Manual. As I understand it (and I could be wrong) the air in the tire will heat up, increasing pressure, as you ride. If you do it to max pressure then when it gets hot it'll exceed that max pressure
tire pressure accuracy reading
Which PSI pressure reading is proper?
The reading on the tire itself OR
Whats listed in the manual.
(manual states 36psi on front, but tire reads max 42psi)
Therefore which one is the correct reading
The reading on the tire itself OR
Whats listed in the manual.
(manual states 36psi on front, but tire reads max 42psi)
Therefore which one is the correct reading
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All tires, cars, trucks, motorcycles, trailer.....you name it, are engineered and made to be, if needed, to be inflated to the psi number on the side of the tire. The inflation number on the side of a tire is to tell you that if the tire is inflated to that psi number, the tire will provide the tire's rated load capacity. An example: a typical 120/70R/17 front tire will provide 520 lbs of load capacity when inflated to 42 psi. And remember, those are ALWAYS ....Cold inflation numbers, not after the tire has been run, or has been in direct sunlight and the tire has heated up.Manual. As I understand it (and I could be wrong) the air in the tire will heat up, increasing pressure, as you ride. If you do it to max pressure then when it gets hot it'll exceed that max pressure
Every motorcycle manufacturer will give you a recommendation for tire pressure, that covers their butts. When I still had my FZ09, I ran 30/30 in the tires. At those pressures, the tire would heat up properly and provide very good stick in the corners. I'm NOT telling you to run yours at those pressures, I'm just telling you what worked for me.Which PSI pressure reading is proper?
The reading on the tire itself OR
Whats listed in the manual.
(manual states 36psi on front, but tire reads max 42psi)
Therefore which one is the correct reading
I run 34/34 on mine. It’s what seems to work best with the current tiresEvery motorcycle manufacturer will give you a recommendation for tire pressure, that covers their butts. When I still had my FZ09, I ran 30/30 in the tires. At those pressures, the tire would heat up properly and provide very good stick in the corners. I'm NOT telling you to run yours at those pressures, I'm just telling you what worked for me.
I always run what the manual tells me to.
32/36 on my previous bike, 36/42 on my Gen 3 09.
32/36 on my previous bike, 36/42 on my Gen 3 09.
The big question is WHY? Every bike (and car/truck/etc) has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating....GVWR and the bike should never weigh more than that. That includes the bike, rider, passenger, any/all cargo and full fuel tank. When the tires are inflated to the numbers that the manufacturer recommends, the tire load capacity will be at least several hundred lbs MORE than the bike should ever weigh.....the GVWR. So running at those pressures will make for a harsher ride and more importantly, the tires will never heat up properly and provide the grip you need for cornering....unless you just putz around. What is your reasoning for the higher pressures?I always run what the manual tells me to.
32/36 on my previous bike, 36/42 on my Gen 3 09.
^^^^ this
I tend to run my tires around 30-32 psi for this simple reason. I look at tread wear after making a spirited run through any of the local gaps to let me know if we're in range.
I want the rubber to get to its optimum temp and tire pressure is how you adjust for that.
I tend to run my tires around 30-32 psi for this simple reason. I look at tread wear after making a spirited run through any of the local gaps to let me know if we're in range.
I want the rubber to get to its optimum temp and tire pressure is how you adjust for that.
Yamaha say 36/42, which is the same as Suzuki said for my 50kg heavier Bandit on the same tyre sizes. Strange?
Michelin recommend 32/36 for PS4's on an 09. So who's right?
i think that, as in many things, the manufacturers want a one size fits all spec so that they don't confuzzle people.
By comparison, my wife's last car had pressure specs for driver only, driver only comfort setting, and full load of 3 passengers and luggage.
Michelin recommend 32/36 for PS4's on an 09. So who's right?
i think that, as in many things, the manufacturers want a one size fits all spec so that they don't confuzzle people.
By comparison, my wife's last car had pressure specs for driver only, driver only comfort setting, and full load of 3 passengers and luggage.
When I started out on the street I used 36/42. Then I went faster and my tires overheated. So, I lowered my pressures and my tires stopped overheating and I picked up more traction and feel.
With the DunlopQ3+, I have settled on 30/30 and I am pleased with the tire performance at these pressures.
With the DunlopQ3+, I have settled on 30/30 and I am pleased with the tire performance at these pressures.
That is totally opposite of the laws of physics. A fully inflated tire simply will NOT flex as much as a tire with lower pressure. And the reason a tire heats up is because of the amount of flex of the tire when moving. The number one cause of tire blow outs is underinflation. Underinflation causes more tire flex, more tire flex heats up the tire, hotter tires will cause pressure increase, and if it gets high enough, .....Boom!When I started out on the street I used 36/42. Then I went faster and my tires overheated. So, I lowered my pressures and my tires stopped overheating and I picked up more traction and feel.
With the DunlopQ3+, I have settled on 30/30 and I am pleased with the tire performance at these pressures.
You are 100% correct as I cannot break the laws of physics. I switched tire brands before dropping my pressures, so that's a huge influence. Mikey no likey Michelin Pilot Roads.That is totally opposite of the laws of physics. A fully inflated tire simply will NOT flex as much as a tire with lower pressure. And the reason a tire heats up is because of the amount of flex of the tire when moving. The number one cause of tire blow outs is underinflation. Underinflation causes more tire flex, more tire flex heats up the tire, hotter tires will cause pressure increase, and if it gets high enough, .....Boom!
Why? Because these are the values the manufacturer recommends and he knows better than anyone else.The big question is WHY? Every bike (and car/truck/etc) has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating....GVWR and the bike should never weigh more than that. That includes the bike, rider, passenger, any/all cargo and full fuel tank. When the tires are inflated to the numbers that the manufacturer recommends, the tire load capacity will be at least several hundred lbs MORE than the bike should ever weigh.....the GVWR. So running at those pressures will make for a harsher ride and more importantly, the tires will never heat up properly and provide the grip you need for cornering....unless you just putz around. What is your reasoning for the higher pressures?
The tire manufacturer has recommended values only for track use, at least for my tires.
Tires heat up just fine and handle equally fine at knee-down cornering situations.
You are fooling yourself if you think the manufacturer "knows better than anyone else". Their recommendations are based on a legal standpoint of Cover Your A$$. If you think they are correct, how can almost every bike made, that that has the same size tires (lets say the 120/70R/17 front and the 180/55R/17 rear) have the same exact psi recommendation and there are bikes in that group that weigh 375 lbs up to maybe 700 lbs. You're welcome to keep believing that nonsense if you want, but it simply is not accurate or true.Why? Because these are the values the manufacturer recommends and he knows better than anyone else.
The tire manufacturer has recommended values only for track use, at least for my tires.
Tires heat up just fine and handle equally fine at knee-down cornering situations.
Well you know what they say about opinions.You are fooling yourself if you think the manufacturer "knows better than anyone else". Their recommendations are based on a legal standpoint of Cover Your A$$. If you think they are correct, how can almost every bike made, that that has the same size tires (lets say the 120/70R/17 front and the 180/55R/17 rear) have the same exact psi recommendation and there are bikes in that group that weigh 375 lbs up to maybe 700 lbs. You're welcome to keep believing that nonsense if you want, but it simply is not accurate or true.
The values that Yamaha suggests work for me (and for a lot other riders as a matter of fact) ,but you can try whatever makes you feel better.
Same goes for those who change engine oil at half of the indicated intervals etc.
Wouldn't that assume maximum weight capacity - like carrying a passenger and a 12 pack?I always run what the manual tells me to. ...36/42 on my Gen 3 09.
That might be because its the only setting you have used? Same with suspension settings, you never know unless you try something different. Yamaha even use a punch mark where they want you to position the handlebar.The values that Yamaha suggests work for me (and for a lot other riders as a matter of fact)
I agree with @triplethreat Yamaha uses that value as a general legal recommendation to cover their ass since they cant possibly know how the bike will be used. Commuter? long distance touring? track use? Is the user 170lbs or 300lbs?
If 36F/42R works for you, keep using what you are comfortable with but nothing catastrophic will happen if you experiment with slightly lower pressures, the worst that can happen is you set it back the way it was.
Exactly right ^^^^^^ I think he must have missed the part about every vehicle having a safety sticker on it with the GVWR for that vehicle, and that the tires provide a considerable amount MORE load capacity than the GVWR if they are inflated to the tire sidewall psi numbers. Then the question become, is a bike so heavy that it is at the GVWR on the sticker? The answer is usually a very solid...NO it's not.Wouldn't that assume maximum weight capacity - like carrying a passenger and a 12 pack?
And, don't use gas station pressure gauges. Buy a good brand, check your tyres weekly, and when cold.
So very true. When I was still doing track days, I ran Michelin Power Cup Evos on the bike. The rear tire was extremely touchy about having the correct tire pressure when the tire was pushed hard. Leaving the pit with a cold pressure of anything more than 18 psi was pretty much a guarantee that when you came back in, you would have a lot of hot tearing on the side of the tire. I bought a Longacre brand tire gauge that was guaranteed to be within 1/2 of 1% of accuracy. At 30 psi, 1% is .3 psi. Half of that is .15 psi. I had it professionally tested to see if it was within those parameters by a tech and a machine that could measure down to .001 psiAnd, don't use gas station pressure gauges. Buy a good brand, check your tyres weekly, and when cold.
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