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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up my bike a week ago and I've been looking through all the forums and how to threads I can find. I think I finally found what I wanted to do with my lights. And wanted to see if anyone else thought it would work.

For the rear I got the minimal Fender Eliminator with plate light only. On eBay I found an integrated tail light and brake light to make up for the lights I'm removing.

On the front I'm taking off the whole stalk on each side, using the adapter plates and putting on the flush mount signal lights. I want to wire those to the headlight markers for dual turns and markers. I bought one relay and one set of the running light 3 wire to 2 wire harnesses.

Sound like that may work?
 

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I did something similar with my last bike. I used a LED flasher relay and wired the lights to stay on all the time, unless flashing. Good luck with your project.
 

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Just picked up my bike a week ago and I've been looking through all the forums and how to threads I can find. I think I finally found what I wanted to do with my lights. And wanted to see if anyone else thought it would work.

For the rear I got the minimal Fender Eliminator with plate light only. On eBay I found an integrated tail light and brake light to make up for the lights I'm removing.

On the front I'm taking off the whole stalk on each side, using the adapter plates and putting on the flush mount signal lights. I want to wire those to the headlight markers for dual turns and markers. I bought one relay and one set of the running light 3 wire to 2 wire harnesses.

Sound like that may work?
In order to make the lights in the headlight blink all you have to do it cut the ground wire, and wire it into the power for the turn signals. They will also blink opposite of the turn signals this way, so they are more noticeable. A guy on here figured this out and made a video. I will see if I can find it.

[edit]I edited this post to make it correct, I was wrong.[/edit]
 

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replaced the stock turn signals with Speed Metal arrow tips, uses the same 12v 21w bulb, same flash rate with no relay needed...did use OEM connectors to make it plug 'n play. you can use pigtails that are sold in pairs, I opted not to and splice in 4" of wire onto the right turn signal to reach the connector using environmental splices(butt connector with heat shrink that has sealant at both ends). I bought the BikeMaster mini LED tail light, but it leaves a gap around it...looks just like the Rizoma tail light, which is in the mail to replace it with giving the tail section a nice clean look. OEM connectors are from 12oclockLabs.com, both kits available for front and rear turn signals and tail light. $15 for both kits, they have the pigtails also.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. Great advice. The only lighting I had to do on my GSXR was the marker lights. The dim factory bulbs in there I replaced with LED.

I'll post some pictures as things come in.
 

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That wiring trick doesn't work very well with LEDs, they light up very dim. You will have much better results with the blinker genie or stick with regular bulbs if you do that trick.
 

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That wiring trick doesn't work very well with LEDs, they light up very dim. You will have much better results with the blinker genie or stick with regular bulbs if you do that trick.
That doesn't make any sense? All you are doing is removing the ground connection momentarily to shut the light off suring the blink. Are you sure it wasn't the type of LED you were using? There are a lot of crap led bulbs out there, especially in that mini wedge style.
 

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That doesn't make any sense? All you are doing is removing the ground connection momentarily to shut the light off suring the blink. Are you sure it wasn't the type of LED you were using? There are a lot of crap led bulbs out there, especially in that mini wedge style.
I'm not sure, but I know what I saw. I know how it works, but with it wired that way it was about half as bright with the setup I had. It could be the bulbs, but they are damn bright LEDs. I don't think the problem is with the bulb in the running light, but the quality of the ground through the positive wire of the LED signal light. With an incandescent signal it works fine, when the signal is LED (with the three different ones I tried of varying qualities) it made it about half as bright. To be clear, in all cases the running light is LED, the problem is when the turn signal is also LED. Grounding the running light through an LED turn signal just isn't a strong enough ground (in my experience with my equipment). Just wanted to make sure people knew it wasn't as easy as it sounds.

Give it a shot, all it costs is time.

As for not spending $24 on a transistor, I really don't care what you do. Time is worth money to me, and there is a cost to fiddling with DIY crap sometimes. I tried it for about 3 hours before I gave up. If you want a cheap alternative, try this wire job if that doesn't work go to autozone and buy a normally closed automotive relay. I did that on my last bike for about $8 but they are pretty bulky. Good luck finding someone there who knows what that is.
 

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I just realized that I was mistaken. My bad. You cut the ground on the running light and wire it into the signal positive wire. Now what sparker is saying makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm not sure, but I know what I saw. I know how it works, but with it wired that way it was about half as bright with the setup I had. It could be the bulbs, but they are damn bright LEDs. I don't think the problem is with the bulb in the running light, but the quality of the ground through the positive wire of the LED signal light. With an incandescent signal it works fine, when the signal is LED (with the three different ones I tried of varying qualities) it made it about half as bright. To be clear, in all cases the running light is LED, the problem is when the turn signal is also LED. Grounding the running light through an LED turn signal just isn't a strong enough ground (in my experience with my equipment). Just wanted to make sure people knew it wasn't as easy as it sounds.

Give it a shot, all it costs is time.

As for not spending $24 on a transistor, I really don't care what you do. Time is worth money to me, and there is a cost to fiddling with DIY crap sometimes. I tried it for about 3 hours before I gave up. If you want a cheap alternative, try this wire job if that doesn't work go to autozone and buy a normally closed automotive relay. I did that on my last bike for about $8 but they are pretty bulky. Good luck finding someone there who knows what that is.
Wow. Catty for no reason? Thanks for your help.
 

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I'd prefer not to spend 24 dollars on a wire a transistor and some heatshrink
There is also the LED Flasher relay to fix the LED turn signal flash rate issue. Here is the best price I have found for an LED Flasher.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/lf1-s-flat-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/842/

They also have a great price on a basic brake light strobe module.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/brake-light-strobe-module/195/845/
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sweet. I got one of those relays off eBay. I'm hoping it takes care of any issues. Still waiting for parts to arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update:

Installed the fender eliminator and integrated tail light/turn signal. Love the look. Tailight was pricy at $90 but the eliminator was only $25. Back of the bike is done now I just have to work on the front.







 
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