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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For information about why you would want to do this, read this thread.

For information about what an Evaporative Emissions Canister is and does, read this, or this.

I started this thread as a central location for instructions, not explanations, so I'm not going to go into why you would want remove your EVAP canister. The information about how to do it is kind of scattered about in several different threads, and buried fairly deeply within those threads, so I wanted to create a dedicated How-To thread.

Parts Needed: 1x 1/4" Rubber Vacuum Cap

Tools Needed: 4mm Allen Wrench, maybe some Pliers for the hose clamps to spare your fingers.

I would recommend removing the gas tank first, just makes things easier... but probably not required. Either way, you'll need to tilt the tank up for access underneath it, so review these great instructions about removing the tank.

After the tank has been removed/lifted, you'll see the charcoal canister/EVAP canister that is what you're removing.



First, disconnect the line running from the canister to the engine, and then cap it with a 1/4" Vacuum Cap.



You'll also need to disconnect the hose on the right side of the canister, but it will be easier to access and disconnect if you first remove the four bolts holding the canister in place.



Once the canister is free, disconnect the hose on the right hand side.



Once that last hose is free, the canister has no remaining attachments to the bike and can be removed altogether.



The rest of the parts needed can be harvested from the parts that have already been removed. Remove the coupler/connector from the hose coming off of the engine, and connect it to a piece of hose off of the canister.



There are two different sized clamps remaining, so make sure you use the size that snugly fits on the hoses used.



That's pretty much it... connect the hoses to the gas tank just as they were removed and you're done. Just make sure than when you re-attach the tank, or lower the tank, that none of the hoses are kinked. It's fairly easy to check on this with a flashlight through the gaps between the frame and the gas tank of the motorcycle.

Here are some helpful videos from Travis (huge shout out to Travis for helping diagnose this).


 

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Nice write up and pictures, is the small, round canister mounted to the bracket the tip over valve? If so, I was wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to leave that in the system. In case of a crash or drop, if this would actually keep fuel from draining out of the tank, this could help alleviate a fire...what do you think? Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, that's what it is... but the valve is not included on 49 state bikes and they just use a straight vent tube to atmosphere... so it can't be that important :dontknow:
 

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Thanks for the writeup Lucky Devil, and the shout out. Enjoy your easy starting bike!

I'd like to add that I changed the engine oil because I noticed it stunk like gas pretty bad after 10 or more of those tough, flooded starts. Hopefully there won't be any more gasoline stank oil.
 

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Yes, that's what it is... but the valve is not included on 49 state bikes and they just use a straight vent tube to atmosphere... so it can't be that important :dontknow:
I think with the canister it would be absolutely needed or you'd never get the bike restarted after a drop but without the canister it just adds to the cost of the bike so can see why Yamaha wouldn't add it. I was just thinking it might be nice to have as a safety device so some poor bloke wouldn't have to stand by as his bike burned where he dropped it, just me being anal I guess...Mark
 

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Keep that stuff.. I may need to borrow it in a few months!!!
 

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I might consider trading my Cali FZ with less than 1k miles for an unridden non-Cali version. I haven't installed anything but the Seat Concepts foam and Throttlemeisters... Easy to swap back.:cool:
I broke her in using the MotoMan method, never ran her over 8k or so, never ran a steady throttle before 600 or so miles.
 

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After another hard start last night I was finally motivated to wake up and remove that canister!
Thanks for the excellent write up, I was able to do the whole operation in under an hour.
 

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Thanks for the write up and pics also, LD. They made for a smooth removal.
 

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Does anyone have a link to a diag manual?....or diagram? that would show the hose routing for the CA emissions canister?

Thanks
 

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I'm in the middle of the removal now and need some help.
In this step: "The rest of the parts needed can be harvested from the parts that have already been removed. Remove the coupler/connector from the hose coming off of the engine, and connect it to a piece of hose off of the canister."
I don't have another hose coming off the engine. So are you just extending one of the two hoses that go to the tank (and go to the ground on the other end)?
 

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I was having the hard start issue when it was hot and around a half tank. Yamaha told my mechanic to disconnect the canister. No more problems. So maybe a recall in California?
 

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I'm in the middle of the removal now and need some help.
In this step: "The rest of the parts needed can be harvested from the parts that have already been removed. Remove the coupler/connector from the hose coming off of the engine, and connect it to a piece of hose off of the canister."
I don't have another hose coming off the engine. So are you just extending one of the two hoses that go to the tank (and go to the ground on the other end)?
This is a good question. I read the instructions a couple of times and wasn't sure about this either. I haven't attempted this on mine, but have done it on a couple of other bikes I own.
 
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