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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys&gals,

So I'm a very very happy owner of the RB mt09.
I picked my bike up on Saturday, I've done around 120km's thus far.
I am taking the bike in for the dealer to setup the sag in 30 minutes.

I'm wondering what I should ask for in the way of setup, as when I called he asked why I wanted them to set up the sag etc? I'm 6'4 and 90kg.

Also I'll be buying a oil filter and 4L of oil to do my first service asap. What motul oil should I get? And any filter?

Thanks for your time.
Joe
 

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Just tell them how you ride and what type of roads/riding you like to do, for example fast road or commute or with pillion. All these help him decide how to setup the bike for you.
I think the 10/40 SemiSynth is the one I'd go for fully at this stage would be overkill, but other will have their say, filter stick with OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks boro.
A guy from service came out and asked straight away is the front soft.. I said yes and that I had already set the back to second hardest setting.

He changed the front from stock to the second highest line, said that will be fine and walked off.
As mentioned I'm 6'4 and 90kg's. Any advice from here is appreciated, I'll buy the tools and do it myself. Half the fun :cool:

As for oil I got yammalube 10-40 semi synthetic. And stock oil filter. Will probably do first change at 250 km's.
 

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I hope they didn't charge you any money for that less than feeble, half a$$ed suspension "non adjustment" That's absolutely pathetic.
 
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You will probably need more preload than that for 30mm sag...

With the increase in preload, did he adjust damping??

All you need is a 14mm socket and a flat head screwdriver.
 

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Do some reading here about suspension changes and adjustments that members have done. That dealership didn't do much to help you!

Mike
 

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It depends on your usage of the bike, but two bounds you can work between are 35F/30R and 42F/38R (try and limit the difference front/rear to about 4-6 mm to maintain stability. Depends on personal preference, road conditions, and intended use.
 

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It depends on your usage of the bike, but two bounds you can work between are 35F/30R and 42F/38R (try and limit the difference front/rear to about 4-6 mm to maintain stability. Depends on personal preference, road conditions, and intended use.
Nick, is that total sag or rider sag figures?
 

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I guess I phrased that wrong as I am not versed on suspension.
The bike has sag and then the rider adds sag with gear and extras.
So what I gather from your statement is lift the bikes weight off the tire and measure at the tallest extension of the suspension and then deduct total sag from that.
Or,, do you mean the bike resting on its weighted suspension, then deduct total sag from the bike?
Sorry for the stupid question but I always thought the BIKE has sag and then the rider added MORE sag for TOTAL sag.
????
 

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All weight off wheels, this is zero.

Sag is set with weight on wheels, including rider and gear.

This suspension travel, is sag.

If you amp up preload, you will need to readjust damping to keep her from turning into a pogo stick. On this bike, it seems the damping screws need to be nearly all the way in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
30-35 mm sag front and rear is a typical figure you want for street bikes.
Great thanks Yoyodyne, i will look into setting it to 30-35. With my bag and gear i imagine total weight around 100kg.



I hope they didn't charge you any money for that less than feeble, half a$$ed suspension "non adjustment" That's absolutely pathetic.
They didnt charge, all he did was use a spanner and move both the forks to the 3rd top line. Then walked off.

You will probably need more preload than that for 30mm sag...

With the increase in preload, did he adjust damping??

All you need is a 14mm socket and a flat head screwdriver.

Is Dampening controlled by the flat head screw on top of the right fork? If so this was not touched.
I'm quite clueless with this as this is the first bike I have owned that had the screw on top to adjust. Looks like i have a lot to learn :\

What adjustments should I make from here? Should I alter the forks further or is 3rd line OK?

What an awesome group of people here, i appreciated everyone's support :eek:
 

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You have to measure your sag first, adjust preload accordingly to achieve your desired sag. At that time, you will have to probably turn in your damping screws on the fork, and shock, almost fully in, to slow rebound.

There isn't a lot of adjustment in these forks. And they are really better suited for lighter riders. But, you can still optimize the OEM components, so that they work the best that they can, for you.
 

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Gary, as mentioned above, there is rider sag and free sag. For what you're doing, the rider sag is all that matters.

If you amp up preload, you will need to readjust damping to keep her from turning into a pogo stick. On this bike, it seems the damping screws need to be nearly all the way in.
Increasing preload does not increase spring rate, and as such, does not impact damping. Now, if you swapped springs to a different rate, that is another story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Still catching on to all the above but for now I've done the cable tie test at a moderate pace with no wheelies.


Looks like its pretty low but not too bad? Will run it for a couple more days.
 

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Get a new dealer...............




Hey guys&gals,

So I'm a very very happy owner of the RB mt09.
I picked my bike up on Saturday, I've done around 120km's thus far.
I am taking the bike in for the dealer to setup the sag in 30 minutes.

I'm wondering what I should ask for in the way of setup, as when I called he asked why I wanted them to set up the sag etc? I'm 6'4 and 90kg.

Also I'll be buying a oil filter and 4L of oil to do my first service asap. What motul oil should I get? And any filter?

Thanks for your time.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Finally got time to alter the dampening screw's. Did the fork screw nearly full, rear spring nearly full as well.


I've hit 370km's in 12 days, this bike is a machine. Absolutely loving it and this forum.
A couple times as I down shift and/or break the back wheel seems to lose traction and fish tail a little but. What's causing this?
Any other suspension changes I should consider?

Did a full oil change at 284km, went with yamalube 10/40 and stock oil filter. Is it worth doing another change before the big 1k service?

Noticed some rattling now and then pretty sure it's the CCT.. Was hoping as it is a brand new bike I may have got the updated tensioner part..guess not.
Have the Yamaha tail tidy and indicators being installed on Saturday! Dealer have me free installation, stoked. Let the mods begin ;)
 
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