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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I installed some sonic springs and used 10w oil. Of course I did not read the directions that came with the springs until bike was put together. The instructions that came with the springs say to set the oil level to 120 mm. I set mine to 147 / 148 mm like the service manual said. :confused::confused: Can I get by with NOT enough oil?
 

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I would say to go with what the manual said. A lot of us run with a little extra oil - but I don't think you have extra. But I'd ask Marthy if I were you...
 

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That is less oil, not more. you can unscrew the cap, use a wound syringe from any pharmacy and inject about 20cc to raise the level. Ride it first, get a good setup and see if the level needs to be corrected at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That is less oil, not more. you can unscrew the cap, use a wound syringe from any pharmacy and inject about 20cc to raise the level. Ride it first, get a good setup and see if the level needs to be corrected at all.
Well I feel better for not having extra oil, but now I feel dumb:p
 

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120mm seems quite steep to me. If you want to play safe follow the manual but I got great results with 130mm. You're fine since there's "not enough oil" but if you want to tune the nose dive under braking... add some oil.

From 148mm to 130mm... 27cc on the dot! LOL :cool:
 

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How did the install go , were they pretty much just drop in or was there modifying to do. I am looking on also upgrading my springs to a .85 or .90 and using thicker oil poss 10w or 15w but looking for a easy install. Just need to get the brake dive minimized for my fat A$$ (240 with gear) and I'm not setting it up for aggressive riding.
 

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I got my Sonic springs and oil this week. Can anyone recommend a good mechanic near Chicago. Hell, I'll travel if need be.
 

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You put in less oil. The 148 level is LOWER in the tube...

I installed some sonic springs and used 10w oil. Of course I did not read the directions that came with the springs until bike was put together. The instructions that came with the springs say to set the oil level to 120 mm. I set mine to 147 / 148 mm like the service manual said. :confused::confused: Can I get by with to much oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How did the install go , were they pretty much just drop in or was there modifying to do. I am looking on also upgrading my springs to a .85 or .90 and using thicker oil poss 10w or 15w but looking for a easy install. Just need to get the brake dive minimized for my fat A$$ (240 with gear) and I'm not setting it up for aggressive riding.
Simple drop in replacement. I changed my fork seal on the right fork while I was at it due to leak as well. I've never done any kind of wrenching on forks before, and this was very simple. After taking my time and making sure I did everything correct on the right fork, the process of taking the old spring out, putting new one in and changing the oil must of took no more than 20 minutes for the left fork.
 

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Ride it as-is and see how you like it. If you're not running into the bottom and are happy with the performance, leave it. If you're bottoming out and/or want to firm up the bottom of the stroke, add oil like Marthy says.
 

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I have had the right fork start leaking twice already and am about the put in my second replacement seal. I didn't measure the oil level, rather used 15.47 ounces as the manual states. Is there any problem with doing it that way? Maxima comes in 16oz bottles so it's really easy to do...

I really don't want to do this again and I can't figure out why it's already leaking... 2 blown seals in 2.5k miles? No big wheelies... Only incidental front up a couple inches from hard accel.

Is there a problem from using ounces?

Also, Dave Moss told me to take the spring out of the new fork seal and shorten up by 5mm to make it seal tighter. Has anyone heard of that before?
 

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It sounds like you need to disassemble the fork leg and COMPLETELY clean the fork. There can't be any contamination at all. If it means you need to remove the cartridge to do a thorough job, do it. While you have it apart, check the chrome slider for any nicks, chips, or burrs. If you have anything that catches your fingernail, carefully remove the imperfection.

The fluid measurement is OK, but it's best to measure the oil level after a good bleed. There may be some residual fluid left in the fork after you drain and swap springs, so the most consistent approach is to measure the height.

I personally wouldn't modify a seal on a street bike. A lot of engineering goes into the seals and most riders never have issues on the street. If you're looking to improve the sealing, I'd look at getting a set of SKF greens.
 

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How would you recommend to clean it? I dont Have a solvent tank... I thought about that too, just no idea what I can do that won't just add more contamination...
 

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if you've verified that the fork tubes are straight and have no imperfections, but they still keep leaking for some reason, see this post:

http://www.fz09.org/forum/34-yamaha...n-fork-cartridges-seal-faiure.html#post102476
Thank you! I am almost positive this is the issue with mine. 3rd seal is starting to leave some smudges, but no actual leak yet. The last one did the same, it starts to smear a little oil before it lets go finally. I'll try this before I send the bike to the scrap yard.

Also, shows Dave Moss has a bit of experience with this as well, both tricks seem to have a similar effect.
 

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Not saying this is the issue but it could just be dirt getting in there. I have a seal cleaner from Risk Racing. use it on my KTMs. They will start to leak and you pull the wiper down then run this thing around (looks like a shark fin) up under the seal and thats all it took, easy peasy.
 
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