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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody have this throttle tube device installed on FZ09?? This thing has some good reviews. I do plan to get the ECU reflash from Stoltec moto but then I can't ride for a week. Sounds like the ECU reflash is worth every penny of that $100 plus shipping. Back to this throttle tamer tube. This is my first fuel injected bike. I guess the snatchy throttle is a characteristic of many fuel injected bikes. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

G2 Street Tamer Throttle Tube - G2 Ergonomics
 

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That seems like it might be a good band-aid, but hopefully the ECU re-flash will actually cure the problem and only costs a little more. I'll know how the re-flash works in a few days when the UPS guy appears.
 

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I had one on another bike and the delrin bushings are nice and smooth. That was about all I noticed though.
 

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I don't see the need for the flash or my bike might not be working right because I don't have a problem with any of the modes , I might just be smoother on the gas from all my years racing karts and dirt cars. The A mode will get your attention in a hurry . RR:cool:
 

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I don't see the need for the flash or my bike might not be working right because I don't have a problem with any of the modes , I might just be smoother on the gas from all my years racing karts and dirt cars. The A mode will get your attention in a hurry . RR:cool:
What type of dirt cars?

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Vintage midgets with BCRA and golden wheels . A 1948 curtis V8 60 and a 1960 Edmunds with a chevy II THE v8 60 was the most fun to drive. RR:cool:
 

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Throttle snatchy/jerkiness issues are caused cable lag/slack and throttle position sensor misalignment and by the fuel cut off in the ECU.

Stoltec's reflash seems to fix the fuel cut off but does nothing for the other two mechanical issues. I know on my bike, the mechanical issues caused at least 60-70% of the problem but the issue is still there. Now I have it adjusted to about the typical lag in a carbureted bike. Still not as smooth as it should be. I will likely be getting a reflash at sometime.
 
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Vintage midgets with BCRA and golden wheels . A 1948 curtis V8 60 and a 1960 Edmunds with a chevy II THE v8 60 was the most fun to drive. RR:cool:
Awesome. That's how it all started for me. There was a little 3/8 mile dirt track close to where I lived. I went to see the bro of a friend of mine with my gfriend of the time. That was it! Been spinning wrenches ever since. We were racing Civics in the 4 cyl. class. Stock then wide open mod later on. I did prep my own little car but with my luck the clise the track mid season. I also worked for Bert Transmission for years, CNC programmer.

From there I worked on FFord, FAtlantic, Champcars, Indycars and some sports car. Now Im a care taker for a private car collector. Sweet gig!

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Throttle snatchy/jerkiness issues are caused cable lag/slack and throttle position sensor misalignment and by the fuel cut off in the ECU.

Stoltec's reflash seems to fix the fuel cut off but does nothing for the other two mechanical issues. I know on my bike, the mechanical issues caused at least 60-70% of the problem but the issue is still there. Now I have it adjusted to about the typical lag in a carbureted bike. Still not as smooth as it should be. I will likely be getting a reflash at sometime.
Ok so did you adjust the cable slack? Make it tighter or looser? Throttle position sensor adjustment. What's involved in making adjustment? Thanks!
 

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Ok so did you adjust the cable slack? Make it tighter or looser? Throttle position sensor adjustment. What's involved in making adjustment? Thanks!
1. Eliminate the cable slack using the adjuster in the cable about 6" from the throttle.

Don't over tighten it or the drag will overcome the throttle return spring.

I remove the 4 tank mount bolts front and rear and block the back of the tank up about 3.5". I use 2 2x4 blocks taped together to hold the back of the tank up.

Then you can see the cables on the left side of the injectors. As you twist the throttle the cable will pull up the slack. Keep adjusting to minimize the slack.

2. The throttle position sensor is located just inboard from the throttle cables on the injector assembly. The throttle position sensor is held in place with 2 8mm bolts.

To adjust the throttle position sensor to the minimum setting is very easy because the FZ-09 has a built in sensor: the mode switch. The mode switch will only allow you to change modes when the throttle position sensor is at the minimum setting.

Then loosen the 2 8mm bolts and adjust the throttle position sensor small increments clockwise (when viewed from the right side) until the mode switch does not change modes when you press the mode switch. Then move throttle position sensor back in the counterclockwise direction in very very small increments.

Test the mode switch after each incremental adjustment.

You may have to move it back and forth a few times to get it right in the sweet spot where a very small increment in one direction prevents he mode switch from working and a equally small amount in the opposite direction enables the mode switch.

At the minimum setting, tighten the 2 8mm bolts and then retest.

When you tighten the 2 8mm bolts it may move the throttle position sensor slightly and disable the mode switch and you will have to readjust it.

Easy peasy.
 

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Ok so did you adjust the cable slack? Make it tighter or looser? Throttle position sensor adjustment. What's involved in making adjustment? Thanks!
I hope he doesn't mind me saying so, but moto helped me with mine and it feels incredibly better. Being a new rider I had no idea how much slop was in my throttle; I thought that's how it was supposed to be!! It feels worlds better now. It's making me become a better shifter too, I can't get away with sloppy releases of the throttle as I shift .

Truth is, I am slowly understanding what exactly he adjusted a little more and more as the days go by. Thanks again MotoMania.
 

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Interesting Moto. Do you have any voltage reading for your mod? Min - max V.
motomania's got the right idea. however, the fi's built in diagnostics mode gives you the ability to adjust the throttle position sensor (yamaha refers to the sensor on the throttle cables as 'accelerator position sensor' and the 'throttle position sensor' is the sensor on the throttle butterflies) as loose or as tight as necessary without needing a voltmeter or using the mode switch.

go into diagnostics mode* and click over to diagnostics codes 14 and 15, these are accelerator position sensor signals 1 and 2. the range for 'fully closed' for 14 (aps1) is 12-22, and for 15 (aps2), it's 10-24. so loosen the bolts on the sensor and rotate it so the number with the throttle grip closed is closer to the higher end of the range, but not exceeding it (as you open the throttle, the numbers go up). doing this sensor adjustment effectively removes the 'slack' in the sensor. after tightening the sensor bolts, verify that both numbers don't exceed the upper limits.

keep in mind though that as with the throttle cables, the 'slack' in the sensor is there for a reason. it's possible the resting value could change over time. just something to keep in mind if you discover one day you're unable to change drive modes.


* to start up in diagnostics mode - turn the engine run switch off, hold down 'select' and 'reset' while turning the key on. keep holding them down (will take several seconds) until the display says 'diag'. then release and hold down both buttons again for about 2 seconds until the display changes again, you'll see a large number where the speedo is displayed, that number is the diagnostic code number. 'select' and 'reset' scroll through the different codes. click them until you see 14/15 displayed. the actual value of the sensor is displayed to the right of 'di'
 

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Thanks motomania and bobby. I'll probably ride my new bike before I start playing with these adjustments, just to see how it is from the factory. If it's adjusted as well as the chain was (think piano string tight!!) then I'm guessing I'll have the tank lifted the next day. ;)
 

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Throttle snatchy/jerkiness issues are caused cable lag/slack and throttle position sensor misalignment and by the fuel cut off in the ECU.
Fuel cut (on deceleration) is only part of the mapping 'issue'. The other larger issue is in how Yamaha mapped the throttle response.

Stoltec's reflash seems to fix the fuel cut off but does nothing for the other two mechanical issues. I know on my bike, the mechanical issues caused at least 60-70% of the problem but the issue is still there. Now I have it adjusted to about the typical lag in a carbureted bike. Still not as smooth as it should be. I will likely be getting a reflash at sometime.
My maps address fuel cut, they they also completely remap the throttle curves for both STD and A modes. Think of this as an infinitely customizable Throttle Tamer. Best part is, you can make changes quickly that wouldn't ordinarily fit in the throttle tube housing. Additionally, the fuel cut on deceleration is modified along with some minor timing tweaks and few other odds and ends.

A reflash can't compensate for an out of adjustment TPS or too much/little throttle slack. As you mentioned, riders have had issues with throttle cable slack as long as bike's have had them. Like chains, cables elongate over time. Adjusting cable slack is a basic maintenance item. In the case of the FZ-09, I don't know if the 'credit' goes to Yamaha or the dealer (as a PDI item), but every owner should adjust the slack. On any bike!

motomania's got the right idea. however, the fi's built in diagnostics mode gives you the ability to adjust the throttle position sensor (yamaha refers to the sensor on the throttle cables as 'accelerator position sensor' and the 'throttle position sensor' is the sensor on the throttle butterflies) as loose or as tight as necessary without needing a voltmeter or using the mode switch.

go into diagnostics mode* and click over to diagnostics codes 14 and 15, these are accelerator position sensor signals 1 and 2. the range for 'fully closed' for 14 (aps1) is 12-22, and for 15 (aps2), it's 10-24. so loosen the bolts on the sensor and rotate it so the number with the throttle grip closed is closer to the higher end of the range, but not exceeding it (as you open the throttle, the numbers go up). doing this sensor adjustment effectively removes the 'slack' in the sensor. after tightening the sensor bolts, verify that both numbers don't exceed the upper limits.

keep in mind though that as with the throttle cables, the 'slack' in the sensor is there for a reason. it's possible the resting value could change over time. just something to keep in mind if you discover one day you're unable to change drive modes.


* to start up in diagnostics mode - turn the engine run switch off, hold down 'select' and 'reset' while turning the key on. keep holding them down (will take several seconds) until the display says 'diag'. then release and hold down both buttons again for about 2 seconds until the display changes again, you'll see a large number where the speedo is displayed, that number is the diagnostic code number. 'select' and 'reset' scroll through the different codes. click them until you see 14/15 displayed. the actual value of the sensor is displayed to the right of 'di'
Agreed ^^^. If you've owned a Triumph or Buell, you are aware that TPS resets are common maintenance. Not just the software reset, either. I'm talking about manually clocking the sensor so that the reference voltage matches the throttle plate setting. If the software and the sensor aren't in complete agreement, the ECU will 'think' that the engine is operating at a different throttle opening than it really is. As a result, fueling is altered and will eventually limit performance. In short, sensor creep is a real phenomenon...
 

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The throttle tamers are very cool. I thought they'd be a load, but actually do more than I gave them credit for.

BUT, they wont replace a reflash. Fuel cut sucks, and these wont take care of that. The tampers are like having a set of shoes, two sizes too small. The fix is cutting off your toes. No one can argue it wont work, but is a wrong approach to fixing the situation.

I mean this in fun.....however, With the prices you guys are paying for a refash.....You;d better shut up and hope the Flasher (is THAT what we call these guys????) does not see what everyone else charges for the service...Stoltec, sorry for calling you a flasher. I thought abotu stripper, but thats just as bad.
 

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I mean this in fun.....however, With the prices you guys are paying for a refash.....You;d better shut up and hope the Flasher (is THAT what we call these guys????) does not see what everyone else charges for the service...Stoltec, sorry for calling you a flasher. I thought abotu stripper, but thats just as bad.
Stripper, flasher, whatever. I've been called worse. Someone mentioned my wife's whip in another thread. You develop a thick skin in working customer service ;)
 

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I installed the F2 throttle tube which I bought on Amazon for $58. It greatly reduced the snatchy throttle response and made the bike much more rideable. Worth the money, but I'm still interested in the re-flash as well.
 
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