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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike wouldn't start in gear, didn't think much about it until I sat down with the owners manual, shocking I know.. Not to read the manual until after riding... Kind of like that South Park episode about agreeing to apples terms and not reading them but anyway after further inspection the switch under the handlebars was unplugged so the hubby plugged it back and cranked it and the clutch is so tight it pulled the bike forward. You can't adjust the clutch enough to make it not engage, anyone else run into this problem?
 

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Any bike I've had has always "jumped a little forward" when starting in gear, if that's what you are referring to. Is this a first bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, it's my third and they all pull a little but not try and rip out of your grip and die, it's like if you let the clutch out too far when you are trying to crank it
 

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Well, that doesn't sound normal. Maybe one of the guys have an answer.
 

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Sometimes, in slow maneuvers, I have found myself in a much higher gear and before stopping, stall the engine- the bike starts immediately on cranking without pulling away as you are describing. This has happened on previous bikes too. The clutch lever should have enough free play, as should the brake lever. If nothing fixes it, take it to the dealer. I don't think keeping the wire unplugged is a appropriate solution.
 

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I always start my bike in gear to avoid the big clunk putting it into first. I fully put on all my riding gear. Before starting, I sit on bike, I put the kick stand up, turn on the ignition and check that a 1 is showing on gear indicator ( I coast into my garage sometimes in second). I then pull in my properly adjusted clutch, use my weight to rock the bike backwards to free the clutch (you can tell when that happens as the bike rolls a few more inches). I then start the bike, feather the clutch up the driveway to the street. I continue to hold in the clutch a few more seconds till temp show other than LO. IMHO clutches always drag in the morning when the oil is cold and the clutch springs had squished out much the oil between the plates. Even with my method I get a little lurch forward some times but my bike is aimed out of the garage with nothing close to the front tire. Give these steps a try after you have adjusted your clutch.
 

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Huntergirl..........try starting it IN gear with the clutch pulled in AFTER you've ridden it long enough to get the oil/engine warmed up. Every bike I've owned will act like what you described, when the oil/engine is cold.
 

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I was just looking into this today as I too noticed the jump forward. I'm not sure why but I don't think a clutch adjustment would fix that because the clutch doesn't grab at all after that initial start with the clutch disengaged
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, he was thinking since it was brand new it may have to wear in, but it was real crappy they didn't tell us and they may plug it back in at first service...
 

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THe dealer left the plugs unplugged because they forgot to plug them in. Mine were loose. In fact, I go through my bikes to ensure everything is tight because I have learned that they don't really care. On my FZ, they put the hot cable on the side of the battery post, which was a pain to get to and fix.

As far as lurching is concerned, tripplethreat is right about cold oil, and I always adjust my clutch cable length after the bike is warmed up. I never start a bike in gear because I let them warm up to 100 degrees, and I am not going to sit there with the clutch in for that long.
 

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THANK YOU!!!! OMG THANK YOU! I have hated the fact that I couldn't re - start after stalling by grabbing the clutch and hitting the starter. The embarrassment factor was 100 fold when I first got my baby and the clutch was sensitive and I would have to shift into neutral before re - starting when I stalled. Leave it to the dealerships sick sense of humor to increase the changes of embarrassing their customers. Stupid little plug.
 

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My bike usually takes 2 starts on cold starts when i do it, i usually park in gear just to be in the habit for parking on inclines... My bike seems fine, i don't think its an issue, it sometimes yanks a little too, just a cold start i believe, have to five bike a moment to pull up some fluids. Unless it does it repeatedly in a single start i dont see a problem.. But i'm no expert so if you wanna ask dealer..
 

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I'm with the poster(s) who prefer to start the bike in neutral: I don't like the little tug it gives, even with the clutch fully squeezed and I don't like the added strain it puts on the starter motor. The trade-off, of course, is that big, nasty clunk you get dropping it into first, but that's a a trade I'm willing to make. It's easier to replace clutch plates than starter motors.
 

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I also start the bike whilst in gear, mostly to avoid the heavy clunk dropping into 1st.
I pull the clutch in and rock back and forth to get oil swirling before starting up though, the bike doesn't lurch anymore, just a gentle pull.
As others have mentioned, adjusting the clutch cable to remove all slack really helped overall.
 

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Pull the clutch and roll her back and forth before starting to break the plates loose. It will minimize, if not eliminate, the clunk...


I'm with the poster(s) who prefer to start the bike in neutral: I don't like the little tug it gives, even with the clutch fully squeezed and I don't like the added strain it puts on the starter motor. The trade-off, of course, is that big, nasty clunk you get dropping it into first, but that's a a trade I'm willing to make. It's easier to replace clutch plates than starter motors.
 

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Just curious.. All of you that worry about the clunk, do you leave it in gear at stoplights, or any other situation that you are stopped for a minute or so?

** the clunk is due to the main shaft of the transmission spinning. When you are in neutral with the clutch released the clutch is engaged and spinning the main shaft, there are just no gears engaged. The clunk is from the dog ears on the gear stack engaging and the lurch is from the momentum of the spinning shaft being transferred.
A side note.. The friction on the clutch plates when the clutch is pulled in is still strong enough to spin the main shaft when in neutral. This is why the back tire will turn when it is up on a paddock stand in neutral.
 
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