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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having more than the FZ-09 in the stable, and with all of my other bikes using "conventional" left switch boxes with the horn at the bottom and the turn signal switch in the middle, I finally admitted defeat- I can't switch back and forth between bikes without occasionally honking the horn when I go to cancel the turn signal. Or having to think about where the horn button is- not a good thing in an emergency. And of course I upgraded to a louder horn so it's embarrassing to say the least.

My son's Daytona 675 has a conventional left switch box that also has the passing light function, so I found one on ebay and it was delivered a few days later. Not as straightforward as I had hoped as the wire routing inside the box is quite different from the stock FZ switch, so I had to shorten some wires and extend others. It took about three hours (I'm slow), but all is done and- wonder of wonders- everything works as it should. The switch box extends down a good 3/8" further than the stock switch, and with the Rizoma bars being lower, there's only about 1/2" of clearance at full left lock between the switch and the tank. That's after I rotated the bar forward a bit, so if you make the mod and have a lower bar, make sure you check clearance. I'm pleased with the result. Left Switch 02-17-14.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No idea actually. I'm guessing it's for a headlight on/off switch for those countries that think they're citizens are capable of making that decision all by themselves....
 

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No idea actually. I'm guessing it's for a headlight on/off switch for those countries that think they're citizens are capable of making that decision all by themselves....
Correct. The Euro models had the option at one point in time.

Nice mod, Stuart. I've thought about doing the same but haven't gotten around to it. There is a special place in hell for the ones who goofed up the horn and signals...
 

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Agreed.... Why the hell did Yamaha decide to switch them around in the first place?? I've just become used to it by this point, but it's sure aggravating. I'd like to do this mod, but just not worth the effort to me personally. Lazy :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Correct. The Euro models had the option at one point in time.

Nice mod, Stuart. I've thought about doing the same but haven't gotten around to it. There is a special place in hell for the ones who goofed up the horn and signals...
Thanks Nick. I could think of another word other than "goofed"... Fortunately the Triumph switch box had enough room inside to handle some splices to extend the headlight and passing light wires. Turn signal wires had to be shortened, and I believe the horn wires were fine as-is.
 

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The BMW GS series has the worst controls ever. The right blinker is on the throttle side. You get whiskey throttle trying to hit it. German over engineering.
 

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Since I very seldom use the passing lamp switch and the Super Tenere doesn't have one anyway, I had a goofy idea this afternoon:
How hard would it be to wire the horn into the passing lamp "trigger" switch and the flash to pass into the old horn button by simply swapping the wires?
-eddie
 

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Do you have an answer for what the block off space is for?
It is a parking light switch. Some countries, like Japan, they are required by law to leave parking lights on when stopped along a city street to go shopping and such. The two side lights in the headlight glow and the rear taillight comes on. This is one of the reasons why there is an LED taillight, to help save battery life when parking lights are on. The front side headlights are low power bulbs.
 

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Thanks Nick. I could think of another word other than "goofed"... Fortunately the Triumph switch box had enough room inside to handle some splices to extend the headlight and passing light wires. Turn signal wires had to be shortened, and I believe the horn wires were fine as-is.
The whole control configuration is a fustercluck. I absolutely honked at my neighbor pulling out of my driveway today by accident trying to reset my signal. It makes me feel squiddish and ridiculous. Sounds like another place where I have to un-engineer Yamaha's attempts to re-invent the wheel. I'll be looking for the easiest swap to wire in cleanly, but it's still low on my priority list. Suspension is next.
 

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The BMW GS series has the worst controls ever. The right blinker is on the throttle side. You get whiskey throttle trying to hit it. German over engineering.
Wasn't one of the old BMW switches where it was all on the right and you rocked it up for a right turn and down for left?
IIRC, a R75/5 I borrowed had that and I resorted to hand signals 1/2 the time.
 

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Don't know. I have ridden the GS650/800 a bunch on Adventure Tours and the left and right side switches are goofy. Only the Germans would try and reinvent a perfectly simple mousetrap.
 

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I got curious and popped open the left side switch housing (two black outer screws + 1 silver inner screw and some gentle prying).
The contacts of the horn and flash-to-pass switches are the copper button and plate type. Press a button, close the circuit,etc...
Aside from lengthening the flash-to-pass wires a bit and shortening the horn wires the same amount, all one would have to do to convert the "trigger" to the horn button and the horn button to be the flash button is swap the wires as seen here.

wiring swap.jpg
 

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I got curious and popped open the left side switch housing (two black outer screws + 1 silver inner screw and some gentle prying).
The contacts of the horn and flash-to-pass switches are the copper button and plate type. Press a button, close the circuit,etc...
Aside from lengthening the flash-to-pass wires a bit and shortening the horn wires the same amount, all one would have to do to convert the "trigger" to the horn button and the horn button to be the flash button is swap the wires as seen here.

View attachment 10277
Now, that is a great idea. I never use the flash to pass and have a hell of a time finding the horn button with my glove when I need it. Looks like Black/Grey -> Red/Orange. etc. What do you think, melt the solder and the wire pulls straight out? Resolder when switched.
 

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Now, that is a great idea. I never use the flash to pass and have a hell of a time finding the horn button with my glove when I need it. Looks like Black/Grey -> Red/Orange. etc. What do you think, melt the solder and the wire pulls straight out? Resolder when switched.
That's seems to be "it", Doug. =)
 

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I got curious and popped open the left side switch housing (two black outer screws + 1 silver inner screw and some gentle prying).
The contacts of the horn and flash-to-pass switches are the copper button and plate type. Press a button, close the circuit,etc...
Aside from lengthening the flash-to-pass wires a bit and shortening the horn wires the same amount, all one would have to do to convert the "trigger" to the horn button and the horn button to be the flash button is swap the wires as seen here.

View attachment 10277

I like that!!! May do it myself after someone confirms the wires and that it works. Would love the flasher to be the horn.
 
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It is a parking light switch. Some countries, like Japan, they are required by law to leave parking lights on when stopped along a city street to go shopping and such. The two side lights in the headlight glow and the rear taillight comes on. This is one of the reasons why there is an LED taillight, to help save battery life when parking lights are on. The front side headlights are low power bulbs.
I'd like to get the switch internals for that to use for denali lights...
 

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Both buttons are momentary, not toggle (Denali) . It should work for a swap because if you look closely the poles are distinctly marked with a slash separator closer to one side that also works as a reference for assembly. That is how I knew which wire went where. I will look at the service manual with a frigging magnifying glass when I get the time. I would rather do that than rewire the used Triumph switch that I have.
 
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