[JM00JM]

Thanks Abe

 

[tim.pigeau@gmail.com]

JM00JM,
You do NOT have to remove the airbox to access them. They are on either side of the intake tubes and the airbox does not obstruct you at all. All I do is lift the tank, rotate it and place it where my seat normally is (use a towel or something in between the tank and the bike to prevent scratches). With this method I don't even need to disconnect the fuel lines.

 

[JM00JM]

JM00JM,
You do NOT have to remove the airbox to access them. They are on either side of the intake tubes and the airbox does not obstruct you at all. All I do is lift the tank, rotate it and place it where my seat normally is (use a towel or something in between the tank and the bike to prevent scratches). With this method I don't even need to disconnect the fuel lines.

Thanks for the info. I've already done it now and it felt like the airbox needed to move out the way, so I just removed it

 

[JM00JM]

I'm still not sure exactly which connector is which though

 

[abe57]

I'm still not sure exactly which connector is which though

Look closely at the pic on post #13...anything electrical connected to the throttle body's just remove one at a time clean them up and then apply a bit of dialectic grease " squeeze it into the female part of the connector " and connect it back and move on to the next one ....

 

[Rexster]

I'm gonna try this.....Drives me nuts!!!!!!!!!

thanks

 

[JM00JM]

I've come to the conclusion that my fuel cut issue was caused by the weather and low temperatures because it's gone now its heated up a bit here. Cant find any other explanation.

 

[tim.pigeau@gmail.com]

I found that too for a while. The connectors expand in the heat, breaking the airtight seal. When its cold the connectors contract again, trapping moisture. If this is the issue, it will get worse. I've taken to putting some dielectric grease on the seal of the connectors to prevent this. The connectors are on the left and right of the 3 intake tubes of the throttle body. It doesn't hurt to clean out the connector for the throttle actuator as well (on the rear side of the throttle body, a little to the right).

 

[Roninracing88]

Way to keep with it. Gonna have a look at my 2019 to see if thats whats going on with mine. In Georgia so have serious heat/humidity.

 

[blackfireball5]

My bike is experiencing these exact symptoms. Gonna inspect these connectors later today. If this is my issue it will have saved me a ton of time.

 

[blackfireball5]

JM00JM,
You do NOT have to remove the airbox to access them. They are on either side of the intake tubes and the airbox does not obstruct you at all. All I do is lift the tank, rotate it and place it where my seat normally is (use a towel or something in between the tank and the bike to prevent scratches). With this method I don't even need to disconnect the fuel lines.

I just did this tonight. You absolutely have to take the airbox off to access number 11 in the diagram. It's on the other side of the throttle bodies, toward the front of the bike.

Haven't gotten to ride it after the cleaning. So we'll see if it helps.

 

[JM00JM]

Mine is still fine. Don't know how I fixed it. Also flashed ECU now but was fixed before that.

 

[RonGerb]

Created my account and started my gold subscription just to reply to this post. 2016 FJ09 and I've done everything to try and resolve the stutter/surge. For me it happens around 2-3K RPM while giving very slight throttle inputs. So far i've done plugs and throttle sync, adjusted the aps sensor, new chain and sprokets, kev's o2 mod, Vcyclenut flash and block off plates, and recently removed the tank AND airbox to clean and grease all the electronic connections including the coils, injector connectors, APS and TPS, and even the battery terms. Right now I have the APS on order from amazon because of post #10 where @Shamrock describes water in his APS and I've ridden through LOT's of rain. @Shamrock, I would love to hear the symptoms that you had with the bad APS. I've tested the APS in diag mode while slowly turning the throttle very slowly and it seems to be fine hitting all the numbers but at this point I'm stumped.

My worst thought about the situation is that it could be a bad output shaft bearing as described here https://www.fz09.org/forum/6-fz-09-...um/6-fz-09-general-discussion/46434-gearbox-teardown-anyone-got-experience.html

With 21K on the bike I have been guilty of going long intervals without cleaning or adjusting and possibly over tightening and unlike the guy who got his output bearings replaced this bike has been down and repaired through insurance at the dealer and I'm pretty sure the Y.e.s. warranty is voided when this happens.

I'm hoping the APS sensor will solve the problem but it's on its way from Shenzhen and now amazon is saying it's "Delayed in Customs" so i'll be expecting that halfway through June if not July. I've been having this problem since last year and thought I just needed to replace the chain but after reading countless post about the surging/stutter experienced by tons of people on this forum I'm starting to get a little discouraged.

 

[blackfireball5]

After riding it last night, my issue still persists after cleaning the sensors. My bike is really new still. Less than 3k miles.

Not sure what is causing it. I have a stutter/surging with around 1/4 throttle and cruising. I notice that idle seems slightly uneven. Very light bouncing of the rpms. Bike is fine WOT or normal accelerating.

 

[woolyt22]

can you adjust the tps and the aps doing the mode button ?as in turn it alittle mode button no work back up alittle mode button works , now should be good method

 

[Klye07]

Thank you!!!! I've had this issue for a while now and hope this is finally the fix! I kept going at it over and over again and this problem kept rearing it's ugly head.

 

[Klye07]

I've noticed if you drag the brakes when the stuttering happens, the stuttering goes away. Is this problem possibly related to an engine load sensor or the ECU reading/calculating engine load?

 

[Ifan]

I've noticed if you drag the brakes when the stuttering happens, the stuttering goes away. Is this problem possibly related to an engine load sensor or the ECU reading/calculating engine load?

If it's the same stutter i have (mini backfires at steady throttle, low rpms), going up a steep hill (loading the engine) makes it go away. Haven't gotten around to do a TB sync or checking my connections yet. I've heard other bikes on youtube to the same thing. It's just an annoyance, but pretty annoying


What i know so for:
- Bike is a bit rich. Running Akra TI, o2 sensor eliminated and a 2017 flashtune flash. Axle blocks and nut is going brown, and people tell me they smell gas behind my bike when i give it a bit of throttle.
- I get gurgling / minipops for about a second on decel when crossing the 4k rpm border after a 1/4 turn or more acceleration.
- I had this issue before adding the block off plates.
- I didn't notice this issue before the exhaust and flash. Did both at once, but I've ridden in lots of rain and keep my bike very clean. Might not have not noticed it with the stock exhaust due to how silent it is.
- Plugs were replaced last service, no change.
- The Akra exhaust has a built in leak in the collector that akrapovic tells me is normal, and I've checked other Akra headers and they also have the same gaps to let air in.

See the video below for what I'm experiecing. It's extreme at the 40 second mark.

 

[Crossbar1773]

Ifan,

How many miles do you have and what year is your FZ?

Before listening to the video, i thought its a classic air leak at the header gasket area.

No pun intended, but that sound is baffling to me. It doesn't sound exhaust related. Usual decel popping sounds completely different than your issue, its weird. Its almost sounds like 2 things rubbing together when the engine is at load, like when you say at 4k rpm's.

Id suggest looking elsewhere for the issue. Any other sounds or vibrations going on? Hows the chain slack (dont think its this, but just asking).

The gas smell, do you ever try to get every last drop in the tank when you fill up, or do you stop before seeing liquid gasoline?

Others may have better idea's.....

 

[Ifan]

Ifan,

How many miles do you have and what year is your FZ?

Before listening to the video, i thought its a classic air leak at the header gasket area.

No pun intended, but that sound is baffling to me. It doesn't sound exhaust related. Usual decel popping sounds completely different than your issue, its weird. Its almost sounds like 2 things rubbing together when the engine is at load, like when you say at 4k rpm's.

Id suggest looking elsewhere for the issue. Any other sounds or vibrations going on? Hows the chain slack (dont think its this, but just asking).

The gas smell, do you ever try to get every last drop in the tank when you fill up, or do you stop before seeing liquid gasoline?

Others may have better idea's.....

23000 km, 2016 EU MT09 with TC and ABS. It started after mounting the exhaust and flashing it a couple of years ago, or maybe it was there before that but you couldn't hear it with the stock exhaust. The aftermarket exhaust has been off and mounted again, with new gaskets as well, no difference.

Nothing is rubbing, the sound is definitely from the exhaust. The sound is a bit more muted irl compared to the video. It only happens at steady / almost closed throttle in the 3-4000rpm range. It doesn't happen when the bike is cold and doesn't happen with load (going up a steep hill).