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Discussion Starter #21
Well, if you're willing to pay shipping costs, he may agree to do it. You just need to agree in advance.
Yeah I also thought about this. But luckily someone sold me his Kev O2 Controller for 10€ so I will try this first.

Buy the stuff to do the flash and pay vcyclenut for the tune. Then you can both do others in and around Germany.
Not a bad idea. But I have no experience in flashing ECUs. Do you know where to get the flashing hardware?

Have you started the bike and watched the initial opening? The butterflys aren't at idle so you may be fooling your self into thinking the problem is bigger than you think it is. If it still jumps like that when idling, then read a little farther into it. Have you had the Yamaha reflash done at least? Smoothed mine out tremendously.
You are right. Yesterday I tried it with a running bike and the butterflies are opening much smoother. I don't know if I got the reflash because I bought the bike about one year ago. I'm planning to go to a Yamaha dealer to check this.
 

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I've just looked at the vid again and realised what you were on about. Fly by wire throttles are not linear. The whole point is that they're controlled by the ECU, not directly by the throttle. What they do with the engine off is unrelated to their behaviour through the whole range of parameters when the bike is running.
What yours are doing is probably normal.
 

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I believe the most accurate and optimum way is to tune your individual motorcycle is by ECU Flash while on a dyno . I have had a woolich racing ecu flash on my 2015 MT09 ( Carbon Akra and DNA filter and block off plates ) which adjusted
  • IAP fuel maps,
  • TPS fuel maps,
  • Ignition maps,
  • Secondary throttle plate (STP) opening maps,
  • Fuel trim maps,
  • RPM limiters,
  • Disable top speed limiter,
  • Disable stock O2 sensor,
  • Disable exhaust valve
  • lowered cooling FAN temp cut in
  • Default A mode
Yes it cost me 700 Australian Dollars but it is money well spent as I know my bike now runs so smooth and at its optimum performance . MT09 Dyno resulted in 121 HP with also a increase in torque
 

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Yeah I also thought about this. But luckily someone sold me his Kev O2 Controller for 10€ so I will try this first.


Not a bad idea. But I have no experience in flashing ECUs. Do you know where to get the flashing hardware?


You are right. Yesterday I tried it with a running bike and the butterflies are opening much smoother. I don't know if I got the reflash because I bought the bike about one year ago. I'm planning to go to a Yamaha dealer to check this.
Glad to have calmed things down for you. Have them install the map, assuming you have a 2014 model. You will notice a big difference. The Yamaha bulletin has expired and most likely will be a cost to you to do so. Come to Iowa and I will do it for $35.
 

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Not a bad idea. But I have no experience in flashing ECUs. Do you know where to get the flashing hardware?
Its not that hard and I think I seen on VCycleNut website options to by the cabling and what not.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I believe the most accurate and optimum way is to tune your individual motorcycle is by ECU Flash while on a dyno . I have had a woolich racing ecu flash on my 2015 MT09 ( Carbon Akra and DNA filter and block off plates ) which adjusted
  • IAP fuel maps,
  • TPS fuel maps,
  • Ignition maps,
  • Secondary throttle plate (STP) opening maps,
  • Fuel trim maps,
  • RPM limiters,
  • Disable top speed limiter,
  • Disable stock O2 sensor,
  • Disable exhaust valve
  • lowered cooling FAN temp cut in
  • Default A mode
Yes it cost me 700 Australian Dollars but it is money well spent as I know my bike now runs so smooth and at its optimum performance . MT09 Dyno resulted in 121 HP with also a increase in torque
Thst would be the optimum yeah. But that's really expensive because the Mt09 is my low budget bike.

Glad to have calmed things down for you. Have them install the map, assuming you have a 2014 model. You will notice a big difference. The Yamaha bulletin has expired and most likely will be a cost to you to do so. Come to Iowa and I will do it for $35.
Can they also check if I have the mapping installed? I'm from Germany so coming to you isn't the best idea 😅. If I would be from USA I would let vcyclenut flash the ECU.
 

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Thst would be the optimum yeah. But that's really expensive because the Mt09 is my low budget bike.


Can they also check if I have the mapping installed? I'm from Germany so coming to you isn't the best idea 😅. If I would be from USA I would let vcyclenut flash the ECU.
Here in the states, we as a Yamaha dealer can only put in maps that are Yamaha/EPA approved. The dealer can only put a map in if it is available in the YDT tool. If there isn't on available then it has the most current Yamaha map in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Here in the states, we as a Yamaha dealer can only put in maps that are Yamaha/EPA approved. The dealer can only put a map in if it is available in the YDT tool. If there isn't on available then it has the most current Yamaha map in it.
Alright then I will go to the dealer when the weather gets better and ask. Do you also know if it is still possible to get a cam chain tensioner on goodwill because mine is rattling sometimes.
 

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Alright then I will go to the dealer when the weather gets better and ask. Do you also know if it is still possible to get a cam chain tensioner on goodwill because mine is rattling sometimes.
Here in the states it was only covered under warranty. If the bike is out of warranty (which I am sure it is) It will be out of pocket for you. The update did say to try first: tightening the tensioner with a shortened 3mm allen wrench 1/4 turn after you rev the bike and it is coming down to idle. Add a couple drops of oil in it before putting the Cap bolt back in. See if that helps you any before buying the updated tensioner.
Mine actually quit making the noise while waiting 2 months for the new part to come of back order. It was still under warranty and I was holding the revs at the noisey 3-4000 rpms to make it break. One day it just quit and din't make the noise again.
The problem is just annoying and won't cause any damage, but very annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ok so I have to take out the middle bolt. And underneath there is the tensioner screw which I have to tighten?
Last year mine also made the rattling noise while idling. But only sometimes.
Do you know how I can see which version of the tensioner I have? And what are the differences?
And do you know how much that original tensioner would cost?
 

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Yes, but only turn it 1/4 turn as the engine is slowing down. That is when the cam chain is at its most slack. There isn't really any visual differences between the 2 tensioners. I remember something about a paint mark but don't remember the differences. Color or lack of?
The part has updated a couple times and has a retail of 108 USD.
 

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After i did tsp and aps adjust with YDT i don't have jump in thorttle valves on my 15'fz and 16'fj
totally different bikes...smooth even i low rpm and high gear :) cheap and work great
 

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After i did tsp and aps adjust with YDT i don't have jump in thorttle valves on my 15'fz and 16'fj
totally different bikes...smooth even i low rpm and high gear :) cheap and work great
Where were you able to get access to the YDT? I'd love to get my hands on a copy - at the least so I can figure out how to do TPS & APS adjustment & replacement without a visit to the dealer.
 

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Where were you able to get access to the YDT? I'd love to get my hands on a copy - at the least so I can figure out how to do TPS & APS adjustment & replacement without a visit to the dealer.
i work few years in authorized workshop so i have access and i think you cant get copy because you must be a dealer and have diagnostic tool,maybe you can do it with obd2 and some universal interface?

:)
 

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i work few years in authorized workshop so i have access and i think you cant get copy because you must be a dealer and have diagnostic tool,maybe you can do it with obd2 and some universal interface?

:)
I agree it is possible - however its going to take someone with access to the actual Yamaha tool to provide commonly understood values - the factory says ' adjust the sensor so that 11-21 is displayed' that value is meaningless outside of the YDT. If someone had access to the YDT they could then say 'factory value 11 = 1.387v and 21 = 4.889v' then anyone could adjust/replace the sensors using commonly available tools.

Just for clarity I made up those voltage #'s - I have no idea what is realistic, I'm just assuming they are going to be common 0-5v sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
After i did tsp and aps adjust with YDT i don't have jump in thorttle valves on my 15'fz and 16'fj
totally different bikes...smooth even i low rpm and high gear :) cheap and work great
Then how did you actually adjust the valves? How did it work?
On the '14 Mt09 you can read the values of the sensors with the display.
 

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Then how did you actually adjust the valves? How did it work?
On the '14 Mt09 you can read the values of the sensors with the display.
normaly thortle valves not open smooth from the begining when you are in diag mode 15' 03 or 13
like from 16-20 - jump of values
so you must unscrew lightly tps and asp sensor and move both to the point when the are a bit open-after sneaky point

you must look closely what happens with thorttle valves than numbers because there is no universal fit for this in numbers

remember- you have tps and aps-two sensors in throttle bodies,you can tray adjust only one in beginning - but still look in values for both

158409
 
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