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Discussion Starter #1
Saw these on another forum, you can get them on Amazon etc too:

LED - Lite?N Boltz License Plate Lighting Kits 030301 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance Products

I rarely ride at night anyway, but having a plate light gives the cops one less reason to hassle you. I might make my own eliminator and keep the stock plate light, or use these.



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I usually don't worry about a plate light here in TX. Try to mount it as close to the tail light as possible. The plate has a finish which causes it to almost glow when hit by headlights so whenever a cop is behind it is very well illuminated.
 

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Yeah I now that you said that I can't picture that on the bike. I guess I'll keep looking and following the forum to see what others are finding. Thanks for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Saw these on another forum, you can get them on Amazon etc too:

LED - Lite?N Boltz License Plate Lighting Kits 030301 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance Products

I rarely ride at night anyway, but having a plate light gives the cops one less reason to hassle you. I might make my own eliminator and keep the stock plate light, or use these.
I have used LitNBolts in the past. I ordered and received both of these and will determine which to use after I design a template out of aluminum.

Drag Specialties Universal LED License Plate Light - Black L12-6024BE : Amazon.com : Automotive

Banggood 2 x White LED Motorcycle & Car License Plate Bolt Light : Amazon.com : Automotive
 

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Some bike models we can do ourselves, some you can even use portions of the stock fender and cut and tuck, some a pro kit will have to work. We'll see when we get our hands on them and see what we come up with.
 

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Doug, you said else where you made that out of 1/16 aluminum? How many miles since then? Any metal fatigue etc?
23,000 miles and eleven years. No metal fatigue whatsoever. Permanent. I made one for my wife's R6S Yamaha and used LitNBolts for the plate light. I used camper top padding tape underneath the bracket to reduce vibration and locktighted the bolts. It is going nowhere.
 

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Cool Doug, I hadn't thought of rubber mounting it. I guess my biggest concern is where the signals might flex the sheet aluminum, I ride a lot of rough roads.

I should have asked about your signals while I was at it, I like the clear lens/covers, I see the bulb is yellow, but is it incandescent? If I replace the signals I'd like to use LED.



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I had a lighted plate frame for the eliminator I made for my Er-6n along with the integrated tail light.. I'm thinking with the design of the factory fz-09 tail light (lit outsides) should allow me to convert them to integrated without much hassle.. and as mentioned somewhere else maybe incorporate the front signals into the "air ducts".. have to wait and see i guess..
 

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Cool Doug, I hadn't thought of rubber mounting it. I guess my biggest concern is where the signals might flex the sheet aluminum, I ride a lot of rough roads.

I should have asked about your signals while I was at it, I like the clear lens/covers, I see the bulb is yellow, but is it incandescent? If I replace the signals I'd like to use LED.
I have had those signals forever. They are Lockhart Phillips, which were the first compact signals. My WR250 has WPS flexible signals. Very trick looking.

Wife's Eliminator:

 

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I had a lighted plate frame for the eliminator I made for my Er-6n along with the integrated tail light.. I'm thinking with the design of the factory fz-09 tail light (lit outsides) should allow me to convert them to integrated without much hassle.. and as mentioned somewhere else maybe incorporate the front signals into the "air ducts".. have to wait and see i guess..
Incandescent, you will need a relay in most cases as I did with my Zeta LED handguard signals. You have to realize that I did my mods on the CBR in 2002, the R6S in 2007, which was what was prevalent at the time. I don't switch shit that works out for the sake of doing it. I put the latest stuff on the latest bike. Having four bikes can get crazy expensive with mods. Also, I will probably have a his and hers FZ-09 before long. Multiply suspension, pipes, bars, brake lines, windshields, etc. times 2.
 

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I have had those signals forever. They are Lockhart Phillips, which were the first compact signals. My WR250 has WPS flexible signals. Very trick looking.

Wife's Eliminator:


Just my two cents here, but if you use the bolt lights again cut a slot in the license plate by the bolt holes. That way you can remove the license plate without having to cut the wires. From experience :rolleyes:
 

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this is what i used.. little easier to install then bolt lights..
plate frame.jpg
 

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Just my two cents here, but if you use the bolt lights again cut a slot in the license plate by the bolt holes. That way you can remove the license plate without having to cut the wires. From experience :rolleyes:
Good point. I have rarely taken a plate off of a bike for any reason though. I did wire it with a two, waterproof, quick connect plugs in case I needed to take it off in short order. I wasn't to thrilled about the setup but knew that dismantling it would be rare.
 
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