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Discussion Starter #1
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Just wanted to share two new items:
Gerbings Dual controller for my heated Jacket liner and gloves
Woodcraft spool/sliders. I use spools on all my bikes and might as well go for the slider as well.
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My only suggestion is to make sure that the alternator on the FZ09 has enough power to be able to handle the both the jacket liner and the gloves........wattage wise. I haven't seen any specs on the alternator output yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My only suggestion is to make sure that the alternator on the FZ09 has enough power to be able to handle the both the jacket liner and the gloves........wattage wise. I haven't seen any specs on the alternator output yet.
So far so good. Rode for an hour and a half no issues. That is the nice part of the dual controller. You can adjust each seperate and dial in your warmth level. If the system stuggles at idle just turn it down.
I run the same setup on my Gsxr1000 and my Gsxr750. Never had an issue.
 

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Good news so far. I run the same setup, jacket liner and gloves with a Gerbing dual controller, but mine is wired into a Honda ST1300...which has a huge alternator
 

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I have a Mobile Warming undershirt with a LiIon battery and if it gets any colder than that, I am parking it.
 

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If you are talking about the swingarm spools.....yes, they are 6mm
 
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My only suggestion is to make sure that the alternator on the FZ09 has enough power to be able to handle the both the jacket liner and the gloves........wattage wise. I haven't seen any specs on the alternator output yet.
Cycle World published 415W @ 5000 RPM (29.6A). As an anecdotal bit of information, I've personally run heated gloves and jacket on both of my Triumph 1050's that come with a 35A charging system...possible, but not a lot left and sitting in traffic can drain things down. However, the FZ-09 has one less headlight, so it's going to be close. Short answer is...keep an eye on it.
 

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I can't remember the exact wattage of the gloves AND liner, but it seems that it was somewhere around 100 Watts total for both pieces. That would equate to approx. 8.5 amps and leave approx. 300 Watts left for the bikes operating needs.
 

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Agreed. At this point, it'd be easy to 'pick up' some extra wattage by eliminating the dual filament front turn signal bulbs and converting to a 35w HID. You're looking at a ~30W savings with those changes, so the risk starts to diminish.
 

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The 09 front signals and I would guess the rears are dual duty, on all the time as running (is that what it is called?) lights and as blinking turn signals. I believe he meant by replacing the bulbs you can get rid of the running light function to save power. I don't know if the running lights are a safety factor in daylight.



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The front signals are 'dual duty' and are always illuminated. The rears only illuminate when signaling (or four-way flashing). So by replacing the dual filament bulb with single, you lose the light functionality, but free up some wattage. Depends if you feel the lights are significant from a safety perspective...but FWIW, most bikes don't have running lights (aside from the federally-mandated always on headlight).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The front signals are 'dual duty' and are always illuminated. The rears only illuminate when signaling (or four-way flashing). So by replacing the dual filament bulb with single, you lose the light functionality, but free up some wattage. Depends if you feel the lights are significant from a safety perspective...but FWIW, most bikes don't have running lights (aside from the federally-mandated always on headlight).
Turn signals already changed out to LED's front and back. and 35w HID headlamp. I feel pretty good about the charging issue.

http://www.yamahafz09.com/forum/10-fz-09-builds/424-barkbusters-storm-s1-admore-led.html
 

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interesting read.
my plan is to add my gerbings plug in on the FZ, and some oxford heated grips.
I also use the dual controller on my other bikes, but only for a jacket liner.

what would be a good way of testing the draw?
start the bike, crank both devices to max (vest and gloves)
and take a voltage reading while the bike is idling, and look for the usual 13.5-14.2V

am I on the right track?

Depending on the strenght of the stock bulb, I may upgrade to a 55W HID light, but time will tell. Besides a radar detector that draws minimal amps, the rest of the bike will stay stock (read: electrical)
 

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You could do what you describe to get a feel good. Or, you can install a voltage meter permanently that will indicate when you're no longer charging.

But, if you really want to measure the current draw, you have to either reference the draw of the accessories (always published) and add them up, or measure with a good meter. However, most home owner meters can't measure draw over 10A, so beware. To do this, you'd need to set your multimeter to current and and run one lead to the 12V+ on the battery and the other lead to the cable you're using to run your accessories (the cable is disconnected at this point and your meter completes the circuit).
 

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Sorry guys if its cold enough for heated gear I'am in the so cal desert on my dirt bike call me a weather whimp :nike:
 
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