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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did my second oil change on the bike last night. Bolt was very hard to take off (even with bike warmed up) even though I tightened it to spec after the first one. I finish the change, put the bolt back on, but don't snug it down as much as the first time (hand tight and then 1/2 turn with the wrench). Went for a ride, and parked the bike. I go out to my bike and there's a puddle of oil under it! I get the wrench out and try to tighten the bolt, but it keeps spinning. :mad: So, busted oil pan threads from tightening to spec once and a second time under spec! Anything I can do with the warranty or am I SOL and have to buy a new pan or rethread the thing?

I feel like I definitely bought a lemon... Head light that fogs up, kill switch that turns off whenever it feels like it, and now this!
 

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"Mechanic" error is most likely the cause of stripped threads.

I doubt warranty will help.

Don't feel bad, you are not the first nor will you be the last to strip out a oil drain plug.

It happens.

My suggestion is to pull the pan and have a shop put a solid threaded insert like a Time-sert and not a helicoil type thread insert.

Or replace the pan with a new stock one and be more careful with the new one.

If you buy a new one, LMK I may want you old one for a modification idea I have.

If you don't want to do either of the above, you can go to just about any autoparts store and buy a tapered, oversized drain plug for about $5 or less and install it into the pan. It works but will eventually strip out again unless you buy the one that has a tiny drain plug inside the oversized drain plug. Take you current drain plug with you to the autoparts store so they get you the correct one.

If your head light is fogging up, that means moisture is getting into the headlight. Probably because a seal is not installed properly.

What is the problem with your kill switch? If you can figure out a way to duplicate the problem the dealer should be able to fix it under warranty.
 

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Did my second oil change on the bike last night. Bolt was very hard to take off (even with bike warmed up) even though I tightened it to spec after the first one. I finish the change, put the bolt back on, but don't snug it down as much as the first time (hand tight and then 1/2 turn with the wrench). Went for a ride, and parked the bike. I go out to my bike and there's a puddle of oil under it! I get the wrench out and try to tighten the bolt, but it keeps spinning. :mad: So, busted oil pan threads from tightening to spec once and a second time under spec! Anything I can do with the warranty or am I SOL and have to buy a new pan or rethread the thing?

I feel like I definitely bought a lemon... Head light that fogs up, kill switch that turns off whenever it feels like it, and now this!
Bolts dont strip by themselves, if you torqued it properly last time and It wasn't cross threaded, there is no reason that it should be stripped.

Maybe your torque wrench is not calibrated correctly or you cross threaded it...


Anyway, I doubt very much anyone would warranty that...A time-sert or a new pan are your options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
"Mechanic" error is most likely the cause of stripped threads.

I doubt warranty will help.

Don't feel bad, you are not the first nor will you be the last to strip out a oil drain plug.

It happens.

My suggestion is to pull the pan and have a shop put a solid threaded insert like a Time-sert and not a helicoil type thread insert.

Or replace the pan with a new stock one and be more careful with the new one.

If you buy a new one, LMK I may want you old one for a modification idea I have.

If you don't want to do either of the above, you can go to just about any autoparts store and buy a tapered, oversized drain plug for about $5 or less and install it into the pan. It works but will eventually strip out again unless you buy the one that has a tiny drain plug inside the oversized drain plug. Take you current drain plug with you to the autoparts store so they get you the correct one.

If your head light is fogging up, that means moisture is getting into the headlight. Probably because a seal is not installed properly.

What is the problem with your kill switch? If you can figure out a way to duplicate the problem the dealer should be able to fix it under warranty.
Any reason why the bolt would be so much tighter even thought it was tightened to spec? I've been doing oil changes ever since I got my first car and have never had anything like that happen to me. Called up the dealer, they pretty much said haha eff off and rushed me off the phone. I was doing some reading and I'm gonna go for the Time-Sert and do it myself. Never done anything like it but I've got plenty of experience working on cars, it can't be all that difficult.

That's the thing, this entire bike is a collection of things not installed properly, from a bad seal on the headlight to a shoe mark on my handlebars to poorly installed clips that hold the wiring together. Whoever assembled this thing at my dealership takes absolutely no pride in their work.

I can't replicate it, it just randomly pops out of place. It's happened in parking lots, and its happened cruising in a straight line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bolts dont strip by themselves, if you torqued it properly last time and It wasn't cross threaded, there is no reason that it should be stripped.

Maybe your torque wrench is not calibrated correctly or you cross threaded it...


Anyway, I doubt very much anyone would warranty that...A time-sert or a new pan are your options.
Torque wrench is fine and I finger tightened the bolt before wrenching it in so there's no chance of a cross thread. What I don't understand is the bolt was tighter when I took it off than when I put it on. Anything to do with heat cycles or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)

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When using a time sert you should try and use the same size.....so yeah, the first one you linked is fine just so long as the inserts are the correct length
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright, thanks. Order placed, and I added a magnetic M14x1.5 bolt to the order just because.
 

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IMO either tighten the drain bolt by feel or use a torque wrench but at a lower setting than the factory 31 ft·lbf, 25 maybe.
 

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Same thing happened to me on my first oil change. Drain bolt was crazy tight and once I put it back in, it kept spinning. Oil pan thread was stripped.
Dealer told me it was my fault and said they could fix it but I'd be paying for it. I ended up putting a new oil pan myself.
Bike is at the dealer for service now so we will see how it works for them this time.
If you want to get a new part, definitely look for it online. It is much cheaper then list price at the dealer. MSRP is about $199. I got it for around $119 I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the link crosshairs. I remember seeing that site before, I'm gonna bookmark it for future use. Got a new gasket for the pan - I decided to fix the threads instead of replacing the pan.
 

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this happened to me once. The solution was to have a motorcycle dealer enlarge the drain hole to a slightly larger size and went to a larger size bolt. In addition I had to use thread sealer every time I change the oil to eliminate a very small leak that continued after the mod. I also added a crush washer every time I change the oil after the mod.
 

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I guess this thread is somewhat dead, but I did notice both the oil filter and plug were driven on way overspec when i did my first oil change. I had to put 2 strap wrenches on the filter side by side to budge it. Just about got out a chisel and cut it off. I think mine's ok but if it wasn't i'd email or call yamaha directly I think.

I quit using torque wrenches long ago unless its something critical like head bolts that stretch or something weird one use kind of thing. The old fashioned ones on a spring arm work great but they don't make them anymore and I broke mine, Another tool that comes in handy so as not to strip or break stuff getting it off is a manual impact wrench you can hit with a hammer. If you have a motorcycle you need an impact wrench.
 

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Always a good idea to replace the crush washer every time. People don't want to spend that extra buck or two but they might pay for it later. I know from experience though that shops tend to over-tighten oil filters and drain bolts. I've done hundreds of oil changes and never had a single issue.
 
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How did the repair go?
The hardest thing about putting a threaded insert in is keeping it perpendicular to the existing hole. If it isn't, the drain bolt gasket won't seal properly.

My guess is that the bolts were put in dry during assembly and when you undid it the first time, it pulled a couple of threads with it. Steel bolts corrode with aluminum threads and produce that recognizable "snap" noise when the corrosion lets go. They require a lot more torque to undo also.

Sometimes the corrosion is too much and the aluminum shears instead. If you look at the bolt, you will see something filling up the threads. It's the reason why I put a little drop of chain lube on all threads before they go back in. The sump bolt is an exception as it is usually coated in oil.
 
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