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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

So I have seen a thread on here about doing reverse shift on the FZ. Well, I definitely want this, seeing as my race bike is reverse. Anyway, I went about it in a different way than other people have.

I looked at the bike and looked at the problem, which is the shifter rod hitting the rearset. Well, it looks to me like that is a REALLY beefy mount, so I decided to cut into it. Pictures below,

First, I undid the shifter and flipped it, then marked about where it crossed the rearset.



Then I looked from the top and marked how deep into the rearset I needed to go.



Then I put electrical tape around to use as a guide and to prevent and accidental scratches. (I also covers all lubed, sticky parts with papertowels)



Here is the ruff cut.



Here are 2 up close shots, I am holding the shifter down, so this is as close as it will get, about 2-3mm of clearance all around.





Final shot of finished work. I cleaned all the edges and took off all the rough bits. I used a hand file and cleaned everything, so it has the cleanest look possible, without going into a machine shop.



What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea, I have a mill at work, I was gonna take it off and do it on there, but then I realized that if the swingarm pivot bolt and decided that was way too much work.

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I did a wire up on my method also. I preferred to not cut that rearset piece
 

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Nice work. If I go Reverse on the track bike, I'll probably do the same to the street bike.
 

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Vern, your typo shows what is often on your mind. ;)
I guess technically, it is a typo, but it's induced by my "swype" app on my galaxy note 3. I love that app, but the auto-select on the words get me quite often. Besides, I don't do much in the way of wiring anymore. I work on 2300V and 4160V breakers and the associated switchgear, starters, etc.
 

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I did mine this exact way. Not as clean as this though. I used a dremel to make the cuts and had trouble getting the right angles to cut.
 

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Nice! Here's my lil vid that kinda describes it:



Great minds think alike ;)
 
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Anyone consider making a new link rod with a bend in it?
 

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I simply made a notch on mine to clear the shift rod... light weight setup :)

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Me too... De Ja Vu... I think we just covered this in a new Triplethreat thread.
 

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Anyone consider making a new link rod with a bend in it?
That's what I was hoping for; a company to come out with a replacement rod with the correct bends to get around the factory mount. :/ I haven't had any luck finding anything yet though.

I'm thinking about simply dremeling mine, like in this thread, but I'm concerned about the structural integrity of the mount. The last thing I want is the entire mount to crack when I'm hundreds of miles from home.
 

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That's what I was hoping for; a company to come out with a replacement rod with the correct bends to get around the factory mount. :/ I haven't had any luck finding anything yet though.

I'm thinking about simply dremeling mine, like in this thread, but I'm concerned about the structural integrity of the mount. The last thing I want is the entire mount to crack when I'm hundreds of miles from home.
My is dremeled as demonstrated above as well. I have no fears of the structural strength of this thing FWIW. No guarantees in life but I think you're good!


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My is dremeled as demonstrated above as well. I have no fears of the structural strength of this thing FWIW. No guarantees in life but I think you're good!


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Thanks, man! Good to know. I sometimes stand up on my pegs, and just want to feel confident that they won't crack/break on me.
 

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It's an inexcusably stupid design (should have been a 2-piece rearset) but as long as you're not jumping up and down on the pegs it'll be fine.

I have a mind to create a plate which then takes standard R6 or R1 triangular bracket rearsets.
 

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I did mine a long time ago before I had seen anyone else had done it and I jump up and down on that side aggressively to test it, rather it break in my garage than somewhere else and it seems plenty strong. I have decent metal working skills and would have done a self fix while I waited for a new one to come if that were required. Given the location of the metal cutting I was never real worried about it.


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It's an inexcusably stupid design (should have been a 2-piece rearset) but as long as you're not jumping up and down on the pegs it'll be fine.
It really is a bizarre way to mount the rearsets, and the piece itself is a weird design. I don't see why there needs to be that big hollow cylinder, other than some kind of aesthetic thing that the designer decided he wanted. But there's no excuse these days for any sport bike (or "sporty-ish" bike, even) not to have a) easily removeable rearsets, and b) the ability to change to GP shift without using aftermarket parts.

Ironically, they would have accomplished (b) if that cylindrical area wasn't there (or as big). But the way the swingarm pivot bolt actually holds the rearset in place is just dumb.

In any case, the rearset is plenty beefy and even removing the metal to clear the shift rod it'll be more than strong enough. I plan on doing this mod to mine whenever I can spare the time...
 
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