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Purchased a used 2018 MT09 - Suspension seems super soft, need advice on adjustment + bike is running cold.

4331 Views 75 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  MT09 2014 Sweden
Hey y'all, I just purchased a used 2018 MT09 with 9k on the odo. Bike looks to be taken care of very well. I'm not sure if the previous owner ever adjusted the suspension settings but wow....first bump I hit I felt like I was riding a pogo stick down the street. Sooo soft...and I'm a light 150lb rider! Any advice/links to a how-to for adjusting these front forks and rear spring (preload etc) for someone a light as me? (150lbs) Or would it be better to head into a local shop and have the experts help me on this? I don't want to mess anything up.

Also, I noticed that the coolant temp at times will dip down to 167 degrees while cruising! Even after it has been warmed. Seems too cold to me, wouldn't the bike be stuck in closed loop at this temp? For reference, it does get up to 223 (fans come on etc) and the coolant goes between 176 and 223 as it should when warmed but I'm noticing that on colder rides she sits allll the way down at 167!! A tad cold it seems. No idea what coolant/if it's OEM is in there.
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Mine runs like that to. When I got the ecu flashed they lowered the fan to kick in at 90°C. Don't know about the 2nd gen but the first really needs a tune to fix the jerky throttle aswell.

Regarding the suspension I suggest you play with the settings. I still ride stock suspension and for me it depends on several things: winter/Summer; fork oil; seat; handle bars; riding style etc. But to keep it from bouncing to much I need to max out rebound and maybe turn it back a quarter turn.

I think the standard fork springs suit riders 65 to 80kg, so should be fine. The forks behaves different depending on oil viscosity but try with minimum pre load and bring a tool to adjust as you ride. I set the rear two from max pre load and rebound a quarter turn back from max.
Just blasted around town and on the highway now.....I let it get up to 200F + and rode stop and go for quick some time for things to heat up - then when I'm on the straights or the highway she was running way back down at 154-156F! Given the air temp is cold here but man.....154-156F seems way too cold. As long as this is normal though then ok....I just don't want any damage to the engine if indeed this is too cold to be running at (and for extended periods e.g. a long highway rides on a cold day etc). I mean....what temp does the thermo even open at? Never seen a thermo below 165 with most of em opening at 185 so if the bike is running in the 150's non-stop it just seems odd.
I don't understand why this would damage the engine? As long as the lubricants get in to working range it fine. If you ride a lot in city traffic with limited air flow its more damaging to the engine to run to hot than running at 70ish °C at the highway.
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I guess they design engines in different ways depending on the requirements. I'm thinking the airbox design makes it hard for cool air to get into the engine. I did these mods and it feels like the bike runs better when it gets hot. I'm guessing it will be even more noticeable during Summer.
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An engine running too cold suffers from contaminants building up in the oil and forming sludge which can block oil ways. It will also suffer from fuel contamination of the engine oil which will reduce its lubricating properties.
Then engine go bang.
Ok, but shouldn't an engine designed by Yamaha operate in a Window that keep it out of danger - Hi or Low?
This is my question actually......asking if running 154 degrees is normal for the CP3 or not....because 150s...shit even 160s is very cold for just about any engine. I mean for all I know, the previous owner slapped in a lower temp thermostat and filled thebsystem with only water. Which is why I'm asking others if this lower operating temp (while cruising) is what they experience. If it is....then sounds like the CP3 just likes running cooler.
Went for a ride today, ambient temperature around 0°C and engine at 71°C. Last night a trip to the city, got stuck in traffic and engine temp 90°C -fan kicks in. When traffic clears engine temp 70-75°C.
Maybe previous owner used 'engine ice' as Coolant? I use ethylene glycol.
My bike runs a bit cooler after I had it flashed, and I did notice it cools down faster after doing the valves on the exhaust cam.
As long as other owners report the same characteristics, engine or other parts, I accept it as Yamaha.
Been watching different engine/injection cleaners and how they perform on Youtube. The ones I watched measured Carbon build up on the pistons with a small camera. Has anyone had a look at this kind of build up on the cp3-engine?
Sounds like those cleaner products is a remain from the past?
Probably but it's worth using a fuel injector cleaner these days- especially an engine used in short stop/start runs
Any recommendations on injector cleaner? In Sweden STP is the most available in stores. Rislone was recommended to me once.
Except for ease of access. We could probably have had the head off and stripped before you can get to the heaad bolts on a modern engine. Maybe even completed the whole job.
A VW engine took 15 - 20 minutes to remove. Same with a Fiat 500.
Its a good thing reliability has improved on consumer engines. Wouldn't want the engine to be like old Ferrari engines to get some power out of it🤔
I heard somewhere that the mt 09 runs a bit to lean to meet emission regulations. Is this true?
Most engines do - usually at the rpm that emissions and noise are tested, the exact rpm is determined by the engine stroke dimensions.
Look at any power/torque curve of a stock engine and you'll observe the dip in n the graph where weakness comes in as seen in the graphs. View attachment 173279
So this is why they put all the restrictions in the ecu, cant get more power and meet the emissions without destroying the engine?
Flash tuning won't destroy the engine unless the rev limit is raised to an unacceptacle level. All the flash is doing is giving back to the owner what the engine is capable of producing anyway.
I've done a bit of diesel tuning in the past - these are where you get the greatest gains, 30 - 35% in power and torque are not uncommon - all you have to do is make sure the engine is serviced at the correct intervals.
Ok, I meant that you cant maximize engine performance without breaking emission regulations. Wont it damage the engine in the long run if you keep it to lean on the fuel?
No, it's about legal cheating. Map it to pass the noise and emissions protocols. It's arguable that more realistic mapping may be better for engine longevity.
It feels like the engine is less stressed after removing restrictions, also runs smoother.
No, because where they lean it out is under light load conditions, basically when you're just cruising on the highway at small throttle openings and you're not asking much from the engine. When you get on the throttle, it won't run lean. If anything, they tend to run it slightly rich to be on the safe side.
Ok, I'm leaving this ecu-thing to the dynopeople🧐
If an engine is making more power, it is more stressed. But if it remains within design parameters it won't go bang.
True. I was thinking more of the on/off-jerkyness of the first gen.
Does the metall in the frame, swing arm, fork etc. get softer over time? Thinking about old cars and how the look after accidents 😬.
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