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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My apologies if this is in the wrong section but can someone post their Diagnostic mode values for the TPS so I can check them against my own which look a bit off. They are Diag options 1 and 13,. Can you give me your value ranges from closed to fully open throttle for both. Many thanks.
 

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service manual says:

1 - tps signal 1. fully closed: 11-21, fully open: 96-106
13 - tps signal 2. fully closed: 9-23, fully open: 94-108

note that the throttle position sensor is the one on the throttle butterflies, not the sensor that the throttle grip is connected to. yamaha calls that one the accelerator position sensor, diag codes 14 and 15.

14 - aps signal 1. fully closed 12-22, fully open: 97-107
15 - aps signal 2. fully closed 10-24, fully open: 95-109
 

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My apologies if this is in the wrong section but can someone post their Diagnostic mode values for the TPS so I can check them against my own which look a bit off. They are Diag options 1 and 13,. Can you give me your value ranges from closed to fully open throttle for both. Many thanks.
I don't think the US bikes get the diagnostic options.

I adjusted my TPS using the mode switch: loosen the TPS, adjust the TPS, check that the mode switch will switch modes with the throttle closed and keep adjusting the TPS in the same direction until the mode switch no longer switches modes, then adjust the TPS a little in the opposite direction until the mode switch begins to switch modes again when pressed.

This minimizes the amount of degrees of rotation in the TPS between actual closed throttle and detected closed throttle.

Also minimize the throttle cable slack.

The combination of reducing the mechanical slop in the throttle cable and the TPS drastically improves the throttle on-off transition. A reflash will smooth it out the rest of the way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think the manual is a bit ambiguous on this as I can only get those figures for fully open by turning the butterflies by hand. Using the throttle grip I only get 61 or so, so to rephrase the question, what do you get with the throttle grip in mode 1 and 13.
Thanks for all your replies.
 

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i don't remember the exact values offhand, but i do remember the last time i checked, the numbers were within the allowed range. 61 sounds wrong, is it possible your 09 has been restricted somehow?

what values are you getting for modes 14 and 15 at wide open throttle?

i'll post exact values later this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i don't remember the exact values offhand, but i do remember the last time i checked, the numbers were within the allowed range. 61 sounds wrong, is it possible your 09 has been restricted somehow?

what values are you getting for modes 14 and 15 at wide open throttle?

i'll post exact values later this evening.
No its not restricted. In modes 14 and 15 the readings were normal, fully open (on the throttle grip) over 100. I wondered if 60 ish was as far as they would open at standstill, but would have thought that in test mode (diagnostics) you should be able to reach full butterfly opening.
The reason for my query is that i have a fluttery sort of missfire at the 3-4000 range and am checking everything i can.
FYI i have Flash Tuned the ECU but this issue was already there before. The flash has smoothed out the throttle greatly but makes this issue more obvious, i also have the Akroprovic exhaust fitted. I am in the UK.
If you can try this on your bike i would be very gratefull.
 

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No its not restricted. In modes 14 and 15 the readings were normal, fully open (on the throttle grip) over 100. I wondered if 60 ish was as far as they would open at standstill, but would have thought that in test mode (diagnostics) you should be able to reach full butterfly opening.
The reason for my query is that i have a fluttery sort of missfire at the 3-4000 range and am checking everything i can.
FYI i have Flash Tuned the ECU but this issue was already there before. The flash has smoothed out the throttle greatly but makes this issue more obvious, i also have the Akroprovic exhaust fitted. I am in the UK.
If you can try this on your bike i would be very gratefull.
That miss is due to the stock O2 sensor trying to take over at cruise (ECO mode) keep the A/F ratio at a designated value. I have the exact same miss/flutter, and I dont think it can be rectified unless a PCV is added and the stock O2 sensor deemed obsolete somehow. I have the ECU flash also and my issue was there from day one. I was told it was just the way the 3 cylinder bikes run.....but I know better. That narrow band O2 sensor is the culprit there methinks.
 

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the tps values i have are (closed to open):

1: 16-101
13: 14-100
14: 17-101
15: 16-100

so no, i'd say 61 at wide open throttle isn't normal. could be an issue with the sensor, ycc-t servo, or even the reflash (it may have inadvertently messed something up).

how does the bike run, does it feel like it's down on power at full throttle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the tps values i have are (closed to open):

1: 16-101
13: 14-100
14: 17-101
15: 16-100

so no, i'd say 61 at wide open throttle isn't normal. could be an issue with the sensor, ycc-t servo, or even the reflash (it may have inadvertently messed something up).

how does the bike run, does it feel like it's down on power at full throttle?
Thanks Bobby for checking this for me, it seems like i do have an issue here. I'm not really sure if i am down on power but to be honest i have spent my last few rides concentrating on this missfire issue so thats a possibility.I will investigate further. Thanks again.
As far as this being an O2 sensor / low load transition problem all i can say is it doesn't feel like this to me. I have a PCV with O2 optimiser fitted along with an autotune, and the issue is there with or without these addons active. It would be nice to be able to completely deactivate the O2 sensor and try this, but unless Flash Tune adds this facility to their software i am stuck with it.
Thanks for the reply.
 

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if you know somebody else with an 09 - try swapping your ecu for a stock one (scratch that if the mt-09's come with an immobiliser), or swap throttle bodies to narrow down the source of the problem. you only need to make the electrical connections on the tb's, as it's just to see if you can get full throttle in diagnostics mode.

or you can take it to a dealer if they're cool with you having a reflashed ecu. if there's a problem with the ycc-t servo or throttle sensor it should be covered under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
if you know somebody else with an 09 - try swapping your ecu for a stock one (scratch that if the mt-09's come with an immobiliser), or swap throttle bodies to narrow down the source of the problem. you only need to make the electrical connections on the tb's, as it's just to see if you can get full throttle in diagnostics mode.

or you can take it to a dealer if they're cool with you having a reflashed ecu. if there's a problem with the ycc-t servo or throttle sensor it should be covered under warranty.
Thanks for your imput again Bobby. I have found the issue, it was the TPS connection to the PCV, once disconnected i had full throttle in diag mode 1 and 13, so now i have to determine if if this is some strange querk that only appears in Diagnostic mode or if it effects the actual running of the bike and is causing my other issue. I will road test it tomorrow and let you know how i get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
also try shooting dynojet an email, it might be a problem with your power commander.
Thats what i thought. I didn't get a chance to test the bike today but will try it tomorrow to see if theres any obvious difference then i will have more detail to put in the email.
 

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Has anyone "actually" had a better riding experience by adjusting the TPS and/or APS, after a "quality ECU flash"?

I'm beginning to get pissed off with this bike and Yamaha....don't think I've ever loved and hated a bike so much.

First off, accessing and adjusting the TPS is a "Royal B*tch"...one would think f'n Yamaha would use identical hardware for the screws that mount the sensors. The hardware (on my bike), holding the APS and the TPS are different. The screws on my TPS are "starred center w/post allen heads" (what a nightmare) vs. the normal open wrench style that bolts on the APS.

There is no individual adjusting of TPS 1 and 13, adjust one it affects the other's figure (owing to rotating the sensor), this also includes the APS adjustment. TPS 1 seems to be the most temperamental, accidentally set it a 23 and the bike wouldn't idle (TPS 13 was at 21, within range)
Same thing with the APS sensor. APS 14 seems to be the primary value to set, then 15.

Expect your sensors 1 with 13, as well as 14 with 15 to pretty much be a difference of 2.

Bottom line, I've already had my ECU reflashed by 2WDW....have Akra full Ti, O2 disconnected per Nels advice, and this bike still has this herky jerky crap (on/off throttle) below 4k RPM's.

Any advice greatly appreciated...

Btw...from the Dealer my Diagnosis Reads are:
TPS 1 = 16
TPS 13 = 14
APS 14 = 17
APS 15 = 15


Cheers
 

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First off, accessing and adjusting the TPS is a "Royal B*tch"...one would think f'n Yamaha would use identical hardware for the screws that mount the sensors. The hardware (on my bike), holding the APS and the TPS are different. The screws on my TPS are "starred center w/post allen heads" (what a nightmare) vs. the normal open wrench style that bolts on the APS.
they used security torx screws on the tps because once it's set correctly (as it is from the factory), there's really no need to touch it again unless you've taken the throttle bodies apart for some reason. if you do fiddle with the tps, the throttle servo should be disconnected.


Bottom line, I've already had my ECU reflashed by 2WDW....have Akra full Ti, O2 disconnected per Nels advice, and this bike still has this herky jerky crap (on/off throttle) below 4k RPM's.
did you ride the bike with the o2 sensor connected at all with the flashed ecu? if so, try clearing the memory - disconnect the battery/pull the main fuse for a couple of minutes.

also, check that the aps values change smoothly - put the bike into diagnostics mode, click over to 14, and very slowly open the throttle. you should be able to hit every single value all the way up. do the same for 15. if any values jump suddenly, the aps is suspect.

you can do the same for the tps, just be aware that it's normal for the tps values to initially jump out of that 'fully closed' range, but after that you should be able to hit every single value.
 

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they used security torx screws on the tps because once it's set correctly (as it is from the factory), there's really no need to touch it again unless you've taken the throttle bodies apart for some reason. if you do fiddle with the tps, the throttle servo should be disconnected.

Yes, I did mess with it and raised the values up, TPS/1 ended up being 23 vs. the 21 max, so have to bump it back down. TPS/13 ended up being value 21 while TPS 1 was at 23 (too high). Will tighten TPS 1 back down to 16 or 17, maybe 18.

did you ride the bike with the o2 sensor connected at all with the flashed ecu? if so, try clearing the memory - disconnect the battery/pull the main fuse for a couple of minutes.

NO....Nels told me not to.

also, check that the aps values change smoothly - put the bike into diagnostics mode, click over to 14, and very slowly open the throttle. you should be able to hit every single value all the way up. do the same for 15. if any values jump suddenly, the aps is suspect.

I have APS 14/15 set at 22 and 19 for values.....

you can do the same for the tps, just be aware that it's normal for the tps values to initially jump out of that 'fully closed' range, but after that you should be able to hit every single value.
Gracias Senor Nutz!!!

I've tested all values Closed and Open....Everything Dash-wise is now not showing any errors. Whewwww....
However, Bike won't idle or stay running with TPS 1 value of 23, have to hold throttle slightly open to 1500 / 2k rpms to keep it from stalling. Again...I will back this value back down to the original stock setting.

So, now the interesting question..."does the TPS really need to be adjusted?"
And is it the APS that's really causing the "herky jerky" throttle feel in the "lower rpm ranges"???
Or, is the a combination of the TPS and APS needing to be adjusted?
 

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So, now the interesting question..."does the TPS really need to be adjusted?"
i don't think it does, but since you're messing around with it already, try adjusting it so that the fully closed value is within the valid range (11-21 for 1), but closer towards one end or the other rather than in the middle. just to see if it makes a difference.

And is it the APS that's really causing the "herky jerky" throttle feel in the "lower rpm ranges"???
Or, is the a combination of the TPS and APS needing to be adjusted?
on a stock bike it's mostly the combination of closed loop lean fuelling and the aggressive throttle maps that causes the abrupt throttle response. but you have an aftermarket flash so you may want to speak to nels. maybe you got the wrong fuel map and/or throttle maps.

a tps/aps going wonky can cause all sorts of rideability issues, that's why i suggested doing the sensor range test.
 
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