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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I thought I would post some notes and advice for anyone who was considering installing the following items:



ProTaper Contour Handlebar - Carmichael (or other bends)
The bar when it arrived seemed a bit long. It could be the lower position of the bar ends relative to the tank, but I cut at the "2" mark on each end of the bar, which took about 1/2in off of either side.

The clutch side of the bar is knurled, which makes pulling the mirror base/clutch lever holder over it impossible. I do NOT recommend trying to pry apart the sides to buy clearance. All this does is deform the collar, scratch the finish, and potentially mess up the fitment of the clutch lever and the bushing. I dropped an extra 10-15 bucks to order a new OEM part.

The bend on these bars is a nice adjustment from stock if you are looking for something a little more aggressive. I am extremely happy with the end result. My only wish is that the stupid logos weren't plastered all over the bar.

Driven D3 or Driven D-Axis Grips/ProTaper Grip Glue
First off, regarding the ProTaper GripGlue. WTF. Who would have thought that 10-20 seconds is enough time to install grips?? I guess if you were good at it, but it doesn't give you any window to slip up.

I got both the D-Axis grips and D3 grips (I put the D-Axis on my FZ-09 and the D3's are for my FZ6). I am very happy with these grips. They are comfortable and look great. Though maybe a little overpriced. FYI, the gold color in the grips doesn't match the forks very well. I had to exchange them for black.

Mad Hornets Adjustable Shorty Levers
These were a breeze to install. No issues. The gold color ALMOST matches the forks. I think it's close enough and looks great.

Related to this installation, there is an electronic switch on the clutch lever held in by one screw.Be careful, when removing I snapped this screw in half. Lots of loctite was used on mine during installation...

Driven D-Axis Bar End Weights
I technically haven't gotten these installed yet. I am part of the way through the project. The opening of the ProTaper handlebar is somewhere in the neighborhood of 13mm. The rubber grommet thing that holds the bar-end in is approx. 16.5mm. I am using a drill and the dremel attachment on my compressor to widen the opening. I am thinking somewhere around 16mm should allow for installation. FYI, these bar end weights do not easily fit in the stock handlebar either.

I also considered the idea of tapping the new handlebar with a M16 tap, this would allow me to use the stock bar end weights. But I don't have that size tap and didn't feel like buying one...
 

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I do believe the word is knurled!

The bar looks great, I've been considering getting something like that (the Carmichael) for a more aggressive stance. I'll keep the info in mind when making my purchases!
 
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Is the turn signal switch really that close to the tank or is it the way the picture just looks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is the turn signal switch really that close to the tank or is it the way the picture just looks?
that's pretty close to full tilt, and my camera angle makes it look closer than it is. It has about 1+ inch of clearance over the tank when fully turned.
 

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You are probably correct. Not a word I use on a regular basis. Haha.
Knurl is correct! Im a machinist so ive actually knurled things haha.

But a few notes to add, for the clutch bracket I was able to open up the ID of the clamp with a dremel enough for it to slide over the knurls and still fit.
The D-Axis bar end weights can be easily installed by carefully trimming the rubber bushing with a pocket knife until the fit snuggly then just tighten them up.
And finally for grip installs GermEx works fantastic! Yes the hand sanitizer stuff lube up the grip and bar good and they just slide right on plenty of time to adjust them you just need to wait about 24 hours for all of the alcohol to evaporate
 

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I just installed mine the other day and I commuted into work today with them for the first time. So far I am really enjoying this awesome $50 upgrade. I mainly commute on the highway for a long distance and I naturally tend to lean forward to reduce drag and wind noise. With the stock bar, my shoulders and lower back would get pretty fatigue doing this for more than 10mins at a time but now with the ProTaper (Contour Carmichael) installed, it doesn't seem I have that issue anymore. Another huge plus with these bars is that the steering response is greatly improved. I can maneuver between cars with very little effort compared to the stock bars and has more of a sport bike feel.

Installation: I originally thought it would take me no more than 30 mins to swap out bars but after finding out about the knurl and the drilled holes for the controls, it ended up being a one and a half hour project for me. I dealt with the knurl by using a file and some painters tape (to protect the bar's finish while I filed down the knurl). After about 10 mins of filing and test fitting, I was able to slide the new bar into the left hand controls with very little effort. The original width of the ProTaper was too wide for my liking (especially when accounting for the OEM end weights). So I ended up cutting them down with a pipe cutter at the #3 mark, which is the same width as the OEM bar. I then tapped the ends so I could use the stock bar ends. By taking my sweet time, I was able to drill the new holes on the bar by using my dial calipers to transfer measurements and the controls are pretty much spot on where they should be. I would definitely recommend this mod to anyone that feels that the original bars are a little to high. FYI, I am 5'10".
 

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I have fitted Aero taper bars and all it took to get the clutch lever assembly over the knurled section was to remove the clamp screw and use a flat screw driver in the slit as a wedge to gently open the diameter enough to slip over.The clamp has enough elasticity to do this without permanent deformation.

I also bought some cheap bar ends and turned them down so they fitted the bore in the bars.I added much longer screws to these - 160mm- and made long spacers out of lead to increase the vibration damping properties of the bar end assembly.
The bar vibration is now smoother than the standard bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea I tried to use a screwdriver like you prescribed but was unable to get it over. I ended up deforming the piece and had to order a new one. Filing down the inside of the new one worked like a charm. More than one way to skin the proverbial cat, I suppose. (what a weird phrase)

The bar ends installed. I used a potato peeler to trim the rubber and squeezed them in. I am probably going to swap them out at some point in favor of some bar end mirrors.
 

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Talking about bars... what are you guys using as far as hand grip?

Not sure here what I should do... I tried to relax my grip as much as I can but the throttle slip away. Might sound funny but almost lile the grip is too small? I had a set of Grab On grip cover here that I ordered years ago and never used, I put them on for a quick test.
 

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Talking about bars... what are you guys using as far as hand grip?

Not sure here what I should do... I tried to relax my grip as much as I can but the throttle slip away. Might sound funny but almost lile the grip is too small? I had a set of Grab On grip cover here that I ordered years ago and never used, I put them on for a quick test.
I forgot what lead me to it but I bought the Pro grip 713 awhile back. I've haven't ridden with any other aftermarket grips before but I am very pleased with the 713. It has a good amount of rubber padding so my hands don't get fatigue as often during long rides compared to stock. It was weird at first when riding with the 713 because the center of the grip is raised but I think it's designed that like so they fit the contours of your palms and the grip on them is excellent.
 

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So, I thought I would post some notes and advice for anyone who was considering installing the following items:



ProTaper Contour Handlebar - Carmichael (or other bends)
The bar when it arrived seemed a bit long. It could be the lower position of the bar ends relative to the tank, but I cut at the "2" mark on each end of the bar, which took about 1/2in off of either side.
Did you use a hacksaw to cut the bars? What do you guys think is the cleanest way to cut each side?
 

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Talking about bars... what are you guys using as far as hand grip?

Not sure here what I should do... I tried to relax my grip as much as I can but the throttle slip away. Might sound funny but almost lile the grip is too small? I had a set of Grab On grip cover here that I ordered years ago and never used, I put them on for a quick test.
I've had ProGgrip 714s on several bikes and never had an issue with them hardening, wearing, etc... One set was on a PC800 for 5 years, no problem. I just carefully cut the ends off with a razor blade once they have been installed so the bar end weights fit okay. They are a little larger in diameter than OEM grips and the gel material serves as a minor vibe dampener. + they are grippy even when riding in the rain.

Progrip 714.jpg
 

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I used a rotary cutting tool with my air compressor.
I'm thinking of cutting 1" off on either side. Do you think that would be too much given the restraints of the controls?
 

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I'm thinking of cutting 1" off on either side. Do you think that would be too much given the restraints of the controls?
One inch off both sides will work fine with the controls and mirrors. No issues. I know because I took off just a bit more than that... I carried mine to a local machine shop to cut, and I had them thread the ends to accept the stock bar ends at the same time.
 

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One inch off both sides will work fine with the controls and mirrors. No issues. I know because I took off just a bit more than that... I carried mine to a local machine shop to cut, and I had them thread the ends to accept the stock bar ends at the same time.
Cool thx rado
 
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