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Replacing the stator cover

9K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  ncyrider 
#1 ·
Have a new stator cover with all the gaskets, o-rings and other parts to replace the damaged one on my '15 FZ, and I started on it the other day (already used loctite on and tightened the stator assembly to the side case) and have a few questions.
1. Do I need to scrape off any of the left over thin gasket material that's on the crankcase gasket surface? If so, should I use a specific gasket scraping tool or would anything flat/sharp work?

2. The stator assembly/wires bolted to the inside of the side cover has a little angled metal bracket (held by 2 short Allen bolts) that I forgot how the wire runs past it. Does the wire go behind that bracket, or in front (so it would be right by the flywheel)? I thought I remember it being in front of the bracket (flywheel side) because that wire can't go behind the bracket, but I could be wrong. Here's the bracket I'm talking about (#13 on diagram):
https://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/schematics/schematics/yamaha/yam034/ya0214063005.gif

3. If I have to unbolt the stator and/or that bracket again to switch the orientation of that wire, do I need to clean off ALL the loctite on those bolts before I put any on again? I cleaned off as much as the factory yellow loctite as I could this time with b12 carb cleaner, used red loctite and used a small (inch-lb) torque wrench to torque the stator (10 ft lbs in manual?) /wire bracket (7.2 ft lbs in manual?) Allen bolts.

4. When I am ready to tighten all the stator cover bolts with the new gasket , do I need to tighten them in a criss-cross pattern? Should they be torqued to the specs in the manual, or is it ok not to and just do my best with a (1/4") ratchet? I don't know how much to trust my inch-lb torque wrench as it's a cheap harbor freight one...

Any other tips/info on this engine cover repair, please let me know. Thanks
 
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#2 ·
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2015/fz09-fz09fgy/generator <---------- does this help for the wiring (diagram from partzilla)

you could use a scotch brite pad if you have one of those, abrasive but will not scrape up your cover, but it will remove the gasket material.

with small bolts, I would just hand - tight them, you can snap small bolts in two pieces if you over tighten them. just use the 1/4 ratchet. tighten them all down even. if you don't get it right it will leak.


this is from a thread on fz09.org started in 2014, a few photos of one remove, this might help : https://imgur.com/a/lcygg from this thread

http://www.fz09.org/forum/32-yamaha-fz-09-guides-how-s/1478-changing-stator-crankcase-cover.html
 
#3 ·
Finally getting back to working on this 2015. I will use a scotch Brite pad to remove leftover gasket from the stator cover, but I also have a gasket scraper tool I tried using, are those ok to use for this or not?
After I finish the stator cover I plan to drain the remaining oil left in the engine, get fresh oil in so I can finally start this bike after almost 2 years of sitting.

For a bike that's been sitting that long with the stator cover not tightened up all the way (garaged the whole time, but light debris may have still entered thru that opening?), is it best to do 2 oil changes to "flush" it out? Wondering if I should do this because I have a bunch of Maxima Premium4 oil I don't need, so I might just use that to fill the engine then make sure she runs. Then I would change the oil again, going back to synthetic and replacing the oil filter. Is it ok to switch from synthetic to non-synthetic (wouldn't put any miles on the bike at this stage), then go back to synthetic with a new filter?
 
#4 ·
Yes the gasket scraper will work but just make sure you hold it at a shallow angle so you dont gouge the surface...if unsure stick with the scotch brite pad. If the cover was not tight but mated up against the engine then I cant see how anything could possibly enter...2 oil changes wouldnt be necessary. Switching from synthetic to non synthetic will not cause any problems.
 
#5 ·
Scotch Brite pads worked much better than the scraper. When trying to install the new stator cover, the gear that connects the starter motor to the flywheel/crank was knocked off center, not allowing the dowl/pin to push in and go into the hole behind the gear. Without that dowl, this gear just sits in there loosely, correct? So I wasn't surprised it was out of place, but it took a little effort to get it lined up again, I had to wiggle it back in place tooth by tooth. Because I haven't done this before, I'm hoping I did that part right..
Once I was starting to tighten the stator cover bolts, I noticed the cover would not fully mate up surface-to-surface with the crankcase until I tightened the bolts a little. There was a small gap, and using a little force trying to press/tap the cover on more didn't really seal it up either (didn't have a mallet). Is this ok, even though I checked multiple times for something loose/in the way? Just want to make sure there's nothing I missed that someone may have experienced before on this installation.
Also, is it necessary to use grease on some of the o rings (water pump)? In the service manual's diagram it shows to grease. Wondering because I don't have grease here at the moment.
 
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