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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Everything was going well until I got to the part where I had to somehow try to access and break the lower shock bolt. It was the only thing still holding the shock in. I tried doing it the way other members did it, nothing. Ended up putting the bike back together and I'm THIS close to just having a stealership do it for me. I kind of want to try just buying a new bolt and nut and cutting the thing off with a cutting wheel or something, but even then I'm not sure how I would get the new one in given how little clearance there is between the swingarm and the shock bolt. Any ideas?
 

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Ya... it can be a b$#@!

I use one of those torque adapter that I bough back in my glory days of racing... worked very well.



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I was able to get that bolt out, but getting.g it back in was impossible until I removed the link bolt so I could move the rear shock mount free of the swingarm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I put the shock in and out few time without any issue (ZX-10... 8mm longer) I had to lift the bike up a bit with a floor jack under the oil pan but it wasn't a problem.
And you didn't have to mess with the linkage bolt at all?
 

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I supported the back of mine with tie downs around the subframe up to my garage door track hangers, took 10 minutes to pull the stock shock and put the Penske in. Using the tie downs will allow you to adjust the tension so the bolt holes line up easier taking it apart and during assembly, when adjusted properly the bolts will slip right out and go right back in.

Also the front was supported on Pitbull "pin" front stand, not the fork lift type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I supported the back of mine with tie downs around the subframe up to my garage door track hangers, took 10 minutes to pull the stock shock and put the Penske in. Using the tie downs will allow you to adjust the tension so the bolt holes line up easier taking it apart and during assembly, when adjusted properly the bolts will slip right out and go right back in.

Also the front was supported on Pitbull "pin" front stand, not the fork lift type.
But how specifically did you get the bottom shock bolt in and out with that tiny amount of swingarm clearance?
 

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But how specifically did you get the bottom shock bolt in and out with that tiny amount of swingarm clearance?
I have found that it is a matter of having the swing-arm in the proper position. It is much easier to remove the top shock bolt first; this way, you can block the rear tire with the swing-arm in a position that allows the bolt to be pulled into the recess of the casting.
 

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Flip the foot pegs and set jack stands to raise the rear wheel just off the ground. Remove that bolt that goes through the frame and the swing arm shock will pivot up to access that bolt. Top shock bolt I access after removing fuel tank. Just like mentioned above do this first! I used a board under tire to leverage the wheel and line up bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Flip the foot pegs and set jack stands to raise the rear wheel just off the ground. Remove that bolt that goes through the frame and the swing arm shock will pivot up to access that bolt. Top shock bolt I access after removing fuel tank. Just like mentioned above do this first! I used a board under tire to leverage the wheel and line up bolts.
Is that bolt in the access hole under the shock in the right side of the swing arm?

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I was able to access that bolt by moving the swingarm up (or maybe down)....It has been a while, but that is all I did. No link removal was necessary on mine.
 
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By flipping my pegs upside down, and placing jack stands under my pegs, I was able to place a 1X4 under the back wheel and raise the wheel with my foot underneath the board to get the bolt out and in without any hassles. If I recall, I pulled the top bolt first. Box wrenches allowed me to get the nut loose from the bolt.

In order to remove the left peg, I had to drill the pressed tip and replace the pins with a set from Nick @ Stoltec. You can use a passenger peg pin as a temporary measure, but you will still be one pin short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
By flipping my pegs upside down, and placing jack stands under my pegs, I was able to place a 1X4 under the back wheel and raise the wheel with my foot underneath the board to get the bolt out and in without any hassles. If I recall, I pulled the top bolt first. Box wrenches allowed me to get the nut loose from the bolt.

In order to remove the left peg, I had to drill the pressed tip and replace the pins with a set from Nick @ Stoltec. You can use a passenger peg pin as a temporary measure, but you will still be one pin short.
That was exactly how I did it and I already have the replacement pins. I got everything done, shock unbolted from the top, and got that far. The swingarm, even with the shock loose from the top, didn't reveal enough of the bolt to be able to use a socket + breaker bar. I tried box wrenches and it's on way too tight for that. And I don't have anything that allowed me to increase the torque.
 

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... And I don't have anything that allowed me to increase the torque.
Wheaties!

I will say it was a bear to break the nut free the first time. I had the nut side wrench in front of the passenger leg support cross-bar (Closest to the shock). This allows for a little bit of swing...brute strength did the rest!
 

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I have found that it is a matter of having the swing-arm in the proper position. It is much easier to remove the top shock bolt first; this way, you can block the rear tire with the swing-arm in a position that allows the bolt to be pulled into the recess of the casting.
Skooter is exactly correct, the bolt will fit in and out just fine if you have the swing-arm angled correctly. But yes, the bolt is very tight, better eat your Wheaties!...damn Skoot you beat me to it haha.

Yes, there's not enough room for sockets, you just need to pull/push harder with the wrenches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You guys are starting to make me more strongly consider my idea of just taking a cutting tool to the thing and replacing the bolt/nut =P
 

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You guys are starting to make me more strongly consider my idea of just taking a cutting tool to the thing and replacing the bolt/nut =P
If you have to revert to cutting you had better just take it to the dealer. Not to knock your skills but,,,,,,, there is no need to cut anything.
 
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