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Discussion Starter #1
The turn signals stopped working!

Today morning I saw the right turn signal was on. So I switched it off and then I never saw any of the turn signals work again.

The running lights up front work. But none of the signals work. Where all should I look? WHich is the fuse for the signals? And how do I check if the flasher has conked off! And if it is the latter, can that be covered by warranty? The bike is barely 1450 miles old!

Any suggestions?
 

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Check your fuses. You can verify the relay is working if you hear it clicking. It's probably something simple.
 

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You probably just need a new flasher to check turn your hazard lights on to see if they blink if not its either the fuse or the flasher.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I hear some clicking when I turn the signals on- but sometimes I dont. The light on the dash doesn't flash either.
The hazards are also not working- the running lights and brake lights work.

As for the fuse- where is the fuse for the signals? Is it one of the 7.5 ones inside the fuse box?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The horn works! I checked the fuse- it looked fine but still replaced it and still the turn signals dont work.
Wondering if the flasher has conked off,
 

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Sounds like you are down to the switch itself (handlebar) or the wiring. - Although if the hazards don't work (different switch) - sounds like wiring. A lot of connections are made in the back of the speedo, anything there??

But don't take my advice, I'm bad at diagnosing electrical problems. At this point I would take it in for them to put their electrical sleuth on it - if you trust the dealer of course... I'm getting this unsaid vibe that you don't???
 

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I suspect the switch. Have you washed it with a high pressure hose? If so - you may have gotten water into the switch or the connectors. Spray into the switchgear with electrical cleaner (protect your tank), wait a while and try it again. Take the switch apart and jump the wires to make the turn signals go. If nothing then trace the wires back and make sure the connectors are seated properly where it connects to the main wiring harness. Other than that - the nect most likely is a pinched/cut/faulty wire in the wiring harness. You really want a dealer to take it up from there.

If you changed handlebars or rerouted wires then the connector could have been disturbed, or a wire could have been pinched. If you lifted the tank then it could have disconnected or pinched them...

What mods/adjustments have you done to your bike that might have disturbed the wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like you are down to the switch itself (handlebar) or the wiring. - Although if the hazards don't work (different switch) - sounds like wiring. A lot of connections are made in the back of the speedo, anything there??

But don't take my advice, I'm bad at diagnosing electrical problems. At this point I would take it in for them to put their electrical sleuth on it - if you trust the dealer of course... I'm getting this unsaid vibe that you don't???
Yeah, I wanted to go to them as last resort- they charge something like 90 per hour so....I like the owner of the dealership- the other, not so sure.

I suspect the switch. Have you washed it with a high pressure hose? If so - you may have gotten water into the switch or the connectors. Spray into the switchgear with electrical cleaner (protect your tank), wait a while and try it again. Take the switch apart and jump the wires to make the turn signals go. If nothing then trace the wires back and make sure the connectors are seated properly where it connects to the main wiring harness. Other than that - the nect most likely is a pinched/cut/faulty wire in the wiring harness. You really want a dealer to take it up from there.

If you changed handlebars or rerouted wires then the connector could have been disturbed, or a wire could have been pinched. If you lifted the tank then it could have disconnected or pinched them...

What mods/adjustments have you done to your bike that might have disturbed the wires?
I am glad I did not have to go through all these steps!! It was pretty silly- a fuse was blown- but for the parking light (10A) in the RHS air scoop!! Why it killed the turn signals and hazards, I don't know! I just got a hunch today and it turned out right! Phew! Lesson learned- check all fuses irrespective of what went out!

Thank you everyone who chimed in with advice- made my trouble shooting worth it- and I have a extra flasher now! lol

I think what happened is that every time i tried to test the wires and see what powered which light, the fuse blew. When I tried to do it today again, it blew the fuse of my Powerlet multi point terminal! Is this normal behavior?
 

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Thanks for letting us know what it was. I figure that for every posted solution, at least 10 people will get to save some time and anguish by finding the answer...
 

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I had the same thing happen, Motorock.

I was installing my headlight, as well as new LED front signals, but since the wiring on the adapters was all wonky I had to move the bullet plugs around to find the correct placement. I'm not sure if moving them around is what did it for me, though. I have a toggle switch for some functions on my headlight, and the connections were exposed. It was hanging over my handlebars and must've gotten jostled because I heard a tiny crackle, and after that nothing but my headlight would come on. No taillight, rear signals, or pods. I had a slight freakout because I had no idea what the hell just happened. Looks like one of the open connections hit a bolt on the handlebar clamps and shorted out. Checked the fuse box in the RH air scoop, low and behold, the 7.5 fuse and the 10 fuse were blown. Switched them out with the spares and everything was fine.

I'm guessing the parking light fuse is for the signals, since they can be activated while in "parking" mode. I forget what the place for the 7.5 fuse was, but since my taillight has integrated signals wired into the same connector as my rear signals, I'm guessing it shorted the whole circuit and that is why I lost all lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Electrical connections are a funny lot- and they have the potential to stop FI engines from running! I guess thats when I really like carbed-engines that I have push-started in the face of battery failure!
So easy to create a short- will have to be even more careful than ever- funny that testing the points could create the shorts!
 

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I think what happened is that every time i tried to test the wires and see what powered which light, the fuse blew. When I tried to do it today again, it blew the fuse of my Powerlet multi point terminal! Is this normal behavior?
that's normal behavior only if you were testing for power by grounding the circuit to see if it blew a fuse...

how exactly were you testing?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
that's normal behavior only if you were testing for power by grounding the circuit to see if it blew a fuse...

how exactly were you testing?
I took DNF's (I think) advice and used one of those Auto circuit testers- which have a cable that plugs into them on one end and grounded with a alligator clip on some metal on the other end. I grounded it every time..why would it blow a fuse?
 

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it's possible the tester's bad. if there's a short in the tester, trying to test a hot circuit will blow the fuse. have you used it successfully before?

if you're going to be doing electrical work, a pocket multimeter's useful to have.
 

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I took DNF's (I think) advice and used one of those Auto circuit testers- which have a cable that plugs into them on one end and grounded with a alligator clip on some metal on the other end. I grounded it every time..why would it blow a fuse?
Didn't you install LED turn signals, and also a blinker genie?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
it's possible the tester's bad. if there's a short in the tester, trying to test a hot circuit will blow the fuse. have you used it successfully before?

if you're going to be doing electrical work, a pocket multimeter's useful to have.
I guess the tester is faulty then...I have no way of seeing if there is a short there because it has been able to test at other times successfully? I guess I should get the multimeter considering I am planning more electrical fiddling- which one would you recommend. I have never used one either- are they complicated to learn?

Didn't you install LED turn signals, and also a blinker genie?

For some reason this has been the most complicated install that hasn't happened yet!
The LED light bar (integrated with the license plate) had wires too short apart from having lost the power to the turn signals that day. I could not find wires in hardware stores so had to order online.
As for the blinker genie- I was also looking into the Smart triple play from Signal Dynamics that would do the same thing without many complications- however I ran into a legal glitch, which I am sure, is the reason Yamaha did not make the rear turn signals running lights, like in the front. Many states require running lights in the rear to be red colored- which means I would have to get red lenses/lights which would, in turn, be my new turn signals. However, as a road user, I find red turn signals not as quickly noticeable as the amber lights so it is a safety issue for me. I have look into this in a little more detail but for now, that project is on hold. I will instead some more running lights on the rear rack itself.
 

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Had the same thing happen to me! Once I found the fuse box underneath the right air scoop it was simple. I recommend the rumble flasher relay. It can be used with LED and regular flashers at the same time. I haven't changed my fronts to LEDs yet, but they all blink the same. It's plug and play.
 
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