Yamaha FZ-09 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Four weekends ago, I went on an hour long ride. When I returned, I made the mistake of dropping the kickstand which killed the motor. I can’t remember if I started the bike again or just turned it off.

The next weekend I did not ride the bike. The weekend before last , I installed the Grave’s fender eliminator on Saturday. On Sunday the bike would not start. When the bike was cranked, the lights would dim. Thinking it was a battery issue, I put the battery tender on it. A couple of hours later the green light was solid on so I started the bike and turned it off. It was too late for a ride.

This Saturday the bike would not start. The motor would turn over a couple of times but not start. The lights would dim and display would blank in and out. The motor would pump only a couple times and then stop pumping. After it stopped pumping, there was a sound under the seat like a relay was clicking. I put the bike on the battery tender again which did not help. Having read the hard start threat, I remove California evap canister which did not help. With ignition on, I flash the high beam on. It seemed to have plenty of juice in the battery. The next day, I suspecting the cutoff switch for the kickstand. I found grease on the switch. I attempted to start with the kickstand down with the same results. I would have thought the cutoff switch would prevent the starter from functioning. Could somebody attempt to start the bike with kickstand down to determine if the starter is inhibited? If the cutoff switch is the problem, how would I disable it?

Today I read the thread on wet spark plugs. If this is the problem, how do you get to the spark plugs? I assume the tank and air box must be removed.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
sounds like you need to charge the battery. Some of the CA bikes have been hard to start, but IIRC they always spun over like normal. I suspect that your tender in not working or possibly has a faulty connection......The clicking relay and dimming display are both pretty good indications of a low battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,202 Posts
It will start with the kick stand down, when in Neutral...thats how I start it every time.

The kick stand only kills the engine when in gear. I wish I could be of more help with your issue...good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
962 Posts
Pull in the clutch - if it's the sidestand sensor (or the wires to it), then it should start with the clutch in. FWIW: The norm for bikes with a sidestand cutoff switch is to crank, but get no spark...

If it starts with the clutch in, then check the wires to the cutoff switch. If you don't find a loose one - then try jumping them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
sounds like you need to charge the battery. Some of the CA bikes have been hard to start, but IIRC they always spun over like normal. I suspect that your tender in not working or possibly has a faulty connection.
+1^, Sounds like a dead battery based on the 'light dimming", "clicking", and "only as few turns on the engine" comments
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,424 Posts
Four weekends ago, I went on an hour long ride. When I returned, I made the mistake of dropping the kickstand which killed the motor. I can’t remember if I started the bike again or just turned it off.

The next weekend I did not ride the bike. The weekend before last , I installed the Grave’s fender eliminator on Saturday. On Sunday the bike would not start. When the bike was cranked, the lights would dim. Thinking it was a battery issue, I put the battery tender on it. A couple of hours later the green light was solid on so I started the bike and turned it off. It was too late for a ride.

This Saturday the bike would not start. The motor would turn over a couple of times but not start. The lights would dim and display would blank in and out. The motor would pump only a couple times and then stop pumping. After it stopped pumping, there was a sound under the seat like a relay was clicking. I put the bike on the battery tender again which did not help. Having read the hard start threat, I remove California evap canister which did not help. With ignition on, I flash the high beam on. It seemed to have plenty of juice in the battery. The next day, I suspecting the cutoff switch for the kickstand. I found grease on the switch. I attempted to start with the kickstand down with the same results. I would have thought the cutoff switch would prevent the starter from functioning. Could somebody attempt to start the bike with kickstand down to determine if the starter is inhibited? If the cutoff switch is the problem, how would I disable it?

Today I read the thread on wet spark plugs. If this is the problem, how do you get to the spark plugs? I assume the tank and air box must be removed.

Any help would be appreciated.
It may be too discharged for the tender to work. Use a real charger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,806 Posts
The lights would dim and display would blank in and out. The motor would pump only a couple times and then stop pumping. After it stopped pumping, there was a sound under the seat like a relay was clicking. I put the bike on the battery tender again which did not help.
sounds like your battery's shot and it won't hold a charge. it can still have enough juice to power the headlight by itself, but not enough to crank the engine (the starter draws much more current than the headlight).

run a voltmeter across the battery terminals - what voltage does it give? a fully charged battery should be around 12.6 volts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,330 Posts
A battery tender is a tender for maintaining the charge in an already charged battery.

A battery tender WILL NOT recharge a dead battery.

You have a dead battery.

Get another battery charger with at least 2 amp output and charge the battery.

If you don't have another battery charger, then pull your battery out of the bike and take it to an auto parts store and have them charge it and load test it. Most will do that for free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It would start with clutch pulled in. I will check the voltage tonight and put the battery on a regular charger. I am hoping it is just a battery or the battery needs a deep charge.

Thanks for the input.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,734 Posts
JustWantToRide wrote:
The norm for bikes with a sidestand cutoff switch is to crank, but get no spark...
I've never seen that. If the bike is in gear and the sidestand is down....it will not crank....even with the clutch pulled in. If it's in neutral, and the sidestand is down, it should crank and start whether the clutch is in or out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RichBaker

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
Although not totally related, I can see this issue leading to another. Just a battery saver reminder. If you ever remove the battery to charge or take to a test shop, do not set it on a concrete floor.

I don't understand the physics, but this will discharge and kill a battery. If you're storing a battery, put it on a shelf, or a piece of wood between the battery and concrete.

I learned this the hard way with an airplane battery. It was an expensive lesson since it took me two times to get it right.


Everyone else seems to be on track. Sure sounds like a battery charge issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
A battery tender is a tender for maintaining the charge in an already charged battery.

A battery tender WILL NOT recharge a dead battery.

You have a dead battery.

Get another battery charger with at least 2 amp output and charge the battery.

If you don't have another battery charger, then pull your battery out of the bike and take it to an auto parts store and have them charge it and load test it. Most will do that for free.
That's not necessarily true. I recharged my daughter's dead Jeep Cherokee's battery with my battery tender. It took about a week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,242 Posts
That's not necessarily true. I recharged my daughter's dead Jeep Cherokee's battery with my battery tender. It took about a week.
+1

It will recharge a battery.... just veeeeeeerrrrrrry slowly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,424 Posts
Case in point. My battery tender would not start a charge on my Miata recently. The car sits in the garage for long stints. I put it on my regular charger for a couple of hours, then my tender worked when it had a partial charge. I did this a couple of weeks ago, so I know the theory works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
It may be too discharged for the tender to work. Use a real charger.
A battery tender WILL charge a battery. That is what they are specifically designed for, to charge up and maintain a full charge. But they do not like big batteries like on cars or trucks, only small ones. I have and use one on all my bikes and my lawn mower. I bought it at Cycle Gear for about $25 on sale.
If you use a battery charger like on used for a car it can fry the battery. A small engine battery like used in motorcycles, and ATV's needs to be charged at 1amp or less per hour. The battery tender is set to .75 amps, perfect for the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
666 Posts
Apparently, concrete killing the battery is not entirely true anymore.

"Car batteries used to be encased in hard rubber, a substance that was porous enough that battery acid could seep through it and create a conductive path through the damp concrete, draining the battery. The cases of today’s batteries, however, are made of sturdier stuff that far better contains their contents than those of yesteryear. As well, time has brought technological improvements to the seals around the posts and the vent systems.

These days, the problem of car battery electrolyte seepage and migration has been all but eliminated. Says battery manufacturer Yuasa, "Nowadays, containers are made from a solid plastic that does not allow any current to flow through it, so the batteries do not discharge, even if they sit in a few inches of water."

Interestingly, some experts (including Car Talk's Click and Clack) believe that storing car batteries on concrete floors might actually be a better idea than keeping them on shelves or other surfaces because the cold of the floor works to slow the self-discharge (leakage) rate. "
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
962 Posts
It would start with clutch pulled in. I will check the voltage tonight and put the battery on a regular charger. I am hoping it is just a battery or the battery needs a deep charge.

Thanks for the input.
If it started with the clutch pulled in, then either the sidestand switch is bad - or more likely the wires are disconnected or pinched. Trace it's wires up and check the connection, unplug it and jump it if need be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,202 Posts
Apparently, concrete killing the battery is not entirely true anymore.

"Car batteries used to be encased in hard rubber, a substance that was porous enough that battery acid could seep through it and create a conductive path through the damp concrete, draining the battery. The cases of today’s batteries, however, are made of sturdier stuff that far better contains their contents than those of yesteryear. As well, time has brought technological improvements to the seals around the posts and the vent systems.

These days, the problem of car battery electrolyte seepage and migration has been all but eliminated. Says battery manufacturer Yuasa, "Nowadays, containers are made from a solid plastic that does not allow any current to flow through it, so the batteries do not discharge, even if they sit in a few inches of water."

Interestingly, some experts (including Car Talk's Click and Clack) believe that storing car batteries on concrete floors might actually be a better idea than keeping them on shelves or other surfaces because the cold of the floor works to slow the self-discharge (leakage) rate. "
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top