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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

First time poster, long time FJ rider. I've got a 2015 FJ-09, 56000km, has treated me great over the past 4 years. No major mechanical issues, normal maintenance. Only issue I've had is a dented oil pan which I replaced with the newer model.

Until a week ago...

I had set off on a trip. Bike running great. I got fuelled up and did a highway run to another town to grab breakfast, about 100km, no stops or lights. I was fully loaded with gear, panniers, and pillion. The section was mountainous highway with long hill climbs, high speed, high load etc. Didn't notice any issues during the section.

When I pulled in to park, I noticed the idle sounded lumpy, something I never heard before. Bike would barely start or idle without throttle, but seemed to run ok at speed. Stalled if I left it to idle, or idled very rough.

See video. Listen for the background squeaking noise (best way I can describe it...)


I thought maybe bad gas, so I fuelled up again at another station. No change.

So I brought it back home and grabbed my car for the trip. It ran OK, had power, on the way home at speed, but I could tell something was off even at speed.

So far troubleshooting:
-changed spark plugs, they were coming close to due. Looked OK to me, all same. no change after
-fuelled up 3 times on way home (possible bad gas should be cleared)
-oil changed 1000km before trip, still full, clear
-coolant full
-checked vacuum lines on throttle bodies, all in place
-cleaned throttle bodies, opened manually using diagnostic mode. intake valves are still there ... look ok
-no engine light, no codes in diagnostic mode 60 or 61
-checked header temperatures with thermal camera, all same or similar
-diagnostic mode throttle position is 16 and 100 at zero and full throttle

The noise does not seem to sound like the cam chain tensioner... or at least it doesn't have the same high speed ticking noise I've heard on other youtube videos of failed CCT on FZ/FJ-09 motors. I don't think its bad gas, all the stations were high volume 'top tier' stations.

It was running great before this 100km section...

My next steps are to check the valve clearances, reset CCT, and perform a throttle body sync.

I am hoping for some assistance troubleshooting, if anyone can help with the noise diagnostic, greatly appreciate any help. If more info is needed please let me know.

Thanks all.

Greg
 

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I'm not going to be much help - I can barely hear the 'squeak' in the video. An old trick is to take a long screw driver and hold the handle against your ear and the point against different parts of the engine case. You should hear the squeak get louder as you get closer to the source if it is an internal engine part. I've heard water pumps that were 'squeaky' when they start to go bad, but that shouldn't cause idle issues. Seems most of the folks I've read about with idle issues resolve them by replacing either the APS or TPS sensors or cleaning their connections. I think I recall one thread where a guy solved idle issues with a new battery, if yours is old you might want to check it.
This is what my manual gives if you wanted to try and bench-test the APS/TPS:
161652
 
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Can you do a compression check? It can be as simple as putting the bike up on a rear or center stand, putting the bike in top gear and turning the rear wheel forward by hand - Ignition OFF. Look or feel for equal resistance on each compression or any funny whistling noises. It's the exhaust valves you have to worry over

I don't think a bad water pump would make the engine stall and you would see some leaking on the case just under it.
I don't hear a CCT noise or clutch noise for that matter.
Could be electrical, the sensors are not very waterproof.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry for the late reply, thanks for the replies. I have been troubleshooting, and done a leak down test. Sure enough I have a leaking exhaust valve on cylinder 2, likely burnt from tight clearances. Cyl 1 and 3 tested A-OK

So the cylinder head has to come off. I have a good machine shop nearby.

Anyone with experience with this? Any tips on removal? Does the engine have to come out completely?
 

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You are going to need a service manual. There is a link to one on this other thread (2nd post)
...a leaking exhaust valve on cylinder 2, likely burnt from tight clearances.
I am curious about the tight clearances. Hindsight is 20-20, did you let it go too long without checking clearances?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You are going to need a service manual. There is a link to one on this other thread (2nd post)
I am curious about the tight clearances. Hindsight is 20-20, did you let it go too long without checking clearances?
Thanks, I have the service manual. I am wondering if I can pivot the engine down in the frame (with only the rear lower engine mount in), far enough to remove the head. It looks doable. Removing the engine completely seems tough, this engine is a large beast. At least for a home garage mechanic like myself.

I called my machine shop, $220 to replace the burnt valve (assuming it's only the one) and fix up the seat. Of course assuming nothing else is damaged.

Yes this is 100% on me, left the valve check too long, was going to do it this winter. I don't recommend it. Reading more about these bikes, if anything the valve check should be done early.

It's a bigger winter project now 😊
 

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I made a wooden engine stand out of a 2x4 and a piece of 3/4" plywood, for use when lifting the bike to work on the front or back. It can be used to put the engine into. If this link works, you can go forward and backward on the slide show to see how it works. Probably need to fill the exhaust space with a few 2x4 off cuts

Not sure how much the engine weighs, but it has to be lighter than my old suzuki bandit engine.
$220 seems cheap to me.
 

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Hello all,

First time poster, long time FJ rider. I've got a 2015 FJ-09, 56000km, has treated me great over the past 4 years. No major mechanical issues, normal maintenance. Only issue I've had is a dented oil pan which I replaced with the newer model.

Until a week ago...

I had set off on a trip. Bike running great. I got fuelled up and did a highway run to another town to grab breakfast, about 100km, no stops or lights. I was fully loaded with gear, panniers, and pillion. The section was mountainous highway with long hill climbs, high speed, high load etc. Didn't notice any issues during the section.

When I pulled in to park, I noticed the idle sounded lumpy, something I never heard before. Bike would barely start or idle without throttle, but seemed to run ok at speed. Stalled if I left it to idle, or idled very rough.

See video. Listen for the background squeaking noise (best way I can describe it...)


I thought maybe bad gas, so I fuelled up again at another station. No change.

So I brought it back home and grabbed my car for the trip. It ran OK, had power, on the way home at speed, but I could tell something was off even at speed.

So far troubleshooting:
-changed spark plugs, they were coming close to due. Looked OK to me, all same. no change after
-fuelled up 3 times on way home (possible bad gas should be cleared)
-oil changed 1000km before trip, still full, clear
-coolant full
-checked vacuum lines on throttle bodies, all in place
-cleaned throttle bodies, opened manually using diagnostic mode. intake valves are still there ... look ok
-no engine light, no codes in diagnostic mode 60 or 61
-checked header temperatures with thermal camera, all same or similar
-diagnostic mode throttle position is 16 and 100 at zero and full throttle

The noise does not seem to sound like the cam chain tensioner... or at least it doesn't have the same high speed ticking noise I've heard on other youtube videos of failed CCT on FZ/FJ-09 motors. I don't think its bad gas, all the stations were high volume 'top tier' stations.

It was running great before this 100km section...

My next steps are to check the valve clearances, reset CCT, and perform a throttle body sync.

I am hoping for some assistance troubleshooting, if anyone can help with the noise diagnostic, greatly appreciate any help. If more info is needed please let me know.

Thanks all.

Greg
Check the spark plug gap make sure it’s right also check the fuel line check there
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update, with some pics. For the record, you are able to rotate the engine down on the lower rear engine mount to get space to remove the head. I used a chain hoist to lower it, went quite smooth. Found the burnt exhaust valve. Off to the machine shop, will update. (y)

Hopefully I've convinced some of you to check your valve clearances :)

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PXL_20201105_013509532.jpg
PXL_20201105_021114001.jpg
 

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thanks for following up on your own post so we all know what happened!
 
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56000km is nearly 35K miles. Burned exhaust valves happen with this engine and you have to check the clearances early - say 5-10K miles. Some engines are fine, some are not it seemed to be roughly 50/50 back when the bike was released. Looks like Yamaha has not found or fixed the reason why this happens.

I hope the OP's valve seats are OK - the burned valve will be a nice desk ornament
 

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I don't think it's that common. We've had two, maybe three reports of burnt valves. One of them was more likely a vacuum leak.
 

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Should have put a date on this, but these were the last results I had. Inlet clearances were good these are for the exhaust. July 2016 was the last mod date on the file. Note I increased the tolerance on the exhaust clearance. Yam wants .001" but only sells .002" shims so...
162093
 
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