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I'm interested in doing this mod and from what I can gather the items below are needed.

- R1 Master Cylinder sub assy (ex. 2010 R1 part#14B-W2587-00-00)
- remote reservoir w/ hose
- longer brake line due to different connection for radial MC (1-2 inch longer ok?)
- R1 lever

Am I missing anything? Will this bolt right up or will additional nuts/bolts/clamps/ect. also be needed?
 

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If you have a single brake line to the mastercylinder this should work.

You might need a mount for the mirror if you are still using mirrors mounted in the stock location. You can use a part like this from ebay as a mirror mount that replaces the clamp for the master cylinder.

Universal Black Motorcycle Handlebar Mirror Mount 10mm 7 8" Aluminum Clamp | eBay

They come in 8mm and 10mm and left and right hand thread so make sure you have the correct one.
 

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A bracket for the remote reservoir is also needed. I used a Suzuki MC and I didn't need longer brake lines (banjo on bottom)...not for sure about the R1 MC. Depending on what bars you are using and any other mods you may have done in that area - clearances could be tight. I'm running Vortex 'fat' bars and the taper down to 7/8" is way out near the control area - so it was very tight on my bike. There are quite a few things that need to be in the right place to be usable, i.e. bleeder, turn signal wire connections/switch, clearance for brake light activator on lever, etc... On mine, the turn signal switch on the bottom of the MC was very close to the wires exiting the kill switch control box, but it did fit. :cool:
 

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I'm interested in doing this mod and from what I can gather the items below are needed.

- R1 Master Cylinder sub assy (ex. 2010 R1 part#14B-W2587-00-00)
- remote reservoir w/ hose
- longer brake line due to different connection for radial MC (1-2 inch longer ok?)
- R1 lever

Am I missing anything? Will this bolt right up or will additional nuts/bolts/clamps/ect. also be needed?
Are you buying new or used? Might as well get the Brembo RCS if you are buying new. You can use the 07 a 08 R1 MC since they share the same brake set as the 09 plus R1.
 

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A bracket for the remote reservoir is also needed. I used a Suzuki MC and I didn't need longer brake lines (banjo on bottom)...not for sure about the R1 MC. Depending on what bars you are using and any other mods you may have done in that area - clearances could be tight. I'm running Vortex 'fat' bars and the taper down to 7/8" is way out near the control area - so it was very tight on my bike. There are quite a few things that need to be in the right place to be usable, i.e. bleeder, turn signal wire connections/switch, clearance for brake light activator on lever, etc... On mine, the turn signal switch on the bottom of the MC was very close to the wires exiting the kill switch control box, but it did fit. :cool:
Do you have a part number for the Suzuki MC you used? What other parts did you have to buy?
 

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Not off hand. It was replacement parts for a massive recall Suzuki had on late model 750s, 600s, and 1000s. I have an 06 750, which already had the MC replaced on it. So when I got my 'recall' parts, they found a home on the FZ :)

I had to buy the following to make it work:

1. reservoir bottle (I didn't like the huge one that came with the suzuki parts kit.)
2. reservoir bottle bracket.
3. Tygon tubing
4. MC bar clamp with mirror post (I'm running aftermarket mirrors, so I used a RH thread. If you're using stock, you will need a LH thread bracket)
5. Lever for new MC.
6. Brake light switch (I had an old Suzuki one that I utilized)

I'm not for sure what the piston size is, thinking 3/4", which yields a very firm lever. The stock throttle position didn't work either. I had to rotate the throttle clockwise to get the cables to clear - this required drilling a new hole in the handlebars.
 

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I'm interested in doing this mod and from what I can gather the items below are needed.

- R1 Master Cylinder sub assy (ex. 2010 R1 part#14B-W2587-00-00)
- remote reservoir w/ hose
- longer brake line due to different connection for radial MC (1-2 inch longer ok?)
- R1 lever

Am I missing anything? Will this bolt right up or will additional nuts/bolts/clamps/ect. also be needed?
I think this a great idea, with some steel lines should be a nice upgrade,

used should be able to had for cheap

anyone puts a suzuki part on ther yamaha, im driving to your house to slap some sense into you :)
 

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Let me know what brake line you go with, I'd like to do this mod too.
 

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That sure would be stiff if you are right about the size. I am thinking about going to a 14 mm for more feel.
if you mean you wanted a firmer/more direct feel, 14mm is going the wrong way - it would feel a little softer than the stock '09 master cylinder (15mm) as the lever pull would be longer. all else being equal (particularly total caliper piston area), a smaller master cylinder piston gives longer lever travel but greater force multiplication whereas a larger piston gives shorter lever travel and less force multiplication. if you go way too small on the m/c piston, feel becomes spongy. way too big and the brakes would feel wooden.

late model r1 and r6 master cylinders are 16mm.

i believe marthy's using an fz8 master cylinder which is 16mm but has an integrated reservoir and mirror mount so less installation fuss.

if you haven't already, get braided steel lines and pads first. you may find that to be more than adequate.
 

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Good Morning,

I want to order the parts to do this today, but I need to know what stainless brake line(s) to order. I already have the Spiegler lines for the clubman bars and would like to only have to buy a line to replace the one from the master cylinder.

Also, Do I have to order the Front Stop Switch Assembly part #4HM-83980-00-00?
 

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Good Morning,

I want to order the parts to do this today, but I need to know what stainless brake line(s) to order. I already have the Spiegler lines for the clubman bars and would like to only have to buy a line to replace the one from the master cylinder.

Also, Do I have to order the Front Stop Switch Assembly part #4HM-83980-00-00?
What would be the issue with using the Clubman bar lines? Too short?
 

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I developed a line for the radial (stock replacement line configuration), as the output is off the bottom, not the side.

However, check out the Hel radial adapter kit. It's designed to work with existing lines and runs about $25 or less. I've used it in the past with great results, but I'm not caring them (yet?).

According to Nick.
 
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