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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
163795

Hey guys,
I was adjusting the slack on my chain and after I finished and torqued the axle nut down to 150nm I noticed this on the other side. Is this normal?

thanks for the help!
-hD
 

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Yes, if you torque it that tight, many will tell you torque it to around 80ft lbs/110nm which will reduce the amount of indentation in the block. I will leave my personal opinion out of it. Every time you torque it to spec it will continue to deform the block, eventually it will get to the point where it won’t hold the axle from turning, then it becomes a PITA to loosen the nut. I recommend replacing it before it gets to that point. Less torque will slow down the process, but that is up to you.
 

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I just slide an old feeler blade between the nut and block, then torque it to spec. The dent hasn't got worse.
 

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Not being a design engineer I'm not certain, but what little I know tells me that the torque figure has a bearing on swingarm rigidity. That's why i use the factory figure.
 

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Sadly, for those that do not wish to remove the rear license plate/mud guard thingamabob, the Lightech chain adjusters do not work. :mad::mad::mad:
 

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Sadly, for those that do not wish to remove the rear license plate/mud guard thingamabob, the Lightech chain adjusters do not work. :mad::mad::mad:
Hawg Dawg owns a 2014 FZ09.
 

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Does anyone make an aftermarket stainless steel version of that aluminum block that deforms?

Lightech adjusters are too expensive IMO.
 

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Does anyone make an aftermarket stainless steel version of that aluminum block that deforms?

Lightech adjusters are too expensive IMO.
You could spring for some Giles adjusters or do what many of us have done and purchase Lightech knock offs for 50 bucks or so.
Remember, Google is your friend!
 
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I am 1 of several that I've seen on here who had their rear axle nut seize due to tightening to factory spec. From what I've seen; the swingarm can handle it, but the threads on the axle cannot and will fold over causing you to cross thread next time you try to remove.

i've not seen the OEM axle blocks sheer out, but getting chewed up like that doesn't surprise me at factory spec.
 

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Sorry, but I disagree. I've lost count how many times I've had the rear axle out and it's still perfectly fine at factory torque.
As an aside, the wheel nut torque on both our cars is 140nm, only 10nm less than the axle nut and a much smaller diameter thread. 150nm is not a problem.
 
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Yip, same here, always at factory spec, never an issue in the last 40 years on every bike I have owned.

The trick is having an accurate torque wrench and it’s set properly.
 
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