is want I'll ask him to do: I want the front right lever to be my clutch, my front left lever to be my throttle, my throttle to be my front brake and my rear brake pedal to be my horn. This will make my FZ the perfect bike.
One of us is drunk and I'm thinking it's both of us
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just to give you an idea, this is want I'll ask him to do: I want the front right lever to be my clutch, my front left lever to be my throttle, my throttle to be my front brake and my rear brake pedal to be my horn. This will make my FZ the perfect bike This vcyclenut nut guy really is a miracle worker huh
 

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Just to give you an idea, this is want I'll ask him to do: I want the front right lever to be my clutch, my front left lever to be my throttle, my throttle to be my front brake and my rear brake pedal to be my horn. This will make my FZ the perfect bike This vcyclenut nut guy really is a miracle worker huh
I know David, is crazy what a flash can do, is amazing!
 

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I got the Yamaha reflash and it was such an improvement (in "B" and "STD" modes - "A" mode seems to stumble coming off idle) that I decided to go with the $80 Vcyclenut reflash. I've paid for it, but haven't yet sent the ECU in. Have a friend that got it and loves it. I'll let you know what transpires with my deal. If you're anxious to get going on it, I suggest you go to Vcyclenut's website and read what you can, cough up the $80 on a credit card and tell him your mods and what you are looking for as far as performance and your riding style. The way he's got it set up, at least as far as I could figure out, is that you don't really get to communicate with him until you pay. That makes sense, because yaking on the phone can easily use up $80 worth of his time.
I also previously got the Throttletamer profile 400 ($80) and it was (is) great. I really like it on tight, winding (especially bumpy) roads, in parking lots, slow traffic and when lane splitting. So when I get the new reflash, I'll get the quickturn throttle in "A" mode. With the Throttletamer it won't be so darn quick.
I, too, frequently ride in "B" mode and the fact that you do too suggests to me that you'd really like the Throttletamer a lot. I sure do.
You may have noticed you'd better be careful even in "STD" mode if you grab a handful of throttle. With the sit up riding position (unlike your CBR), the front end can easily pop right up without warning. Wakes you up in a big fat hurry. Reminds me of the first time I rode a 1968 Kawi 500 Mach III. Wish I had a video of it. I had to buy my own after that.
After all the money you've got into your suspension and pipe, I don't think you can go wrong with the reflash and the throttle tamer and they're downright cheap by comparison with the suspension and pipe mods.
I think a new ECU is about $600, so you might want to insure it both directions for about that amount in case it gets lost in the mail.
Looking at Vcyclenut's webpage might lead you to believe that he can correct speedo readout for gearing changes with the reflash, but he can't. It costs an extra $100 to undo the top speed limiter. It also cost extra to set it up for a power shifter. I'm not doing either of those. If I planned to go that fast, I think I'd spring for a steering damper. Or just buy a badder bike to begin with. This bike is bad enough for me. I don't need no 300 HP fire-breathing dragon, even if it would be cool to ride one. Once. Like shooting a S&W Model 500. I'd like to shoot one once, but I don't want to own one.
I would have liked the default on start-up to be “B” mode, then “STD” mode, then “A” mode, but no can do so I'll keep that as is.

I know you didn't ask about gearing changes, but I’ve got a 42-tooth rear sprocket, 3 teeth less than the stock 45 teeth and it's completely stopped me from trying to shift up from sixth gear - I like it much better than stock, especially on on long rides. You can get an idea if it would make first gear too tall for you by starting from a stop in second gear (which is much taller than first gear with the sprocket change) and see if you think you can get used to the idea. I practiced doing that before I made the gearing change so I'd be used to it. I hardly noticed it initially and don't anymore. It does mess up the speedo reading though. So, for example, what reads 65 is actually 69.6 MPH. When I see a cop on the freeway, I just slow to an indicated 5 MPH lower than the speed limit and figure I'm close enough. Hasn't been a problem for me.

I think with the reflash you can get the fan to come on at a lower temperature than stock. I think i'm also going to get an injector decel cut, and I think disable ais valve. Not sure though.

There are other guys on this site that have had it done and I'm anxious to read their replies to your thread. I'm sure you'll get at least a few good ones.

Swearing doesn't seem to work well for you. But when you get all your mods dialed, I think you'll be pretty happy with the result. I get the impression that you bought this bike used with the suspension mods already done. If you're not well-versed in suspension tuning, you might want to consider paying an expert to help you set it up just right for you.

BTW, if you haven't had the headlite recall done yet, you might want to research the hack job Honda's recall is and consider the much cleaner suggestions given on this site. Wish I had. I also like the Mazda low profile oil drain plug and will do it.

OH!

Disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel pump at the bottom of the tank to get to the ECU is a bit tricky. At least for me. You can read about it on this forum. There's also a photo of a guy who simply set the tank on a table just to the right of the bike and didn't disconnect the fuel line or the wires at all. Also, get your tank down a ways towards empty before you mess with it. AND DON"T DROP IT!!!

Sorry for rambling. I hope it all turns out great.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got the Honda reflash and it was such an improvement (in "B" and "STD" modes - "A" mode seems to stumble coming off idle) that I decided to go with the $80 Vcyclenut reflash. I've paid for it, but haven't yet sent the ECU in. Have a friend that got it and loves it. I'll let you know what transpires with my deal. If you're anxious to get going on it, I suggest you go to Vcyclenut's website and read what you can, cough up the $80 on a credit card and tell him your mods and what you are looking for as far as performance and your riding style. The way he's got it set up, at least as far as I could figure out, is that you don't really get to communicate with him until you pay. That makes sense, because yaking on the phone can easily use up $80 worth of his time.
I also previously got the Throttletamer profile 400 ($80) and it was (is) great. I really like it on tight, winding (especially bumpy) roads, in parking lots, slow traffic and when lane splitting. So when I get the new reflash, I'll get the quickturn throttle in "A" mode. With the Throttletamer it won't be so darn quick.
I, too, frequently ride in "B" mode and the fact that you do too suggests to me that you'd really like the Throttletamer a lot. I sure do.
You may have noticed you'd better be careful even in "STD" mode if you grab a handful of throttle. With the sit up riding position (unlike your CBR), the front end can easily pop right up without warning. Wakes you up in a big fat hurry. Reminds me of the first time I rode a 1968 Kawi 500 Mach III. Wish I had a video of it. I had to buy my own after that.
After all the money you've got into your suspension and pipe, I don't think you can go wrong with the reflash and the throttle tamer and they're downright cheap by comparison with the suspension and pipe mods.
I think a new ECU is about $600, so you might want to insure it both directions for about that amount in case it gets lost in the mail.
Looking at Vcyclenut's webpage might lead you to believe that he can correct speedo readout for gearing changes with the reflash, but he can't. It costs an extra $100 to undo the top speed limiter. It also cost extra to set it up for a power shifter. I'm not doing either of those. If I planned to go that fast, I think I'd spring for a steering damper. Or just buy a badder bike to begin with. This bike is bad enough for me. I don't need no 300 HP fire-breathing dragon, even if it would be cool to ride one. Once. Like shooting a S&W Model 500. I'd like to shoot one once, but I don't want to own one.
I would have liked the default on start-up to be “B” mode, then “STD” mode, then “A” mode, but no can do so I'll keep that as is.

I know you didn't ask about gearing changes, but I’ve got a 42-tooth rear sprocket, 3 teeth less than the stock 45 teeth and it's completely stopped me from trying to shift up from sixth gear - I like it much better than stock, especially on on long rides. You can get an idea if it would make first gear too tall for you by starting from a stop in second gear (which is much taller than first gear with the sprocket change) and see if you think you can get used to the idea. I practiced doing that before I made the gearing change so I'd be used to it. I hardly noticed it initially and don't anymore. It does mess up the speedo reading though. So, for example, what reads 65 is actually 69.6 MPH. When I see a cop on the freeway, I just slow to an indicated 5 MPH lower than the speed limit and figure I'm close enough. Hasn't been a problem for me.

I think with the reflash you can get the fan to come on at a lower temperature than stock. I think i'm also going to get an injector decel cut, and I think disable ais valve. Not sure though.

There are other guys on this site that have had it done and I'm anxious to read their replies to your thread. I'm sure you'll get at least a few good ones.

Swearing doesn't seem to work well for you. But when you get all your mods dialed, I think you'll be pretty happy with the result. I get the impression that you bought this bike used with the suspension mods already done. If you're not well-versed in suspension tuning, you might want to consider paying an expert to help you set it up just right for you.

BTW, if you haven't had the headlite recall done yet, you might want to research the hack job Honda's recall is and consider the much cleaner suggestions given on this site. Wish I had. I also like the Mazda low profile oil drain plug and will do it.

OH!

Disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel pump at the bottom of the tank to get to the ECU is a bit tricky. At least for me. You can read about it on this forum. There's also a photo of a guy who simply set the tank on a table just to the right of the bike and didn't disconnect the fuel line or the wires at all. Also, get your tank down a ways towards empty before you mess with it. AND DON"T DROP IT!!!

Sorry for rambling. I hope it all turns out great.

Fred
Hey man thanks for all the awesome info! I really appreciate the time you took to respond and go into detail. You are right I purchased the bike with all the mods already done. I want to wait for some rainy days to send the ECU in. My recall was taken care of by previous owner but I'll take a look regardless. I'm pretty sure I'll do the flash and will definetely post a review once everything is set up. Again thanks for all info.

David
 

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Just to give you an idea, this is want I'll ask him to do: I want the front right lever to be my clutch, my front left lever to be my throttle, my throttle to be my front brake and my rear brake pedal to be my horn. This will make my FZ the perfect bike.
High expectations!
 

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David
I just noticed that DECON BLUE removed his G2 Thrjottle tamer and put stock back on. If you're interested and quick, you might be able to snag it from him for a good price.
 

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fred,

not sure why you would think you have to buy a flash before ill talk to you. I literally live on my phone and answer messages at all hours of the day( ask my wife she just loves it). If someone calls me and doesn't text me first or leave a message I guess I might be hard to get a hold of, but considering all the different ways to get a hold of me, like the contact me form on my web site, that shouldn't be an issue.

the fz09 is one of the few flashes that does not have speedo correction, I list all the items that are available 0n each bike on the front page and do not mention it on the fz09 flash page so I am not sure why that was misleading??

straight from my page

Each bike is a bit different in the adjustability . The breakdown of what is
adjustable for each bike in the flashing process is listed
below.

The fz-09
has adjustability for ignition timing, fly by wire settings for each mode, fuel mapping, start up mode, fan temps, disabling ais valve, injector decel cut, speed limiter removal, and ecu based quick shifting


I can put any throttle in any mode so while it may not be labeled b mode I could put the" b mode" throttle in std mode, The bike can only be set to start in std or a


you do not need to remove the tank to take out the ecu. Remove all plastic covers, remove the two bolts from the front side and the two bolts at the very back that go down into the rear subframe. remove the two rubber trim pieces on the front of the tank. Lift the tank up, bring it back a little bit so it clears the bars and you can lift it higher. Prop the back so it sits against the brace on the rear subframe and it will hold it solidly in place. you can then with the other hand unplug the two connectors and remove the ecu. Ill try to have my daughter take pics tomorrow and post them on the website.


I also put painters tape on the frame by the front bolts to protect it from scratching.

any specific questions I can answer for you let me know, this is not the quickest way to get a hold of me as I actually have to log on to a computer and then does not always happen
 

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Sorry David. The shop I bought my FZ at used to be just a Honda Dealer and I still call it by its old name "Camden Honda". Oops. So I keep thinking of my FZ as a Honda. When you get old, you'll understand.

Vcyclenut straightened me out. I guess just cuz I couldn't figure it out doesn't mean I know what I'm talking about. I'm not real hep when it comes to websites. (Yes - in my day the word actually was hep) I used a slide rule in college. Sorry if I mislead you.
Bill

Bill
 

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Vcyclenut
I apologize. I didn't mean to misrepresent you or your product or your website. I didn't see your phone number on the website. I know it's no good excuse, but websites easily lose me and I see now that I made false assumptions when I replied to David.

Thanks for the tips on removing the ECU without removing the tank and the tape suggestion. And also thanks for the clarification about setting up the modes.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ECU is packed and ready to ship via express mail first thing tomorrow!
 
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